85Sub4WD

They do have valve seals, but they sit stationary on the valve guides, unlike many american engines. I would do a compression and leakdown test, if the block is fine, and the rings aren't worn too much, I would redo the head gaskets, and everyting above them. - If the rings are worn badly, I would think about getting another engine. No clue what that purple fluid may be - check around to see if you can pinpoint where it is comming from - could be PS, but I really don't know - the only purple stuff I know of is the "Royal Purple" engine oil - which costs an arm and a leg.

Have you replaced the seals for the front axle stubs lately? I know if you overtorque the seal holders, you put a lot of stress on the front diff carrier bearings, causing them to make noise just a thought

the original bolts are M10, 1.25 pitch - I'd go with class 8 or better steel I found a gasket from napa intended for the EA81 that seems to work better than the stock ones - I can get you the part # later good luck

the CR is different between the 88 and the 86 - however it is inconsiquential - I installed the SPFI system form a 1988 DL into my 1985 GL, and depite the difference between the 9.5:1 CR in the 88, and the 9:1 in the 85, the FI system runs beautifully, and has plenty of power

the short and long of it is NO I installed the SPFI system on my car - you have to synchronize timing, duration, mixture, and advances for fuel and spark all without a computer?? without an ECU of some sort (analog or digital), it can't happen without a carb and traditional distributor if you want something simple, a weber conversion is your best alternative, with a standard carbureated model distrubutor

I blocked the AIS at the head by getting a cheap piece of aluminum, cutting the general shape of the AIS connector out, and drilling two holes in it - guranteed to work, and it is EASY to do - I reused the old gaskets I had the same question about exhaust temperature yesterday - a friend has a laser-thermometer that can tell the temperature of an object you shoot it at - at normal operating temp, the head/exhaust connector read about ~500F MAX, mostly ~450F - realize the block IS aluminum so you won't/shouldn't get too high a temp on it anyway, I used Permatex ultra-copper high-temp RTV silicone sealent rated to 700F (in addition to new y-pipe seals) - have driven 50 miles in it, no problems so far

are you asking about rust repair, or about the tranny?? how extensive is the rust? theoretically at least, there is no limit to the amount of rust that is "repairable" it just gets harder, and harder to do. If you know how to weld, that makes a BIG difference. If the rocker panels are fine, it should be relatively easy to fix, otherwise it could get nasty.... good luck

it is done, fairly frequently in fact, but mostly with GL's with the dual-range 4WD transmission here is one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-GL-Wagon-1986-Subaru-GL-Wagon-Lifted-Snorkel-Accessorized-nice_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6467QQitemZ4606901002QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW and here is it in action http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9765&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

that's what I thought, and that's why I asked - my next thing to figure out is if the tranny itself has a 3.9:1 ratio in it for the front diff, because I could see someone being sloppy and putting a 3.9:1 on the rear, and working the CD really hard the tranny is not a D/R, but I think the housing bolt patterns are the same, so I could split the case on a standard 5-speed D/R, swap the necessary internals for me to install the CD (would have to use the D/R case). As the gear reducton for the lower range happens in a different part of the tranny, it wouldn't interfere with the FT4WD setup - vola - a one-and-only 3.9:1 5-speed FT4WD D/R transmission don't ask me how I would do the linkage...... Are the drive axles for FT4WD a different length than a standard 5-speed D/R 4WD??

'85 GL, 5-sp D/R 4WD wagon, converted from carb to SPFI - rest of drivetrain & tires stock - generally 23-25mpg in-town (I have a lead foot), and 28-32mpg on the highway - I have found that an exhaust leak/bad O2 sensor will cause my mileage to drop to ~18 or less, and stay there

Hmm - now does anyone have an idea as to how I can easily, and precisely tell if the tranny actually has a 3.9 in the front? if that has the standard GL style gearing ratios, I would be interested in the tranny - because I think the transfer section could be swapped with that of a D/R 4WD, to make a 5-sp D/R FT4WD, with a REAL low range and the regular gearing ..... will look over it more ..... GD - so there was a car which was non-turbo and had FT4WD?? the car was turbo - I will check the # of axle splines tomorrow, and see where that gets us - if it is 23, I think I may buy it thanks all

it was the alternator - the tach jump only indicates disty if the voltage in the car is normal - your tach is fairly sensitive to the car's voltage, so when you start getting crazy voltage spikes, it will shoot your tach all over the place - the giveaway in your case was that your lights got super-bright and voltmeter went high after you get your alt. replaced, it would probably be a good idea to keep an eye on the electrical system, just to be sure that nothing was damaged good luck

I was pulling parts in a JY recently for a number of my family's cars, and I came across a turbo EA82 wagon with a FT4WD 5-speed tranny in it, I checked the rear diff to see if it was an LSD, and found the ratio stamped on it to be 3.9:1 please excuse me if I am wrong, but I was under the distinct impression that all turbo FT4WD's had a 3.7:1 for the final reduction - were there some with a 3.9:1 final? or did somebody put the wrong rear diff in it, and if so, would it cause any problems? thanks

What type of tranny is it? if it is an automatic, replace it with a 5-speed because the CVT automatics used in them are extremely trouble-prone. manual transmission part time 4WD cars *should* be OK to tow as long as they aren't in 4WD, but it would be a good idea to be safe and drop the driveshaft

I second the oil issue - make sure whatever you have in it meets API GL-5 standard for hypoid gears (look on the bottle) - Mobil 1 synthetic is my preferred choice drain the gear oil and check for particles - that will give you the best indication of what's going on good luck!!

yeah - I had it happen to me while I was decending a mountain - I ended up going 35mph in 5th gear :-\ - I got to the bottom, and found/installed a replacement - then I discovered my battery had croaked, spewing acid all over the engine bay those things do not take well to voltage spikes - luckily you don't have fuel injection, cause that can get REALLY messed up when voltage goes up like that - gotta love our voltmeters

sounds like the voltage regulator in the alternator went out - DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL IT IS FIXED!!! - I blew up a battery when it happened to me ....

Sorry - But I had to ask why the water choke? My experience with them has been rather bad (not weber specifically, but I had to deal with them on british cars). I think it would also be a lot harder to route the coolant lines for it than the electric or manual choke version. Thanks

one thing to realize is that almost all carb blocks had a 9:1 CR, where SPFI blocks had a 9.5:1 CR - so you will have a slightly lower CR with the carb block (less power) - if you put SPFI pistons in there, you will have a 9.5:1 CR the camshafts are also different - the carb ones hold the valves open slightly longer, and give you a better bottom end, and a lower top-end - I tend to get valve float ~5500-6k RPMs - the carb blocks redline at 6k, and I have seen SPFI cars have the redline at 6500, so be sure you obey the 6k carb block redline. - you will also need to block the ASV ports on the heads - that shouldn't be difficult. all that said, I have my factory orig. carb block, and a SPFI system from an '88 MY on my car - it all works beautifully, and I have never had a problem passing the state emissions test - a port & polish should give you plenty of performance out of the engine

they do come split - at least for the EA82 - shouldn't be terribly difficult to install - you will have to remove the bracket that rubber piece is supposed to go into, and loosen the other one a LOT to get it to fit - realize the steering rack should be TIGHTLY fastened into the front end Drive axles can have one of two levels of difficulty as to their replacement - the easy one, you can leave your steering knuckle in place, and just remove the spring pin, and pop the axle off the tranny, pound it out of the knuckle the hard way is if the axle won't compress all the way, and you have to take the steering knuckle loose in whatever fashion pleases you to afford youself more clearence. in my personal expierence, the latter is the more likely scenario good luck

I was hesitant to post because I wasn't sure what I was seeing .... YES, there SHOULD be rubber there - that is one of those FIX ASAP kinda things - and while you're at it, your steering boots probably need replacement too ...

BobBrumby is right - I doubt you will see ANY difference at the dyno between having A/C on the car, and not (as long as the compressor is turned off - I agree it would be interesting to see what the power draw is switched on vs. switched off for the A/C system - I know the compressor does draw a good amount of hp when running) - The only reason to actually take the A/C system off the car is for weight, and that has nothing to do with dyno results. WJM, JWX, and several others have done modding, and shown dyno results depicting their hp gains - search, and you will see what has the most effect on performance - off the top of my head, I think the TD04 turbo, intercooler, and bigger injectors made the most difference (along with catback exhaust) - and the difference was substantial. The guys are also running a spider intake manifold off a 87-later N/A XT (not 6).

generally pan=stump yes, as long as you are picking up oil with the pump you should be fine (keep in mind, that you will need more oil for high rpms) - keep in mind, the bigger the stump, the cooler the oil as the other purpose of the stump is to cool the oil - my big concern would be that you may cook the oil in the engine - one who has done more with that than I would be needed to answer that question definatively, yes/no, but I would at the very least have an oil temp gauge installed - if you are shortening it a little I don't see a problem

within limits, it is normal - I just installed power steering on my car, and it seems to do that too - realize that the pump takes the engine's power to turn the wheels, and it will have a more dramatic affect at idle vs. at speed - just make shure your power steering fluid is at the correct level - use ONLY ATF Dexron, NOT "power steering fluid" in the system - that can cause problems good luck

sorry to hear that - I picked up a rock last summer - the windshield repair kit did NOTHING to help me, and I used it as directed - the crack is below my line of vision, so I still pass the state inspection - good luck on repairing it, I hope it works out!!