85Sub4WD

Given your description of the car, it is safe to assume that your shocks are probably not in too good a shape either. Besides EA82 cars *supposedly* (hatch patrol don't kill me) handle better than EA81 cars (a hatch is an EA81). However, I lack enough expierence to compare the two. I would start fixing the rust and the exhaust b/c you need both to be safe on the road. Get some good tires too, so you don't get stuck in the driveway

You seem to have a bad fuel pump or fuel pump control module (I am leaning toward pump). There is no pressure sensor, but there is a revolution sensor/fuel pump control unit located above the driver's side kickpanel. (they usually don't fail) Fuel pumps run as long as the engine is turning over, a fuel return tube eliminates the need for a pressure switch. The pump is located ahead of the right rear tire above a protective plate. For some reason, fuel pumps on carbed soobs do not seem to just "fail", they just start to work intermitently (which is real interesting if you are driving it and it stops and comes back on). I'll bet that's your problem.

Drill out the old bolts and tap/use nuts to install new ones. Sounds like a carb issue to me, but I would triple check all vacuum hoses first. It may be the fuel pump, and I would try replacing that first because its cheaper and easier. (you won't lose much if the old one turns out to be OK) It may be a good idea to dump the Hitachi and go with a Weber, they are more reliable and easier to rebuild (cheaper parts-wise too). Or SPFI Conversion!!!

Shure, just pull the spark plugs and disconnect the coil. Have you already replaced the PCV valve? If you haven't then we are all getting way ahead of ourselves because that solves the problem 99% of the time, especially consitering the mileage on the engine. Just be sure to use an OEM valve.

Case in point - my soob still has its original seals at 145k (all city) and I don't leak (much) it eats less that a quart per 3,000 miles.

Yes, cheap wires can easily cause a misfire. Make sure you are also running OEM style spark plugs and that they are in good shape.

The newer engines are interference head, so if the T-belt goes, it will destroy the engine. That said, follow what Subaru recommends, and double-check with your owner's manual - don't let a 3rd party's mistake cost you a broken T-belt.

I forgot about kerosene, I used it to clean the valve assembly on a Chevy v-8 once, works great for oil gelling deposits (and its cheap).

The euro turbos also had an oil cooler - they were a much nicer package overall. Realizing that, you might have something that is 170hp stock in Finland, but we in the US never got it.

When the stone fell, it scarred all the pulleys and got jammed in the vicinity of the oil pump (so it was still there). I don't know if it was a freak ocurance, or if it is a real possibility, but I personally would not take the risk as I use my soob as a daily driver. Really, it does not take long to install/remove the covers, the hard part is getting the crank pulley bolt off. (and it really isn't that hard if you put a screwdriver in to lock the flywheel. Other than that, it is pretty straitfoward and easy. I doubt if is really even necessary for the radiator to be removed (especially if you have a good angle on the wrench), though it does add space.

The cheapo ones (haynes and such) cost about $16 and can be found at your corner auto parts shop or bookstore. For a FSM watch ebay and it will show up eventually - probably about $50-$60. Direct from Subaru is about $200 if they have any available.

I can't recall off the top of my head, but it was recently posted/replied to in another thread.

my bad, thought the XT6 debued in 1990 (still nowhere near 170hp stock). I don't know why but I seem to overlook them, which is sad (and stupid) because they are such a neat car. I guess it is because the wagons and sedans are so common. A turbo XT6 engine would be fun wouldn't it :cool: (yes you would have to make it, and EA82T pistons will fit) or even better, a turbo SVX (EJ22T pistons will fit that - better beef up the tranny and its not '80s)

75w-90 is spec for the D/R trannies in all conditions, so you are probably going to improve it

I second that. I have almost every publication for my Soob, and NONE of them are worth their weight in dirt save the FSM, for SMALL things, yes Haynes aren't too bad (Chilton's sucks), but for MAJOR issues or mods, a FSM is the only way to go.

check fuses and the haynes manual (don't forget the fusible links under the hood)

I would not pitch the plastic covers, as ANYTHING (particularly a small stone or bit of gravel) that could get on the teeth of the timing belt could cause it to snap, and leave you cursing by the side of the road. (I have seen this happen to a car before) The covers are there to prevent that. That said, you could punch some *small* holes in it and vent the T-belt that way. Better still, fix the leaks.

All 1985 wagons, sedans, and other cars except Brat and Hatchback use the EA82 engine. I have a 1985 wagon and it is an EA82.

OK, the 1600 is probably a good idea, and you will definately want it if you put the A/C system back together. (as long as the compressor is not enganged, it won't pull the engine down) A/C would also be a neat little extra.

Synthetic gear oil is better, and I would use it (like Mobil 1 75w-90) but follow the specs in your owner's manual first and foremost.

Soob handeling, and the fact it is a Subaru. The control layout is VERY easy in these cars too, no searching for any button hidden behind something.

OK, I would probably talk him down a bit anyway, especially since there is rust on it. Overall it does sound like a good car, and you will love the 4WD when it snows. Even if you can't get the price down, it is still a good car and a fairly good deal.

Congrads on getting it running properly One of the reasons I like soobs so much is how easy they are to work on. Have fun with it

OK, none of us in the states got a twin weber, so we don't know for sure. BUT, I think what you are describing sounds like a vacuum problem (check your hoses). The wire looks like the ground wire for the condensor on the distribuitor, should go to a ground somewhere. If you ground it and blow a fuse, then I was wrong Hope this helps! It would probably help to get a FSM sometime in the future, b/c I think it will get harder to find info on them.

I usually keep the tach between 3 & 4 thousand rpms when accelerating and 2 to 3 when cruising. (Sorry, it's a DL w/o tach) OK, you are a little early with your shifts, probably 15-20mph for 2nd, 35-40mph for 3rd, 45-50mph for 4th and 50-55mph for 5th. Shift into 3rd for cruising at 35mph, 4th for 45 mph, and 5th for 55+mph (cruising at 55 mph is hard on hills b/c you end up downshifting into 4th a lot). A 4WD GL is much more impressive than a 2WD DL, so if you want to be impressed, that is more of the car to get in the future (has more luxuries). BTW your owner's manual has the proper shift points in it, though I think they are a little high (rpm wise)