85Sub4WD

EA82 engines are VERY common, so I would recommend going with an EA82. I will also say that I really like the SPFI system as it is less work than a carb, but it requires more skill to install. The EA82 is also a lot of fun to rev

Shure, I am not exactally sure which year the manual if from, but as it has the EA71, EA81, and EA81T I am sure it is from '83 or '84. There is also an early EJ22 manual there too (I think 1992). Both only have engine info, but that is probably enough for those interested in mods

I know the 1984 EA81 Service manual is in multiple books, I think two (saw it on ebay a while back). I downloaded an EA81 FSM from: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 if you are just interested in engine info, that should be enough. For more info, you will need a full manual.

Probably have the carb/timing/valve adjustment off, or the valves are not sealing properly.

NEVER run 10w-40 unless it is synthetic, then change every 3,000mi Reason - MAJOR gelling issues, though it is spec for certain condition, 10w-40 is a bad oil, I have spent days cleaning the valve train on a car in which someone had used it and it had gelled (old '67 Chevy). I also know of a guy (friend's friend) who owned a Volvo and had a timing belt snap b/c the oil had gelled in it. (yes, he had been running 10w-40) Toyota (lexus) is finding that out the hard way b/c they designed an engine (can't remember which one) in the late '90s that was prone to gelling anyway, and then spec'd 10w-40 for it. Massive recall the result. Solution - run 15w-40 or 15w-50 if you need something heavier than 10w-30, I use one of the 15w's during the summer, and 10w-30 during the winter.

The EA82 engine will not bolt up to an EA71 tranny b/c the EA71 tranny has the starter in the center, and all EA81 (1.8L OHV) and EA82 (1.8L OHC) cars have it off to the left side. That said, if it is dual range it must be off an EA81 car because there was never a dual range for the EA71 and the EA82 cars never had a 4-speed 4WD. I think it should bolt on, but your driveshaft may be different and you will have to install a clutch mechanism (and flywheel). Oh, and you will need the rear differential off the car you get the tranny off of. Hal's Parts and Service ( www.halspartsandservice.com ) (he is in Sparta NC) has a lot of 4WD trannies for EA82 cars that would fit in your car much easier than the older one. The EA81 tranny is not designed for the EA82's power, and as good a tranny as it is, it may not take the strain. All EA82 4WD trannies are 5-speed, and that will give you better highway performance.

I think they resized the picture incorrectly.

I would also bet it is the ignition module. Get one from a junkyard, they're cheap that way.

ditto bushbasher on the MG-thing I restored one once with a neighbor - never again Anyway, yes, it does sound very much like a grounding issue. I would also check all the wires for any loose insulaton or shorts.

The correct terminology is OHC, yes the valves are on top, but to avoid the page-long explination of how the automotive terminology came about, just know that OHV engines have timing gears and/or a timing chain between the cam and crankshaft with lifters, pushrods, and rockers, while OHC engines do not. There are NO pushrods on OHC engines - they have rockers and lash adjusters (not lifters, though similar). The reason OHC engines are not consitered OHV engines is because the OHV term was used to differentiate between the aforementioned setup and the flathead design (like most lawnmower engines have these - valves mounted on the side - also (infrequently) called sidevalve engines). The term OHV came about when the OHV design really began replacing flatheads in the '40s and '50s. A OHC engine cannot have a flathead design, so it is understood that the valves are on top. It is one of those cases where the words Over Head Valve do not simply mean that the valves are on top, but the particular OHV design (so it is consitered technically incorrect to refer to an OHC engine as OHV). If it is OHC, we already know where the valves are.

OHC and it uses a crank angle sensor (engine is an EA82) The crank angle sensor cannot be rebuilt (effectively), go to a junkyard and find one if you think it is bad. You should also get an error code on the FI system if you have a bad CAS.

I am NOT talking about brake fluid, that would definately cause problems, I am talking about brake cleaner, it is in an aerosal can and is rather caustic (use in a VERY well ventalated environment) BTW - I am 90% sure that at least the SPFI cars do not have the burn-off feature. There is no mention of it in the FSM, and I can see no evidence of it on a dirty MAF sensor, so cleaning it is probably a good idea. All-talk is also right about how the MAF sensor works, so keeping it clean is important, but it should not usually require cleaning. I got my MAF out of a junkyard car, the ENTIRE intake, exhaust, and all other systems were soaked in oil (and I was told it had little/no compression when junked), but it was all I could find, and I needed an MAF.

The car I got my MAF off of had slipped a ring, so there was oil EVERYWHERE, but I had no other alternative. (EA82 parts are not common near my home) Yes, brake fluid is VERY nasty stuff, but it brakes down oil effectively and leaves no residue (would cause big problem).

that is unless you pull one off a car that is black with oil - then you clean it !! realizing all of them are well over 10 yrs old, a cleaning would not hurt.

Glad to hear it worked, that Techron stuff is great. Hope it keeps going well for you!

The reason I said that particular Haynes manual is they basically Xeroxed the FSM's wiring diagrams for your car and put them in the manual. Whether or not you have any electrical faults now, a good wiring diagram is worth its weight in gold if you develop any or wish to add accessories.

Um, in the US they were available through '89, unless you want to import a car Actually, can you find Legacy D/R trannies there??? I think many of the board members want them for their EJ22 cars. Also, do your Leone turbos have the factory oil cooler!? I think many board members would also be interested in those. (myself included - if it is within a college student's vast budget )

I have a 1985 Subaru D/R 4WD 5-speed and love it. Dual ranges were produced through 1989, and I have seen two Loyale's with D/R trannies, but they are very, very rare. Get the SPFI system on 1986 and later cars, it is very reliable and fairly powerful (compared to an '84). The only thing with EA82 engines is remembering to replace your T-belt at the specified interval. Snow hadling is great, have been through very deep drifts w/o probs.

Congrads, You will want to get the FSM or the Haynes manual for Subaru 1600 & 1800 1980-1989. The later edition of the book does not cover your car as well, and you will have to pick it up used, but it is fairly detailed.

Actually you probably just cleaned the crap out your exhaust system. It builds up a lot of crap as a city car, so when you hit a really high rpm, boom (well, its silent) you shoot a black charcoal, sooty blob out your tailpipe onto the car behind you. I did that on the front of a brand new white Lexus SUV which was on my tale when I got stuck behind some heap on the expressway and wanted to pass him quickly. Quite a satisfying expierence, but I would not do it often. The reason it feels like it is running better is that you had been building up backpressure due to the crap in the exhaust, and now that the crap is no longer there, our engine can run easier. And no, you did not remove any carbon from your valves. MMO and Techron can do that. (Techron for intake, MMO for exhaust)

Brake fluid is best because it leaves no residue. That's how I cleaned mine!

It probably is that the HH return spring is damaged or the HH has failed. I think a HH prob is more likely, or a bad master cylinder. If he brake caliper had frozen then air would have been sucked in, fluid would not have squirted out at you. It would not have released either. So it is either a bad master cylinder or a bad HH.

There are NO 30A fuses of any sort on ANY '80s Subarus, you are lucky you did not toast the car, or more of the wiring harness. You have found out that you have a problem in the steering column, what may have happened is someone jerry-rigged the electrical system to bypass a problem sometime earlier in the car's life, and it is coming back to haunt you now. At the very least you will have to pull the steering column apart (not a hard job). After that, follow the wiring diagram for the car. There is a complete wiring diagram for the Haynes manual for Subaru 1600 & 1800 1980-1989 (you will have to get it used, because they removed the wiring diagram from the later versions) the isbn is 1 85010 527 8

They are very easy, on EA82's they screw in behind the carbureator into the intake manifold, don't know on an EA81, just look for something that goes into the intake manifold from the valve covers.

Stock Subaru or Puralator DON'T USE FRAM ANYTHING