85Sub4WD

I have the 1985 FSM (only diff is SPFI added in '86) and is is quite possible to preserve all of your ammenities and still have the EJ22. You do NOT need to keep the EA82T computer to keep your Digi-Dash and everything else, just keep your sensors for fuel level, oil pressure, and other stuff that connects to the digi-dash. Use the Tach output from the EJ22 ECU to run your tach. If you want I will see if I can photocopy some of the wiring diagrams for you, but I am limited in my means and there are many diagrams to copy. Another thing is that my FSM is for a 1985, if anyone has a 1986 FSM it would be a lot more accurate. Does anybody know how thick the adaptor plate needs to be? I'd love to do the conversion myself, but for $ reasons I would have to mod the flywheel and make the adaptor plate myself. - I can get a junk EJ22 or EJ18 engine in a heatbeat for a very decent price. (The wiring harness would be more difficult) BTW - Does anyone know when the EJ22 got the 2nd VSS in the tranny and the presurized fuel tank??

The reason I did an SPFI conversion is that my parts cost was $160 and installing it was far less aggrivating than rebuilding the Hitachi. I tried at LEAST 5 times and could not get the Hitachi right. Not that I don't have carb expierence, I've done Webers and Holleys with no problem at all and countless lawnmower carbs, but I couldn't get a blasted Hitachi to work!!!!

I made aluminium plates that bolt onto the cylinder head where the ASV tube enters it, worked great. Repairing/replacing the ASV's will also eliminate the problem (though it is hard to find good ASV's in a junkyard).

Struts, !!balljoints!!, tie-rod ends, power steering system. I would not recommend driving it until it is fixed. You can check balljoints yourself, jack the front end up so that the front wheels are off the ground. Check for slack in the front wheels - this is best done by engaging the steering lock and then pushing in, pulling out, pushing up (gently), pulling down (gently), pushing foward, and pushing back. Do this on each wheel. If any slack is noticed, then locate the source and replace part involved. I would bet that it is the balljoints, because your symptoms are textbook. Bad shocks are felt, but not usually through steering. However, it could also be the tie-rod ends (connect steering rack to front knuckles), because they do affect steering or the front suspension bushings. Usually the neighborhood can hear them by the time they have THAT much slack in them though. Good luck

The problem with that is that it would kill the power to the computer, clock, and radio memory. You do want to "wire" something in, and there are a zillion ways to do it. I like the fuel pump idea, but I would install a double-throw switch with one side being between the relay and the computer on an FI engine and the other side cutting off power to the coil. That way, it doesn't spark or flood if someone tries to steal it (if you just cut off the fuel pump, it will chug for a few seconds). I am an Electrical Engineering student, so leave it to me to find the most complicated (though thorough) solution

Weber DGEV's are really common and easy to fix I have noticed that Carb. prices have gone through the roof, a rebuilt Hitachi for an EA82 is well over $250 everywhere I checked, so I converted to SPFI when my carb died. Rebuild kits are pretty cheap, especially for something as common as a Weber - if you can handle a zillion small objects - it is best $-wise if you find one and do it yourself. Webers are very easy to rebuild too. I have no idea how much an adaptor costs, so I can't say how much the conversion would cost overall.

MPFI 85-86 ALL ECU's (turbo and non, cal and non) are the same they have black connectors - different grounding on the wiring harness desigates turbo/non mt/at and cal/49 state SPFI 86-94 ALL ECU's are interchangeable period they have yellow connectors - however some early ones had error issues (I know 1986 ones are in the family) with the CAS and other stuff, newer is better try to find a late MECF-## code, I am running one that is MECF-22 !!Just wanted to clear that up!! 1987 and later MPFI ECU's are probably different b/c the FI system is different, but beyond that I don't know I haven't messed with anything that new Just find one in the junkyard, it's much cheaper and ECU's usually work or don't - there is not much grey space there

It is all about size and flow. The Carter Weber is VERY small for the engine. The Hitachi is larger, but requires a fair amount of maitenece, and is very difficult to rebuild (speaking from expierence). The Weber DGV is very reliable, gives you a performance boost, and it is easier to find replacements, and it is more efficent if jetted properly (custom work). The Weber is very easy to rebuild too. My family had one on a car years ago that I worked on, and I really like it. Mudboat - Why were you quotes so much? Find a list of cars that had them, get the carb from the junkyard and rebuild it. Webers are very easy to rebuild. By the way - DGV - manual choke DGEV - electric choke Other than that, I don't know what the letters stand for. pick your poison - they each have their advantages but I would not stick with the Carter Weber because it is way too small for the engine.

Just out of curiosity, why do you want to change the plugs on a brand-new car under factory warrenty? Get the dealership to do it!! I can gurantee you that most any aftermarket plug will not give you stock performance in these cars. A number of people have wasted money on bosch platnums and similar, just to go back to good 'ol NGK. Also, newer spark plugs in newer cars tend to last a LONG time - so long I don't know if there is a specified replacement interval on some cars. If you are having a prob. - go to the dealership!! Just to let you know .... Sorry, I have not worked on anything newer than Loyale-era, so I can't give you any more advice on how to extract them. Be glad it is not a Dodge Caravan or relative.

The Subaru stock manifold gaskets on mine are dark brown and waxy (or maybe that is a coating?). I don't know the reason for the difference.

Check the repair manual - it has a complete listing of codes

Are you sure you are at TDC on #1? where are you checking your spark? from the coil or from a spark plug wire? unless you rebuilt your disty, everything should work. If you are 180-degrees off and you are checking a sprark plug wire with a timing light you will not get a pulse. As you have done the heads, it might be a good idea to convert to SPFI and be done with the carb system in the future. I am sorry but I cannot remember what the continuities should be, but if you did not mess with the disty, it should still be good

The I/P individual components and all come apart REAL easy; just pull your I/P and speedo and spray the working part w/ WD-40 or a silicone spray. Then it should work just like new. (unless the return spring is broken). And yes, marking the tach w/ speeds in difft gears works - but ONLY with a manual, automatics have a Torque Converter that allows some slack.

I guess under snowy conditions there is enough slippage to prevent them from eating belts as fast as otherwise, and Snowman is right, they do have their uses. The main problem in a car is that they have to deal with much more jarring than they would on other surfaces, hence why they break easier. ECVT's are good for efficentcy, but not power or reliability. Manual gears are best for that 99% of the time (though with a very good oil cooler normal automatics are pretty rugged). I do not doubt that they will be beneficial in the future, but I would like to see their reliability improve first. Does anyone know if the Justy was the first ECVT in the US? I think it may be.

Subarus usually recommend plus or premium anyway (I know this for EA82 and later engines). You should be fine as long as you fill the tank all the way each time you fill it and have a good gas cap. I really don't know how the ethanol would affect the fuel system.

There should have been enough power to do both, BUT there are zillions of different timing lights on the market and some might be more sensitive to the power drop than others. I have used the trick a number of times with my car and the timing light. Another approach is that you can also get a little device that goes between the wire and the spark plug that checks for ignition, if that light does not light, then you definately have a spark problem.

Dual alternators are doable if you sacrifice your A/C certain chevy alternators fit up to about 100 watt but they require mod. Most popular route is an xt6 alt which puts out 90A.

A chain could DEFINATELY not be substituted for a belt in the ECVT "slippage" is one of the operating principals of the tranny. Some newer hondas/toyotas and such have them, but I don't like the ECVT platform because it puts a LOT of stress on one little belt, and expects it to last. Fabricating something better would be EXTREMELY expensive because it would have to match the EXACT dimensions of the old belt, which is steel to begin with. Not only that but the new belt would have to have a rubber-band like characteristic to it to accomidate the changing pully sizes (that is one characteristic that is exclusive to ECVT belts.) You really are best off with the 5-speed, besides manuals generally take abuse better than automatics, just get a good clutch and try to find someone who could re-gear it if necessary (that would be REALLY expensive too). Realize with that light a car, if you strip it a bit, that getting off the base line with a turbo won't be a prob. You will have ample power to move the car. Great job guys - now for the ultimate go-kart, he, he, he, ... If the engine was mounted in the rear of a go-kart, could the diff in the tranny be swapped with a lsd? Just thinking ...

There was a 1980 Ski Wagon on ebay recently. It was amazing, somehow it still had its original decals, most in good shape. Did have some rocker pannel rust though.

yeah, they do definately watch for them. I had a "friend" whose father was a COP and they are definately checking stuff like that ALL the time. By the way - the friend was arrested for wire fraud - bit ironic.

The easiest way to disable it in your case would be to snip the wire comming out of the computer or remove the bulb. I would suggest removing the bulb, because it is easier to undo when (and if) you get a new computer. I do not know off the top of my head what color the wire is, but it will be in your FSM/Haynes manual. In my case I have to run a wire from the computer to the CEL because I added the FI system on.

According to the website it was nitrous - as in the highly-combustable NO2 that is injected into the engines, not N2 which makes up most of the air we breathe, and I do see your point. You are right, liquid nitrogen would work better than water if it was applied to the intercooler in its liquid form, but they were using nitrous oxide - which would make the hindenburg look like a candle if there was a spark under the hood. Nitrogen is inert (not flammable), and would work well. Figuring out how to deliver liquid nitrogen would be the hard part, and your passageways in the intercooler could ice up.

AWESOME, just use the 5-speed 4WD version. Hey, forget the car and put that suker on a go-kart. Scare a few neighborhood kids Hey - how would you lower the CR? and while you're at it add an intercooler - you got the space.

Depends on where you are, in NC you can get a 30-day plate from a "auto dealer" that lasts you (you guessed it) 30-days. I don't think they are good in any other states too. I know in FL you can get a temp. plate for a dealer for different lengths of time, but I don't know the limit. - For the hastle vs. getting pulled over and in BIG trouble, just get the temp. plate.

Same actually applies for at least some EA82 cars. My car has an "ECS" light though as it's factory carbed 4WD it did not have anything to light it up, and I have not yet connected it to the SPFI system.