85Sub4WD

the 84' would probably be worth a decent amount - I don't know a # to give you how mechanical are you?? - it is possible to convert the 84' to the same SPFI the 88' has, even thought they are slightly different motors - the advantage to the 84' is that because it is an EA81, there are no timing belts, and there is more low-end torque - you would have to machine the SPFI CAS (distributor) to fit, and there may be some small issues getting the intake manifold to fit - you would have to replace all fuel lines, and I don't know how the air box would work out - it would be a difficult conversion the SPFI system is GREAT - I converted my 85' (EA82) and I couldn't be more pleased with the performance - FI is the way to go for sure, there is a LOT more power, even on the same engine - if you converted the EA81, you would kinda have the best of both worlds - SPFI performance on an EA81 - no constant Disty/carb adjustments - just put the key in and turn the 88' isn't bad car/year either - just make sure it IS rust free as well, and that the T-belts are fairly new, maitnence has been done, etc, etc ....

Sorry to hear that - next question - did you try copper HG's and if so, why didn't they work - I have heard good things about them, performance-wise, but that the install is really difficult Of course, I am still running with my stock N/A system (well, SPFI converted), with the same asbestos HG's that the car came with in 1985 ..... what is the weight difference between the two engines? do you think it will affect handeling??

I think the bottom line ends up being personal preferance - I would NEVER trade my EA82 for a Legacy - they are not even comporable cars because of the size difference - the Impreza is more comporable, but I STILL prefer my EA82 wagon - and yes, I do a LOT of city and highway driving. The EA82 is cheaper all-round (fuel, maitnence, etc.), and I prefer my D/R 4WD to AWD any day of the week. Parts are cheaper, the car is very easy to work on (no serpentine belt), and it has character. The EA82's aren't nearly as common as the Legacys are, and they a bit more individual style-wise. Not to mention the fact that you can customize them to your heart's desire because they had such a wide variety of accessories available, almost all of which are interchangeable over the 9-year production of the car. There is an abundance of underhood space for servicing them because the spare tire IS under the hood - that makes life VERY easy for me. Realize also, that because this is in the old-gen forumn - that there are not going to be nearly as many legacy supporters as EA82 supporters posting here .....

The first question I would ask is if it is actually in 4WD - you should feel binding when you turn if you are in 4WD - remember you must be going strait to engage/disengage 4WD (you probably already know that, I just want to be sure) if you do feel the binding when you turn, it means you have a problem in the indicatior circuit - either bad light on dash, bad sensor on tranny, or short in wiring between the two places if you don't feel the binding, then it probably means you probably have a vacuum leak, as the 4WD is engaged/disengaged with valves on the vacuum system - or a blown fuse, check all fuses first - I would check the vacuum lines on the engine - I think the valve assy is on the driver's side, near the shock tower (but I can't remember - mine is lever-actuated) also keep an eye out for loose electrical connectors under the hood good luck

have you checked your fusible links? - they are under the hood next to the plastic coolant bottle - are there any other devices not working? I have heard of the wires in the door hinge area fateguing from opening/closing repeatedly breaking - check those too bottom line - NoahDL88 is right - it's your big chance to play detective; but it shouldn't be too bad

ditto on that - radiator hoses are cheap, and they are easy to replace I routinely check mine, and if I feel that they have the slightest inclination toward failure, I replace them - as that one is near your thermostat, I may go ahead and do it as well one note about springs - they are BAD, I have known of several instances where the spring "traveled" out of the hose, and in one instance it killed a radiator, in the other it killed a water pump (one car was a BMW, I can't remember the other one)

stupid question, but have you checked timing? if the timing is way off, it can cause backfiring.

I first want to express my appreciation for the board, and its members. It has helped me out of many mechanical situations I have gotten myself into. I also have a great deal of respect for the board moderators and members. McBrat, I do understand your point, and the point the mods have in general; and I realize that there has been fireworks lately because of the very issue you showed us; but it would be nice for there to be some way for us to give basic info, like our which model/year our Subaru is without having to post it every single time, or making people go to our "profile". I guess you would not even have to call it "signatures", but "ride" or whatever else you want to call it. - that would not be off the topic of the board, and you could also limit it to one line without a problem - I really never had a problem dealing with other people's signatures (assuming they were remotely on topic) compared to other message boards I have read/used, even before the limitations were imposed the signatures weren't too bad - it would be nice to have it so that the board isn't completely sterile of expression - and as a last resort, you guys can ban people if you want to - I hate to be the one to point it out, but it is your perrogerative as a board moderator - I just think that signatures should be at least reconsitered. just my 1/2 cent

Yes - Cougar is right about the multimeter concern, I wan't thinking an along meter because I never use them anymore - digitals cost a little bit more, but they are worth every cent of it most any new Digital Multimeter (DMM) will have extensive isolation circuitry, that makes it a null issue whether there is/isn't voltage between the two connections (they allow you to be rather sloppy) when you check impedence - in fact, one of my friends has an automotive multimeter that tells you under some troubleshooting proceedures to use the impedence check across a 12V source .... I was actually thinking about that manual for it when I wrote the post - my DMM (Craftsman) is over 10 years old, has seen 12V across the impedence circuit many times, and it has required one battery change, and a new set of probes since I got it new - it still works perfectly - yes, at age 10 my parents gave me a digital multimeter (birthday present) - I am a nerd - guess what my major is my biggest caution is to NOT use the current function unless you know EXACTALLY what you are doing - that can cause smoke if used improperly actually a easier/more foolproof way to test the circuit itself (after you check the lamps) would be to use a test light (light bulb in pointer thingy), turn the car on, and connect one lead to battery + and then check the terminals to see if it lights up - it should light up on both high and low beam settings on different terminals for each setting - test lights are probably $4 or less, but for more complex troubleshooting, you will still need the DMM - they are a critical tool to troubleshooting most any electrical problem, other than a blown bulb good luck

yes, the Loyale, EA82 (GL & DL subcatagories), Leone, "L wagon" are all the same car - check year, because the early 80's ones are completely different than the 1985-later ones (OHC engine 85'-later vs OHV engine pre-'85) - shocks/struts are basically interchangeable as long as both cars are 4WD or 2WD (you could probably get it to work, but I would not recommend it) - having the same bodystyle is preferable - the sedan's shocks are softer than the wagon's - but beyond that, you should be OK - remember to also change both front/both rear - changing only one shock is VERY dangerous because it creates an imbalence in the vehicle's suspension good luck

good points - I have personally expierenced the fact that the Hitachi compressors (axial piston) and the Panasonic compressors (rotary vane) do NOT do well with strait air - a reciprocating piston compressor would be ideal, but I don't think these cars ever came with them - I would either fix it, or ditch it - for tire pressure you can get 12v tire air compressors cheap that will fit in the sedan/wagon rear storage compartment beautifully - and they have worked fine for me

OK - I would recommend you download "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" and read the section on multimeters - I like the book overall, and there is funny stuff, but there are also some mistakes on the level of maitnence certain components require, so don't take it TOO seriously (timing belt every 20k, fram filters, and natural oil ... yeah right) - realize it was written over 17 years ago.... stuff along those lines has changed, but the info on accessing/adjusting stuff and how it works is great anyway - you will need to use the resistance (continuity) setting - the symbol is the omega (the measurement unit for resistance is ohms) - one lead (usually red) is plugged into the place that has the omega symbol, and the other is plugged into "common" disconnect the wire from one of the headlights - turn the car on, with headlights on low beam and check the continuity between the body of the car, and each of the terminals (there are three) on the wire going to the headlight - you will get a reading of zero resistance at one of the wires - if not, you either have a problem with the meter, or you don't have a good ground to the chassis - once you do get a reading of zero (or near to it) resistance, switch the headlight switch to high beam - chect the resistances again in the same fashion as previously, you should get a reading of zero (or near zero) resistance at one of the wires - it should be a different one than you had previously noticed zero resistance on - if that is the case, and you do get the the zero resistance reading, then you just need to replace the headlights (no big deal), if not; then you have a more complicated problem to check to be sure your alternator is not over-volting the electrical system, use the "Volt" range and appropriate probe on the multimeter - connect the positive lead from the meter to battery positive, and the negative to battery negative - with the car idling, you should get ~12.5-14.5 volts - rev the engine up to about 4,000 - 5,000 RPMs and check the voltage - it should not be above 15 volts MAX - if goes any higher than that, you have a bad alternator (not hard to replace, and well under $100 for a reman) Unless you have or intend to add a LOT of power-guzzeling accessories to your car, a GM or other alternator upgrade is NOT necessary (I use stock with NO problem) - it won't hurt if done properly, but it is not something for the novice mechanic to do .... yet

I'm a college student - I need a reliable car that I can service, 4WD is nice, parts are cheap, I have great gas mileage, and my parents bought the car new before I was even born - I grew up in it so it is VERY familiar with it ..... my enjoyment partially comes from the fact I almost NEVER have to do tuneups - I converted it to SPFI from Hitachi carb almost 20k ago, and I adjusted the disty once, and have never adjusted the idle or anything else since then - and the car runs great!! just do your front seals every 60k with the timing belt, and you will never use oil (my cam towers/valve covers have never leaked on me) - I still check it, but I don't have to add any - need I say mention how often my parents have had to borrow my car in the past because theirs had broke down .....

sorry - I hadn't noticed that they had removed our signatures (I had my car on mine) - that annnoys me, cuz I am going to get tired of writing it 1985 Subaru GL Wagon I guess I never have a problem with it because I always de-ice the car by hand anyway - prevents anything else from getting on the road when I drive off - my main concern is that it prevents fog-ups and dew (wiper can also do dew) - I sometimes put de-icer in my rear wiper washer resivoir too - that makes a BIG difference there was one repair to the defrost system, but it was ~14 years ago, and I was too young to know (or care) about the details - I think the switch was replaced - as far as I have seen though, the system is factory spec I wonder if the escort is the exception? the aerostar takes 20-30 minutes to properly de-ice by itself (on a good day, maybe less), and I don't want to know how long the caravan tales - mine takes 10-15 minutes if I let it de-ice by itself, but i rarely do that - defogging is almost instantaneous (what I care about) just out of curiosity - does your girlfriend use RainX or some other window treatment? that affects it too - I don't like it because it does weird stuff to your windows, but it does help with de-icing - quickie lube places often apply it when you have your oil changed

mine is always pretty fast - faster than my Mom's Aerostar or my Dad's Caravan - are your elements damaged? and which car? I have heard EA81 cars have poor rear defrosters - mine is an EA82 - I will confess I sometimes give it a run with the rear wiper, but only if some of the fog is outside Check grounding? - dunno I guess if you wanted to you could glue fine nichrome wire (heater wire) to your rear window in place of the defroster, and wire that in ....... be careful tho

I use OEM gaskets almost exclusively, because the aftermarkets always seem to fail - I have gotten good service out of OEM ones, NAPA gaskets are probably your best alternative First thing I would do is make sure I have a grade 8 or higher stud - preferably grade 10 - I have never had much problem with these seals before - you are using metric studs aren't you??? (sorry if it seems like a stupid question, but I have seen it happen - people don't realize Japanese car = metric bolts) unless he drilled them, you can probably (believe it or not) still salvage the threads - just make sure you use PLENTY of the cutting oil, and move the tap back-and-forth every so often (keep it clean) - aluminium is great for problems like this because it is so soft

My guess/crapshot is that you either turned the pressure up on the stock injectors in a BIG way somehow - or you are using bigger injectors off a later car (IE Legacy, Impreza, SVX) - I wonder how much of a pressure increase you would get by pulling the fuel filter ..... I know there is no physical way for a SPFI injector to fit - though you could probably get decent fuel delivery out of one - they are designed so that all you need is one for engine operation - with four you would have PLENTY of fuel ...... If the SPFI TB throat wasn't so narrow, you could even use it to effectively richen your intake charge under boost..... you would probably have to machine it to fit anyway sorry for confusing the RX for the GL-10 - I remember a engine shot, and that it was yours - and that it was some time ago Yet, the fact that you have 8 injectors makes me think you got them off a V-8 engine - as subaru doesn't make these, and there are so many out there, I wont guess beyond that ..... OK, spill the beans, how are you getting your delivery - I'm getting a headache

I would see if an EA82 non-ac model's bracket would fit - the belt system on the EA81T is similar to the EA82 - you may even be able to machine the braket to fit Actually, your A/C compressor is probably good if it hasn't seized and wasn't left with the in/out ports exposed (IE the system was still closed) - you probably could just recharge it and add a little compressor oil - I think the compressor also looks like the standard Hitachi compressor on a number of EA82 cars in the US, so if you want A/C, and your compressor is bad you could probably salvage a compressor off one your decision

That's the dead-giveaway for an isolation problem - your speakers are picking up the electronic noise comming from the car's high-voltage ignition system most any car audio place should be able to help you solve the problem - generally, a replacement radio will not help - I have a neighbor who has been there many times because the installer of her aftermarket stereo did a bad job one question - have you modded your car? high-performance coil and the like? just curios ....

OK - I thought about your problem, and I have a *theory* first question, is your alternator working properly - most auto parts stores will test for free if you alternator's voltage regulator fails, and puts more voltage through your system than it is supposed to get, you will start buning-out stuff typically, one of the first things to go are your headlights - your headlights have a single bulb, but each bulb has two filiments in it; one for high-beam, and one for high and low beam operation - the high-beam filiment is under higher thermal stress (though it is not used as much), so I would expect it to be the first one to go - if both high-beam filiments are burnt out, then you will get the problem you are describing *NOTE* if you replace/examine your headlights DO NOT touch the glass part!! it will cause the lamp to fail soon after it is installed - the lamp could even explode - if you do accidentally touch it, clean the bulb with rubbing alcohol thourghly, and allow to air-dry another possibility is that someone put the wrong type headlight bulbs in - they should be 9004 - if they are 9007 or anything else, they will NOT work properly and of course, there is the last possibility that the switch itself could be faulty, but as it is the hardest & most expensive thing to replace, I would put it last on my to-do list

I seem to recall in one of WJM's previous engine pics that he had ditched the fuel rail, and gone with equal length rubber fuel injection hose. I don't know why this thread interests me - I'm stuck with SPFI

that sounds like something I would do Ross - that engine look beautiful - given the level of care you are taking in your rebuild, I am sure it will perform at least as well as it looks when you are done good luck

some contact cleaner on the fader control should help/solve your problem otherwise, you may have a blown amp in the radio MAKE SURE YOU USE 8 (or more) OHM SPEAKERS!!! or you WILL blow the factory amp factory stereos are CHEAP if you can find one in a JY, and I have never seen a bad one before, the fact that it is only one one channel makes me think it is not the noise isolator

I thought you could use the front springs from the stut assembly off a specific late -80's honda to get stiffer rear springs???

check fuses first the switch is at the base of the turn signal (push stalk to/from you for high, low, and flash) - the relays are above the driver's side kickpanel - they are round canisters with a 4-wire connector going into their base good luck