85Sub4WD

the tranny usually lasts indefinately in these cars - particularly if you change the oil when you are supposed to (75w90, pref Mobil 1) - unfortunetly yours is 2WD, so you are missing out on the Subaru 4WD expierence the engine is probably orig too - I have personally seen them go over 300k without a problem - Subarus are EXTREMELY rugged cars - the head gasket & oil seals are the only things that may be close to failure - check the T-belt too, that can leave you stranded, though it is not an interference head, so if you do break it you won't damage the engine internals - the only way you can really blow a head gasket on a nonturbo is to really overheat it - these cars do not like being overheated if you do the T-belt, you can also easily reseal/replace the oil pump, which should solve your ticking issue btw - there is a brat, don't know if they are a board member or not, who has over 500k on the orig drivetrain - only has done a couple HG's

I still don't see that the issue is closed - O-ringing and copper gaskets were never consitered/installed, and while the installation of copper HG's is a real PITA, they have prooven their reliability/ruggedness in many other applications and sets cost as little as $50 a side - and even doing a simple re-routing of the T-charger coolant hoses will probably accomplish a great deal because it will keep #3 from getting cooked when the T-charger heats up, which seems to be the #1 reason the EA82T HG's fail in the first place I still doubt that the EA platform has really been pushed to its limits; nobody has killed a bottom end by too much HP, and notbody has grenaded a head on an EA82, or even suffered streached head bolts; so many other possibilities too ....

you would have to completely tear the tranny apart to the stub back in - it is attached with a C-clip in the front diff swap the tranny

I have never expierenced this personally, but I have heard the the track for the throttle sensor (potientiometer-like circuit) gets worn with time, and can wear so that it has a "flat spot" on it - I would try setting up a JY throttle position sensor and see if you notice a difference - there is a specific proceedure in the FSM/other manuals on how to set it up properly (clearences & such) the throttle cable is on the passenger side, on the throttle body - it should be easy to spot with the spare tire out good luck

sorry to hear about your loss - was it a side or rear impact?? frontals aren't too bad to repair if the radiator support is somewhat intact - I nearly lost my soob when someone pulled out going the wrong way in front of my mom - my mom was fine, but it tore the other car to pieces (literally) - the other woman was ok, but she had a concussion you now have a chance to go for a dual-range 4WD - the D/R 4WD with SPFI is a great combination, I highly recommend it

double check the axles - I know the front axles on the 85' MY turbo automatic were 23 spline, the MT tho are 25 spline - you can't just count the bands on the outside of the axle as there were three-band 23 and 25 spline axles the rest looks correct

the dealership in Raleigh caught my car on fire ~8 years ago by pouring oil down the preheat tube (my car hasn't seen a dealer since then) - I went back there recently to request the TSB's for my car, and they said they never kept the TSB's, and refered me to the head mechanic in case he remembered them - their head mechanic is now the same guy who poured oil down the preheat tube

i wonder if one could install a SPFI throttle body on a setup with MPFI N/A heads, with a MPFI turbo/early MPFI NA intake manifold (not spyder), and MPFI NA cams (pref later, 87+ ones) it would probably make more sense to go the whole MPFI N/A route, but SPFI computers, parts and such are much easier to find That would DRAMATICALLY improve flow into the engine, because you have two ports per head (one per cylinder), and the potiential for porting it further is greater too - of course, you would have to block off the fuel injector places, but I do see potiential there, if the SPFI throttle body would fit - the coolant sensor would also be an issue, but that would be easy to resolve hmmm.....

look in the second section of the EA82 FSM at this site (warning, it is big): http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 your car is a SPFI car, and the troubleshooting info in the FSM should give you all the info you need to know, it even has troubleshooting tables first check gas for delivery, and that it is decent stuff - T-belts may be broken, not hard to install, and as it is a non-interference engine, nothing gets damaged when they break - the belts themselves tend to be pretty cheap too - they have a funky install proceedure, I think it is in the repair manual section of this website, and in the FSM these are robust little cars, and it should do fine with whatever you throw at it, especially if it is 4WD

The 2WD tranny will fit, but you will have to remove the rear driveshaft for it to fit - IE, you lose 4WD; but the tranny will fit - the difference between the 2WD and 4WD trannies is the presence, or lack of the rear drive output - the 2WD tranny is also smaller and lighter as it does not have the 4WD mechanism in it

actually, if you want the pinout for the ECU to find which wire goes to the VSS, you can look through the 2nd part of the EA82 manual here: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 it is a large file, so it will take a while - the SPFI system is IDENTICAL to yours, though it is a 1989 MY manual good luck

It should - I know all 80's ones had a magnetic reed switch for the VSS in the instrument cluster; all 85+ cars, with digital or analog dash had the VSS output from the cluster - I think the legacies/later had another one in the tranny, but as I have seen the dealer add-on cruise installed on Loyales, I would assume they have the dash VSS. NEVER MIND - I KNOW your car has a VSS, because it is Fuel Injected, and ALL SPFI cars (IE Loyale) have a VSS input for the computer.

they are in the speedo in the instrument cluster - it's a little reed switch that runs off the magnets on the speedo drive - ALL GL DASHES 85+ HAVE A VSS!!! they are for the cruise control dealer-installed option - I think DL's even had them, but I am not sure you may need to take the back circuit board off the I/P to find the pinout, but you should find the reed switch there without a problem - I had to hook the VSS up when I converted mine to SPFI, and I have my original 1985 I/P - it will also give nasty codes if you don't get the VSS pinout right, so check the wires

The distributor rotor/camshaft turns with the engine, once for every two engine revolutions - that is a fundamental nature of ALL four-stroke engines - so you need to have the rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire when you are on the compression stroke - remove #1 plug, and rotate the engine (by hand), holding your thumb over the hole for the #1 plug at some point you will feel a great deal of pressure trying to force its way out, watch the timing mark, and when it hits Top Dead Center (TDC) on that revolution stop - check that the disty rotor is pointing to #1 plug - note - you will pass the TDC mark on the exhaust stroke as well, so don't worry if you don't feel the pressure the first time you turn the engine over ONCE AGAIN, please check the FSM at this link, it details the official subaru troubleshooting proceedure for a no-start condition an official subaru technician would use: http://ww2.finleyweb.net:9394/default.asp?id=142 this is the best resource you have to get the car going - it also goes into a detail about how the FI system works, so you can understand it

so am I, but in a ~20 year old car, 130-135 isn't too bad - and the consistancy is the big giveaway to a headgaset problem - SPFI's have a 9.5:1 CR, MPFI 85-86 have a 9:1 CR, MPFI 87+ have a 9.5:1 CR (assuming all are NA - MPFI turbos have a 7.7:1 CR) all MPFI 87+ distys, and all SPFI distys are the SAME - there was a slight change in the connector style somewhere along the line, but they will still interchange be sure that your "cheap" fuel filter is rated for FI pressure - otherwise it may burst and cause a BIG FIRE I have seen several cars in the JY for that reason - fuel filters are NECESSARY to protect the fuel injector from getting clogged/stuck open - I am starting to think you have an ECU problem too, but I am not sure just follow the troubleshooting tables in the above link, and you should pinpoint your problem fairly quickly

GL-10 rears are supposed to be 16 mil diameter, XT6 has 20 mil diameter rears if it is 4WD (smaller for 2WD cars - think it is 16 or 18) swaybar difficulty has everything to do with how new/tight the swaybar bushings are - and that they are the correct size

your compression is great the intake boot is the thing that says "Subaru FI" on it - the boot MUST be in place and connected for the engine to run - as you seem to have an abundance of gas, I doubt pouring more down the throttle body will help you - I am starting to think you have a MAF (mass air flow) sensor issue, or a coolant sensor issue, as a failure in either will give you spark and fuel, but make it VERY difficult to start - a throttle position sensor issue could also be the cause the problem may or may not throw trouble codes check here and look in the "part 2" of the EA82 FSM for the "official" subrau troubleshooting proceedure for the FI system: http://ww2.finleyweb.net:9394/default.asp?id=142 good luck

to extend the life of your engine, you will first want to start running a high-quality synthetic oil - probably 20w40 or 20w50 - change it frequently too, my preferred oils are Castrol and Mobil 1 the engine block design is quite good actually (the same block/engine is used in some custom aeroplanes, in stock turbo form) - cylinder walls are consiterably thicker than most other cars of that era, and the block is aluminum alloy, not strait aluminum (that simply wouldn't work due to aluminum's thermal expansion rate) - the problem is that the turbo takes all its coolant/oil from the #3 cylinder instead of from a centralized point, like later turbo soobs - it might be good if you could plumb the coolant into the heater circuit instead of the #3 cylinder NEVER OVERHEAT THE ENGINE - if the cooling system dies, so does your engine - because of the afforementioned coolant flow issue, the headgaskets will blow due to the excessive heat on #3 in very short order - HG's are the biggest problems on these engines intercooler would be good for the engine - FI pressure & all is a nonissue if you injectors/FI system is stock (intercooler won't make a difference in the FI system) - and don't hit the fuel cutoff point (the overboost protection system) - a good idea would be to idle the engine ~30 seconds or more before cutting it off to allow the turbo to cool down and prevent "coking" of the oil in the turbocharger - subaru actually recommends this in their owner's manual BOV is an OK idea, just make sure it vents to the intake duct between the MAF and turbo intake rather than the atmosphere - sometimes it does work venting to the atmosphere, but usually it will confuses the computer and make it go super rich and stumble... besides, it is sloppy to vent it to the atmosphere as the intake is supposed to be closed after the MAF - BOV's protect the turbo, when the throttle is released quickly, not the engine itself - and they make ricers happy (along with their plastic bodykit) - the engine itself will not see any difference one way or the other, at a MAX of 9psi boost stock, I am not sure how important it is for the turbo anyway, unless you add a IC, then it will probably be more important if you search EA82T, you will probably find more info that you can sort through on this subject

that makes for funness - the best way I can think of draining it is to run a hose from the tank connection to the fuel pump, and run it to a container, problem being, the moment you take the line loose, you will start leaking gas everywhere - the FI system has ~40psi of gas on it - so running the pump to drain the tank would be extremely dangerous - you need to disconnect the electrical connector to the fuel pump, and turn the engine over a few times to depressureize the system before you do ANYTHING with it 1st rule: whatever you do be careful as you indicated earlier that the spark plugs were wet, I assume that the injectors aren't clogged - probably will need to replace the fuel filter as well as there is a very good chance it is at least partially clogged if the gas is fouled - the rest of the system should be fine if you get the old gas out, and fresh gas in the system will take FOREVER to pressureize after you break the prime on the fuel system - be patient!!! good luck!!

the accent probably has a smaller engine that is easier to turn over - I would check all fuses/fusible links for the electrical system, and check to see that you are getting +12 v on the + side of the coil when the ignition is on - how quickly is the engine turning over? if it is really slow, then you won't start at $5 I'd pick up a starter regardless - even just as a spare

Realize that there was some serious de-regulation recently, and many newer cars have headlights from the factory that would have been illegal just a couple years ago, the downside is that the dispersion patters have gotten rather poor too, so they have a LOT of light they throw everywhere, but not necessarily in the best direction - the actual distance in front of the car illuminated is usually less than traditional designs - there has been a BIG to-do about the problems in most all car driver circles (car talk, car section of newspaper, Consumer Reports, etc.) - Consumer Reports has decided to start rating headlights on cars specifically as a seperate item for the first time in many years because there is so much inconsistancy - it is very likely that some of the old laws will be put back on the books to try to address the problem If you can see an adiquate distance ahead, I don't see the problem - an overly bright headlight can cause you to be blinded if you come across a highly reflective object, and they are generally disruptive of nightvision. (I have had a chance to ride in many of these cars - and I actually think I have a better dispersion pattern in the Soob) The yellowish tint that many older-design halogens have is actually beneficial because it reduces glare, versus the aftermarket blue lights and HID lights, which increase it due to the high color temperature - red light doesn't hurt nightvision at all, which is why it is used for tail lights, the closer you are to red color-wise, the less your eye will react to it (and be blinded) - brighter is simply not always better for headlights; the color of the light as well as the intensity need to be consitered - the idea behind headlights is to increase your vision of your surroundings, not be seen from outter space All said, driving lights are still good to have, and they can double as fog lights - don't have any on my car at present, but I will get some eventually. BTW - if your headlights are more than a couple years old, they are probably due for replacement - mine are nearly 4 years old, and they are DEFINATELY ready for replacement - I also drive with my headlights on

OK - so are you saying it is running, but not for long?? If it is a fuel issue, I would examine the carb. Your friend does know that the driver's side T-belt check mark is supposed to be at the top, while the passenger's is at the bottom right?? if they are both at top/both at bottom, one of the cams is 180-degrees off on timing, and you probably won't run

if you have access to a grinder, once you get the old bearings out you can grind the outside of one of the old ones until it fits easily in and out of the knuckle assy - then use it as an install tool for your new bearings - a LOT easier/quicker than a drift - just be sure you put a block of wood between the ground bearing and your hammer as a cushion putting the new bearings in the freezer after they have been packed, and about an hour before you install them will help too

I have never had an issue with my headlights, and they are standard GL/Loyale Clean the buckets for starters - use a glass cleaner or rubbing alcohol - pour it in and slosh it around make sure the bucket is COMPLETELY dry before you reinstall it - the bucket is glass and metal, so it will clean easily use Sylvania Xtravision lamps (9004 XV) or Silverstars if your rich make sure they are aligned properly - many shops get it wrong, as the dispersion pattern is slightly different than other cars I have a friend with an EA81 wagon that had a lot more problems with visibility than I do, and given that these halogen bulbs are so common, and sealed beams are becoming less available without special ordering, I would stick with the stock ones - try driving a ford/gm/dodge that is ~10 years old, and you DO have a problem with the headlights - the lens plastic really yellows on those

this is a common problem - I just force the cover (and the stupid metal sleeve) out, and use a flange nut behind the cover and a longer bolt to hold the cover on - I probably have half the bolts for the covers attached this way, and it works fine it is also true about where you live being a factor as to consiquences of running with/without covers - I a lot of driving in all conditions, and I need maximum reliability so there's no question for me