85Sub4WD

Ahh, I didn't know about that engine. Too new for me Thanks

I'm sorry , I completely understand. Check with CarQuest, NAPA, and even check with Weber before you rule out a carb rebuild. I got a kit from CarQuest for $30 for my Hitachi. I feel more like it is the carb than the fuel pump, because the carb is supposed to retain fuel in it for startup in the bowl. Anyway, best luck!

By 4-cam, I assume you can take a EJ25 head and put it on an EJ22 engine? Would it be interference? I LIKE the car.

With what I saw in the diagram - the oil cooler oil diverter acted as a screw-on spacer between the filter and pump, with lines going to the cooler. As I said, I do not know how many came with that stock, but I know it was on some.

Legacy and Loyale parts are non-interchangeable. Most Legacy and Impreza parts are interchangeable. All '80s "L" cars with an EA82 engine and all Loyale parts are interchangeable as long as it is of the same type. I'd fix the Hatchback first, it will be MUCH cheaper to do, and it is a good car. Wait until you find a good tranny in the junkyard at a good price before you tackle the Legacy.

Snowman - You are *very* interested in keeping your engine clean aren't you. I was also thinking about putting an oil cooler on mine. I know that at least some turbos had them from the factory, but I don't know which ones or if they all had them. The nice thing is that the factory ones have a thermostat on them to prevent over-stressing of the oil pump due to pumping cold oil. I like the idea of a larger oil filter, that way I don't have to worry about flow through a PureOne Puralator filter (my fav). I would be running Mobil 1, but for financial reasons I run Castrol Synthetic Blend. I strongly discourage anyone from running 10w-40 the oil has some inherent gelling issues (this info comes from a recently retired Mobil Oil employee) Just an FYI.

Fuel pump would not have much to do with startup, but given your miles, you will be replacing one soon anyway, and if it is REALLY acting up I could kinda see it. I seriously doubt a blown headgasket; in all cases I know of the compression was VERY low (under 100psi) and the engine was eating large quantities of oil/coolant/both. I will admit that there is a lot more variation than I would expect, probably worn rings, but nothing fatal. Also if you had compression issues starting would be accompanied by a plume of smoke of some sort. I think a new fuel pump/filters (toss old ones) and a carb rebuild should undoubtedly solve the problem. Also, you should have NO MORE THAN one fuel filter, and that filter should be AFTER the fuel pump, and before the carb. I looked at the Haynes manual's representation of the carb and it did not look bad at all, from the rebuild standpoint, should be very doable for a novice. Good Luck P.S. you can check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge to verify that it is the fuel pump.

One last thing to check would be the hoses associated with the charcoal canister. (I forgot about them!) I skipped the Weber and went for SPFI. It has much more potential to boost power than a Weber, and it is a comporable price for parts. It is just a lot more work and requires some skill. Snowman wrote a manual about how to do the conversion, and it is posted somewhere in the repair manual section. If you cannot convert to SPFI, then the Weber is still a MUCH better option than the Hitachi, only concern being if it would pass emissions.

Unless you have a low idle RPM, the SPFI system should be fine. Sometimes the blowers "clog up" with various sorts of leafy crap (like pine needles) and the inner ductwork's insulation. This will cause the motor to rotate slower than it should, heat up, and demand more power. I would suggest pulling the motor and cleaning the "cage" (the actual fan blades) on it. That *should* fix your problem. However, if you got your alt. from a discount auto store (pepboys/advance/autozone), they have quality issues with their rebuilt stuff, so your alt. could still have an issue. I'd also check wiring.

Check the fuel lines (from tank and return) under the hood, the ones on the left side of the car ahead of the rear tire, and the fuel pump area; if it is not leaking at any of those places, it is the carb

We had an identical problem on my 1985 Soob wagon, it took a new fuel pump to solve the problem. I am 99% shure that should solve your problem, the other 1% is the fuel pump control unit/relay (I am not sure which one yours has). Look in the Haynes/Chilton's (Haynes preferably) manual for it if you don't have an FSM (Factory Service Manual - hard to find for something that old, but worth their weight in gold). On mine there is (was) a fuel pump control box under the driver's side kickpanel. Check the fuses too!!

I know that "knock off" AKA advance/pepboys/autozone wires are BAD BAD BAD. may be a coil/sparkplug problem? If the rebuild kit is not expensive, it may not be a bad idea to go ahead and rebuild the carb. Beyond that, I don't know.

Thanks for all the info. I currently have Goodyear Club 185-70R13 on all wheels. My wet traction is horrible, and my dry traction is very good. At the time we bought them, they were all that Goodyear had available (we were using exclusively Goodyear tires). I would like to stick with Goodyears for several reasons, so I may try the Ultragrips next time I have to replace them. I need to drive in all weather conditions, but I am most concerned about wet weather because those are the times with reduced visibility when a quick stop or turn would be critical.

It's beautiful. I am very amazed at the lack of rust. It is hard to find soobs even from the '80s without a good deal of rust. I sincerely hope you can get it running. How about a Weber conversion? I think the weakest point on carbed soobs is the Hitachi carb (or do you have something different)? I assume you have breaker points, it might be a good idea to convert to electronic ignition by using a 1984? EA81 disty (one which just has the two wires coming out of it). Good Luck!! After the rally - try to get the A/C working!!!

Is it Carbed or FI? If it is carbed may be choke issues, if FI may be a bad temp/O2/MAF sensor - try pulling codes. I think the coil is the most likely problem though.

I actually have mine set up so that it runs all the time - I don't know what is causing your problem because my car doesn't have it at all. I can have my cooling fan on, headlights on, and A/C blower at max without draining anything. I wonder if the fan is pulling too much power, but not enough to blow the fuse.

All Soobs made durring and after 1983 have an internal voltage regulator. It may be an issue with the connector (corrosion or something of that sort). Check the wiring harness and make sure that you actually are putting out proper voltage. I do not know what you are seeing - maybe an internal diagram of the alternator? Don't buy a cheap rebuilt one from AutoZone/PepBoys/Advance they tend to undervolt under most conditions and are generally not reliable. Mine went out and started shooting 16+V through the system. When I put an alternator w/ 260K on it from an EA81 car in my car to get home, I started generating proper voltage even at idle. A local rebuilder with a good reputation should do a good job, and just make sure genuine Subaru parts are used. I noticed you are in NC - there is a guy in Greensbourgh that was recommended to me - but I can't remember his name!!

There are no "grease" points. If it squeaks/bumps/grinds replace it. However, you won't have to do that often. However it is wise to lube the door hinges and mechanism. I think you will see where some white grease should go without any problem, but other than that, enjoy!

Hello Everyone, I keep having traction issues with the tires that are presently on my car in all conditions (yes they have ample tread and are properly inflated), I was wondering what everybody's favorite road tire is for the EA82 wagon. I know they are an "oddball" size, but I would like to know what my options are. I may swap mine out sometime soon (once I wear them out). Thanks

I think PS fluid is Dexron II ATF in these cars, so yes PS fluid is ATF, but check your manual to be sure. I also don't know if newer versions of ATF are compatible. My guess otherwise would be that you have a bad rack. Usually pumps work fine or scream beyond belief. BTW - check your tie rod ends and steering universal joint for probs too Good Luck!

I haven't messed much with an MPFI car - so I don't know them, but I will say I don't see any more bolts in the manual. I recently removed the intake on mine and it did take a good amount of coaxing My bet would be that that bolt that broke off is rusted to the intake manifold. This is a REALLY crazy idea - but if you have enough space - you might try to remove the head AND the manifold at the same time.

I know there are issues with messing with the EGR system (don't do it). Actually, if everything is tuned correctly, then there is really not much more you can do to increase performance (I don't know why you would want to, you should have sufficent power). Other than that, go MPFI or Turbo .. but that is a LOT of work.

Did you undo the EGR tube? Beyond that I THINK there are just the 6 bolts.

umm - unless we know something about it, we cannot give an answer. If it is an EA82 car then any junkyard radio out of an EA82 car will plug in (including a digital one from the GL-10 and turbo cars - have to run a wire for memory) It is VERY easy to replace them, just pull off the plastic surround and undo the screws (without dropping them!). Adding a cassette is very easy too. Aftermarket is far more difficult, and I do not know what you do there.

monstaru - OK, the only ones I had seen like what you were talking about, but it cut of the ENTIRE system - the ad was in reference to MG's so it was probably not a bad idea!! After all they are wired by Lucas Electric - prince of light I restored an MG Midget once - wasted time - NEVER AGAIN!!!!!