85Sub4WD

The puff of smoke while turning issue is exclusive to certain fuel injection cars with their PCV system and a faulty PCV valve; if it is a carb car, you have other issues. - I really can't think of what could cause it off the top of my head - what color is the smoke??? I suspect cleaning the carb (on vehicle) by spraying carb cleaner down the throat of the car should help your problem. It sounds to me like it is mainly an adjustment problem/linkage problem, that should be solveable. - there should be no play in the mechanism, other than as pivot points, which will probably be pretty obvious to you Depending on what you plan to do with it, you might consiter converting to SPFI (fuel injection), or a Weber coversion - I prefer FI, and you get more, smoother power from it than from a Weber, but it is a more difficult conversion to do than the Weber.

It depends on who you ask as to whether or not they say it is a good thing to run without them - I saw an engine in the JY once that had picked up a stone on a T-belt and jammed it into the oil pump assy, obliterating the belt and damaging the oil pump assy, so I run with them - others will still fight to the ground saying they are unnecessary..... it is easier to do the T-belt replacement if you don't have the covers; but the replacement interval is 60k anyway, so it isn't THAT big a deal whether you have the covers or not 9004 - I like Xtra Vision by Sylvania

I second the turning move - just make sure a good machine shop does it, and that they know it is a two-step flywheel, and it needs the offset checked/maintained - they should be able to look up the spec'd clearence I dropped the tranny in mine, and it was a REAL PITA - the engine should be MUCH easier as it is light I would use new bolts and lockwashers for the flexplate - the stock ones are class 7 steel, and I had one break off on me before I reached specified torque (luckily some of the shaft was still above the flywheel) - I replaced them with class 10.8 bolts (stronger metal) - be sure that ALL flywheel-engine and flexplate bolts are IDENTICAL when you install it, or you will have a problem because it will be unbalanced the flywheel-to-engine bolts must have the threads coated with something (I used RTV silicone) because the are drilled through on the crankshaft, so you need something to seal the oil in, or you will be doing the clutch again shortly keep ALL clutch mating surfaces clean, and if you get anything on them, use brake cleaner to remove it baggies and a sharpie to write on them with are CRITICAL to doing a job this big

there are systems that take the fluid at the tranny's pressure and change it out that way - that is actually the "traditional" way of doing it - they hook into the cooling circuit, or into other special points on the tranny - a transmission shop is the best place to go for this job - and a honest one with a good reputation at that - If you express your concern about the flush damaging it, and they tell you that their machine won't damage it, and good explination why; I would be satisfied - better still, get them to gurantee that the machine won't hurt your tranny - don't worry about how much fluid gets changed beyond ~80-90% - in reality, any gummy stuff should either come out, or be amply diluted by such a change - I actually had a long talk on this very subject with a neighbor who ran a tranny shop for years until he retired because of the afforementioned problems with my friends car - he also was a higher-up person in Mobil - so I am a little biased as to which oils/lubricants I use if you are really woried about the tranny, see if the shop will clean/rebuild your govenor valve assy - I think info on that is in the repair manual section of this site if you need a name for a tranmission shop, ask someone with a ~96-00 Dodge Caravan :-\ actually, I think most any Chrystler produce made ~96-00 (maybe later) will do good luck

My 1985 FSM lists the NA MPFI having a sharper advance curve than the turbo, maxing at 20-degrees advance at 3k RPM for the NA, vs ~14 @ 3k for the turbo - keep in mind that the vacuum levels the vacuum advance sees are different for both fuel systems, and there is no data for how the NA disty would work in a boost situation - I think the NA one would give a much stronger reaction to boost though if I had to guess - the may be a stop on the NA disty vac. advance movement though that keeps it from retarding the timing the vacuum line will/won't make a difference based on whether or not your vacuum advance assy is gummed up - I thought it did not make any difference either, until I found the advance assy had frozen - my expierence was that it DID make a big difference for the NA carb vehicle when I disconnected the vacuum line at idle with a working advance mechanism good luck

for this job, an old contact-style one will work best - the one where you have to wedge a wire from it into the #1 spark plug wire and make real electrical contact - the newer intuctive-type ones have trouble at low rpm, like while cranking - mine is the latter type, but I can't complain as I got it for free

The 1985 FSM listing for the COMPLETE transmission capacity is 7.2-7.6 quarts for a 4WD car, and 6.3-6.8 quarts for a FWD car - I don't know why there is a range for capacity, but there is be sure to change the filter/screen too - you have to remove the pan to access it - I don't know about the Redline Dexron IV fluid, but Dexrons are backwards-compatible, so it should be fine I do know that there is a Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, but I have never used it (don't have an auto soob) be careful with "flushes" - I don't have an auto soob, but I have had some "flushes" damage trannies in other brands of car because they force the fluid durring the change at a higher pressure than the tranny can handle, and it damages seals - have had this happen in several of my friend's cars - I think one was a honda, and the other a mitsubishi - don't know if it could damage the subaru tranny, just be sure to check and make sure a good shop is doing it good luck btw - if you want to be really good about the job, change the front diff oil to - 75W90 Mobil 1 for me - the capacity is 1.3 quarts, and you have two socket drive-style bolts on the driver's side behind the CV axle - one for fill/check, one for draining

Both of the gears that mesh for 5th gear would have to be swapped - the gear combination is 34/39 for the .871 5th gear, and 32/41 for the .780 5th gear - this would mean that you would have to dismantle both gearshafts inside the transmission - to ensure it would all work nicely afterwards, ALL clearences would need to be checked as you are changing gears, and it would need to be handled as a transmission rebuild - I am not sure if it would have any effect on the other gears too long and short - it is probably possible, but very difficult - get a JY tranny to do it with if at all possible, because it will be time consuming, and if it doesn't work out right, then you are not in too bad a shape - better still, have a transmission shop do it (that will probably cost big $) good luck

the '85 and '86 RX had the same 5-speed 4WD D/R tranny as the GL's (PT4WD, usually FWD, then 4WD hi and lo), but with different gearing, and 25-spline front stubs - they were NOT full-time 4WD, so you had to be on a slick surface to use the 4WD The 87+ RX has the same transmission as you, while you can make it work like a regular 4WD by locking the center differential, there is no easy/reliable way to make it FWD - at the very least it is a bolt-on-bolt-off change of the driveshaft (just the rear section), and locking the center diff - but I don't know if the locking mechanism could take the strain, and it would probably fail if it was driven hard grossgary - I am ~90% sure the high-range gearing is the same - there seems to have been only two main gearing schemes for MT 4WD cars - turbo and non

OK - For starters, the Auto that was available for the Loyale was a 3-speed with no overdrive, and it required the tranny oil to be in pristine condition to work properly, and the govenor valve tended to gum up so it wouldn't go into 3rd gear - it is not a good tranny for highway use as it runs ~4k rpms at 65mph - it was available in FWD, or a part-time 4WD (NOT AWD!!) there was a 4-speed electronically controlled auto available, it is rare as it was only put on the 1988-1990 turbos, and it IS AWD, but the gearing is WAYYY too high for that engine to handle - with 25 more hp, the turbo motor is known to have difficulties with hills at speed - it is almost the same transmission used in the early AWD Legacies you best bet would be to swap an early legacy 2.2L engine and transmission - a LOT of wiring, and I am not 100% sure it will fit converting the car itself to 4WD is a complex at best task - the entire rear end would need to be gotten of a 4WD car, and the diff and tranny would have to come from the same car - the car would have to be the same bodystyle as yours too for the drive axle to work, and you would have to fab a bracket the center carrier bearing for the driveshaft the easiest solution, and the one I would recommend is to grab a 3-speed FWD tranny in good condition, and do that swap - anything else will get real messy - wait till she marries you before putting in that much time

I would suggest you try to stiffen your suspension rather than lower it - it will achieve a similar outcome, especially if you use Peugeot wheels for a "plus 1" style rim - a larger front swaybar would help too RX's have the stiffest front springs from the factory; I think 4WD station wagons have stiffer springs than yours too - the 1985 MY's have adjustable coilover preloads for the front struts (you can lower the front easily) the rear coilovers off 4WD cars have 3 adjustable levels for the preloads - don't know how they will work with 2WD trailing arms though - I think the front springs off a specific late 80's/early 90's honda will fit the rear coilovers, and they are MUCH stiffer than the stock ones if you convert to 4WD, you could get the trailing arms that have a swaybar assy, and that would also improve handeling those are your cheapest options, and they are still not very cheap without a good JY BTW - that interrior is CLEAN!! - you don't usually see an interrior that clean on a car that old

I have a FSM for a 1988 XT - so the ratios should be the same - the PT4WD (pushbutton style) is listed as a .871:1 ratio for 5th - it would confirm this if you check the rear diff ratio and find its 3.7:1 - if it is 3.9:1, you probably have the .780:1 5th gear

thats what I thought - maybe it would be cheaper to buy another running justy and salvage the pump off it but seriously - that is REALLLY freakin' expensive

Trogdor - I am sorry to disagree, but it depends on the specific vintage - the 1985 MY ALL used 3.7:1 rear diffs, you have to read the FSM to get the transfer ratios - the FSM AND the owner's manual agree I have personally seen several working NA 3AT cars from 1985, all with the 3.7 rear from the factory - the ratios for the 3AT changed along the production line - the 4WD transfer reduction ratio also changed (manuals use a 1:1, autos use somewhere around ~.9:1 - depending on year) - it is NOT just a matter of turbo or not Bottom line - compare the two diffs, and keep the diff matched to the tranny - that is the safest way to be sure you have them matched correctly Rohan - you may have had a modified 3.7 LSD, which had its gears changed to 3.9:1, but kept the LSD mechanism - it is a relatively common mod

http://www.1stsubaruparts.com lists the pump components, as well as the whole pump assy - the assy does not look cheap .... maybe should just do rotors and seals - not familiar with the Justy pump tho good luck BTW - my expierence has been that one dealer will say that a part is unavailable when they really just don't want to look it up - have had so many problems with one dealership in particular, I don't use them anymore (they told me the timing belts for an EA82 were "unavailable" )- I would call several other dealersips to be sure

what did you do with those wires? and is it possible you disturbed something in the center console?? The digidashes do seem failure-prone for whatever reason. - I think the usual culprit is loose solder joints, and/or overvoltage from a bad voltage regulator. - Does the car still start and run?? good luck!!

if it is not an EA81-turbo, I doubt it is possible, because the belt routing is COMPLETELY different and so are the pumps, however if it is an EA81-turbo, I think it is possible

yes, you should have a light first question - are you actually in 4WD?? the light comes on via a sensor in the transmission - if there is a problem with the 4WD actuator, then the 4WD won't engage, and the light won't come on - if the engage mechanism is working, then check the wiring leads between the sensor and the dash, and the indicator lighbulb itself - something isn't right good luck

sorry fj401968, but I still disgree with it being proper to use such a sealent I have personally seen the results of various stopleaks being added to various radiators - none of the different types have performed well at all - in the best case scenario, they did nothing, and in the worst, they plugged EVERYTHING UP - I also have questions about some of the manufacturers on your list - I KNOW that Subaru did NOT use the bar's leaks when these engines were built originally, and so adding them is not an adviseable thing to do - I would also like to see where you got your list of manufacturers, and the precise useage of the sealent - treating a radiator with the additive is a very different thing than adding it to the system after the fact I have a close friend who has been in various roles in the auto industry as a whole for over 50 years - from the design and spec side, as well as the hands-on side, for most of the larger automotive companies in various components - his comment on stopleaks as a whole is that they are a stop-gap for a problem that should be properly addressed Furthermore, any of the stopleak additives if added in sufficent quantities will impede the natural lubrication of the water pump, and cause failure - that is a simple, well recorded fact to answer the original question, NO BLOCKSEALER/STOPLEAK WILL FIX HEADGASKETS - PERIOD you have ~130 psi pressure against the head gasket just when the engine is turning over, and many times more when it is actually running - there is no sealer that can solve a headgasket break into a compustion chamber for any length of time - it will merely aggrivate the situation, and leave you stranded somewhere - I have actually been before there with our Ford Aerostar - it did not even last the 10 miles to the nearest garage for the engine overhaul

The pics show it to be SPFI - and you do NOT want to go carb - that entails continuous adjustments of the engine - not to mention that it will hurt your fuel mileage, and probably cause you endless grief going through the state vehicle inspection - actually it is against the law, because you would be removing federally mandated emissions equipment stick with FI, and just be careful around water

OK - I got a replacement for mine today - Carquest apparently pulled all the faulty filters in september, and replaced them with the new design - they do look very different - the older ones seem to be longer, and the welds are of different types. - Hard to describe, and I don't have pics. When you do change the filter - be prepared for it to take a LONG time for the car to prime/restart, and be sure to relieve the fuel pressure before removing the filter by unplugging the fuel pump and running the car until it dies I would suggest you call the WIX hotline - it is listed in one of the above links Best of Luck, and I hope the faulty filter does not cause any damage!!!

the ASV (air suction valve) is actually connected to your exhaust - it is one of those annoying environmental devices of questionable effictiveness look up from under the car at where the Y-pipe connects into the cylinder heads - you should see a metal tube comming out of the head just above the Y-pipe connection - that is where the ASV connects - follow the tubes, and you will find two small metal boxes, with another tube comming out of each, and going into plastic silencers, and then into the air filter area. block the tubes off for the ASV in whatever fashion you like, and test to see if it backfires - if it still does, then I suspect the EGR system (independent of carb) or disty, usually T-belts do not strech (they snap), and if they do, it will do more than just backfiring. you are setting your timing at 8-degrees before top dead center with the vacuum hose to the disty disconnected and plugged right??? and the car is warmed up??? - do you know if the advances on the disty are working right?? check the vacuum and centrifugal advances to make sure they are moving freely - before I converted my car to FI, I had an issue with the vacuum advance on the disty seizing

I agree, I had the same thing happen to me ~5 years ago and it turned out the ac compressor had seized - unplug the blue wire going to the A/C compressor clutch and your problem should magically vanish

What model, year? is it turbo, carbed, fi? carbed ones tend to backfire if the ASV valve or the EGR valve are gummed up/damaged - this is not unheard of - if it is a fuel-injected car, I would suspect timing belts.

be careful with exhaust leaks - there is CO in exhaust, which is a colorless, tasteless, odorless toxin, which is quite deadly - leaks also can cause idle problems by confusing the O2 sensor flow really is not THAT big a deal on these cars - if the air filter is clean, and the exhaust is in decent shape (cat not plugged) you will get no more than a 5-10% power boost MAX by playing with the exhaust/intake as it is a non-turbo - additionally, opening up the exhaust too much can burn valves, and hurt your low end torque - usually you will just move your power band higher, which is NOT good for off-road use I have screwed around endlessly with mine and found no magic cure to make things super powerful all-round, it is a game of tradeoffs. Proper tuning it the #1 priority to performance - timing should be 20-degrees before top-dead center (with green test connectors connected), distributor cap and rotor should be clean, spark plug wires should be clean and in good shape (use high quality ones - cheap parts-store ones are crap) spark plugs should be clean and NGK brand, with the gap properly set according to your owner's manual/underhood emissions sticker - it may also be a good idea to replace your O2 sensor - it is a fairly cheap part if all of that is done, the engine should turn out ample power for your needs - more power is nice, but not necessary - power is one of those things where how you use it matters more than how much you have for a general oversight, here is an incomplete factory service manual for the 1989 MY - yours should be similar if not identical (look under EA82) http://ww2.finleyweb.net:9394/default.asp?id=142