85Sub4WD

Looking at a picture I have in a Haynes manual, they look similar and interchangeable, but no gurantees.

Forget "the book", my 1985 FSM has complete info for both systems, and the MAF is the same for both, in fact the computer is the same for both non-turbo and turbo cars, there is a difference in grounding of a pin so the computer knows what it is plugged into. It will be a vane - type system b/c it is 1986, so a vane - type MAF will work. The 85 and 86 cars are the same for the turbo system, remember this is a Subaru where almost everything is interchangeable, it will work.

I would probably flush the ENTIRE system out thourghly, including the block (special bolts for that). That is my best recommendation, after that, HG time

problems with water chokes - take WAYYYYY too long to open get stuck easily run rich for above reasons if they break they can flood your engine - literally sometimes never do and cause really crappy power loss you have so much more control with a manual choke I am probably biased because I overhauled an MG Midget with one and had to install a manual choke to get it to pass emissions, and before we did we had problems in all the afforementioned catagories save the choke blowing up (though I saw a junked car where that happened) Graned it was not a Weber carb, but the principle has issues. However you plumb it, make sure that water is flowing at all times, and that it is not governed by the thermostat.

Where are the rear mudflaps on it from? I really like them. Great car, I love seeing EA82 sedans in rally form.

I feel bad noone has said anything yet. My suggestion would be to remove the steering column (plastic part) and see where that gets you, but I don't have expierence with XT's.

water chokes not good - best off with a manual I don't know the flow tho sorry

A leak that bad is making me think oil pump seal (mickey mouse gasket or shaft seal). Clean the engine first tho, because if you are leaking from the oil pump, it would probably be blown back over the engine by the cooling fan.

It should be because '85 and '86 turbo systems are identical, and I know the ecu's for the non-turbo and turbo 1985 soobs are identical. The non-turbo would have to be MPFI from an '85 or an '86, but I think they are.

To be honest, I skipped the Weber and went strait to FI. I really like the performance boost and I don't have to piddle with a carb anymore.

The haynes manual I mentioned earlier has a detailed diagram of the Coasting By-Pass system, basically anything that goes into the intake manifold would need to be blocked.

A real upgrade for all of you who want to stick with inferior carbueration would be to put a Weber on, and some of them come with all the manual choke linkage stock.

Snake Oil. The SPFI system you already have does all of that. As it was mentioned earlier, ignition mods will only get you so far, and Subaru has pretty darn good stock equipment for the ignition system. The injectors on SPFI systems are not like the ones on turbo cars, in fact they cost over $100 a piece because the O-ring mounting system is special. Turbo is the only way to go if you want REAL power, and it can be modded over stock much easier.

I would run some carb cleaner through there. That low rumbling is probably a bad wheel bearing, jack it up and spin each wheel by hand and see if you hear it.

It could also cook your PS fluid, really messing up your rack and/or PS pump.

XT6 alternators are practically bolt-on, and require no electrical work. There really aren't any special distribuitors available, and you have a Crank Angle Sensor anyway, which means that you would have to mess with the computer to get any better performance. The injector for Loyales is specialized, and probably not upgradeable (look at the cost for a new one). I have heard boreing out the throttle body help, but I would be REALLY careful doing that because there are fuel passageways in it. Performance cams are available, but they tend to just move the powerband around. The only other option is converting to turbo, and that is a LOT of work.

I know what you are talking about is the "Coasting By-Pass System", and if ANY components act up on it you have a MAJOR vacuum leak instantly. It was only on the 1980 models. So if it is the coasting by-pass system is acting up, I would dump it alltogether if emissions allow.

Find one in a junkyard, it is the best and most reasonably priced place to get parts for these cars - most things work or they don't. If you are REALLY desperate, I think I have an early EA82T ignition module at home in working condition (got it by accident). I will say I don't know how difficult int'l shipping for it would be, but if it is feasible I could ship it to you. - it looks brand new, though some idiot cut the wires to it, so you would need to use your harness (the distribuitor body is different too).

I lowered it gently the first time to make sure it would clear (I have about 3/4 inch because of the way the hood slopes - but I was worried for a second) - and I removed the plastic spacer that had been used for countless previous batteries. I am at my dorm and my car is at home - I can get you the model, etc. for my battery when I go home on Thursday/Friday if you want it. It never gets below 10 degrees Farenheit here, so something EXTREMELY rugged is not necessary. I think the one I used was for the EA82T, but I have SPFI. Optima Red Tops are nice, if you can afford one

I just had to replace my battery and I put one in with 650CCA I could barely close my hood afterwards, but I need it to last a while, and it was only $10 more than a standard one. I got an Energizer (regular one) from PepBoys. - Come with a nice warrenty and all. My last battery was 7+ years old, and it died about the time my alternator did. (I think my bad alt. probably killed it - it boiled acid all over everything )

If it moves under its own power, drive it until you get a 5 - speed in there. The ECVT was the worst mistake that Subau ever made because it has major reliability issues and performance issues. That is DEFINATELY a dealer-specific part (now find out how much labor costs)

OK, if you pull it off and it turns out to go nowhere, it is ASV, if it does go into the crankcase, it is PCV - related, and it needs to be fixed.

Justy parts are generally very cheap, but the 5-speed 4WD tranny is in-demand so who knows. You will probably need the driveaxle, and rear diff, as well as all the other goodies (clutch and linkage). Other than that have at it!! What/which "brushes" are you refering to? If you need suspension bushings, then the dealer is your only option (or http://www.1stsubaruparts.com - but I don't know how that would work if you are outside the US). If you need starter/alternator brushes then the dealership (or http://www.1stsubaruparts.com ) is still your only real option because most aftermarket stuff is horrible.

Sounds/looks like part of the ASV system. The ASV system (Air Suction Valve) is the same thing as a smog pump for your emissions, except it uses the venturi principle (like a carb) instead of a pump. Forget about it, will make car noisier, but all the more fun If you are a perfectionist, fix it, but really not having it set up right won't hurt anything. Though on further though ... the 1980 cars had a coasting bypass system, which might need to be addressed. I can't tell from the image and descriptons what you have well enough to rule that out.

I've done an oil change in the teens (without windchill) - and that is about as cold as it gets here. I think that should count because I was born in Florida (South Miami - but have lived in NC for over 16 years now)