kleinkid

I replaced that switch on my '00 OBW a year ago. P/N 83071AE01B $85.61 from www.subarugenuineparts.com

It might be 33022GA081.

Sounds like a very fair price for a brand new 2008. You will probably get more than 20mpg city. Buy it!

I also have an '00 OBW. I wondered why you were having problems, so I went out to my car to see how mine was hooked up to the ceiling. I pulled it out of the stowed position with no problem. When I tried to re stow it, it was giving me problems. So I took the buckle that is more square, not the one with the hook in the end, and jammed it up into the cubby hole. It stuck up there. In fact I could not get it to release. Got the flashlight out to see up in there, and discovered that I had jammed it into a seam in the top center of that cubby hole. There is a cream colored plastic piece with two little barbs that is probably meant to secure two halves of plastic trim together up there. The hole in that square buckle got stuck in those barbs and was wedged in. Look up there with the flashlight and see if this is what happend to yours. I was able to use a screwdriver to pry it out. There is a diagram up there which shows how it is supposed to stow up there. The buckle with the hook actually snaps, kind of, into a slot that is in the forward part of that cubby hole. When it is plugged into the correct hole up there it comes out easily.

I have used this product on three 91-94 Legacy, works great. Get mine at Walmart. Link: http://www.crystalviewchemicals.com/index.htm

My '00 OBW had the driver side HG replaced at 39k mi after an external leak at the rear of the engine, coolant conditioner added at 49k mi per the service bulletin, and a couple of weeks ago at 73k mi the driver side again had the external leak at the rear of the engine. I don't think that there was an improved gasket available for the HG replacement at 39k mi. This time both head gaskets were replaced and the part number is different from the one installed at 39k mi., so maybe they are an improved version. Subaru covered the cost of the HG work, and I paid to have the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, cam seals, crank seal, oil pump 0-ring, and the t-belt tensioner replaced while they were in there. Penninsula Subaru in Gorst, Wa. had the car for five days and gave me an '06 OBW loaner, no charge, nice car, and there was no hassle at all about doing the work. It would seem that the HG problem continued on into the '03 model year. '00-'03 OB/Legacy owners should keep a close eye out for HG leak symptoms.

My '00 OBW with 73,000 mi. has an external leak on the drivers side head gasket, back of engine. This is the second time. First time was at 39,000 mi. in 10/02, coolant conditioner added at 49,000 mi. 3/04 per the service bulletin. If there is an improved gasket I am not sure it was available to the dealer in '02 when the head gasket was replaced the first time. No problem yet with the passenger side. Subaru is paying for the head gasket portion of the job. I am going ahead and paying to have the following parts replaced at the same time: timing belt, front cam seals, oil pump o-ring, front crank seal, thermostat, water pump, and the timing belt tensioner. The dealer(Penninsula Subaru, Gorst, Wa.) provided for my use, at no charge to me, except for gas, a beautiful 2006 OBW 9,000 mi. What a nice car! I sincerely hope this is the last of the head gasket problems with my OBW. My next Subaru will be that 300hp+ LGT wagon that is in the future!

We used the Clearview headlight restoration kits on two cars. A '91 and a '94 Legacy. Got it at WalMart also. Works great. It is a wet sand polish kit. Has the sand paper(2 grits), polish, and the clear coat sealer. Good instructions. Use a spray bottle of H2O to keep the polish wet like they suggest. The package has everything you need in it, you don't need to purchase the components separately. Cleans really well and clears them up nicely.

Usable range of a torque wrench: I work in an industry, nuclear power, where tightening fasteners to a specified torque is is used extensively. Here is one of the standards used: Torque wrenches should be selected such that the applied torque is 20% and 90% (inclusive) of the full range of the torque wrench unless otherwise specified by the applicable component manual. For example: A 15 to 75 ft-lb torque wrench would be acceptable for any torque value between (75ft-lb X 0.2) or 15ft-lb and (75ft-lb X 0.9) or 67.5ft-lb. Sometimes 20% and 100% is used. Moral of the story, where it counts, don't use less than 20%.

I got one for my '91 SS a couple of years ago from Gundies Auto Recycling in Bellingham, Washington. This number should work for them, 1-800-444-4344. The deflector for any Legacy sedan 91-94 should fit.

Those two threaded holes are there to be used to jack the rotor off of the hub. Don't hammer the rotors off. That is completely unneccessary. I can't tell you what the thread size is offhand, but you thread a bolt into each hole evenly and they will push the rotor away from the hub until the rotor is free. Use two bolts. Piece of cake. You don't need to be a hammer mechanic.

'00 OBW--Goodyear Aquatread 3 on the OE wheels and for winter Michelin X Ice on '99 LGT 18 spoke wheels. '91 Legacy Sport Sedan--Dunlop SP Sport A2 and Michelin Arctic Alpin. Will probably replace the Dunlops on the '91 this summer.

I also have a '00 OBW, and when first starting out when the engine is cold, I can sometimes hear the sound of running water. Don't think it is a problem at all. The sound lasts just a few seconds and is gone. I have no overheating issues or any problems with the coolant system. I have no intention of bleeding the system on account of that sound.

Pitting like that on a sub prop will cause noise in the water and make the sub easier to find with sonar by the enemy.

What side headgasket is getting replaced? The drivers side on my 2000 Outback wagon was replaced at 39,000 mi. Took the car to the dealer at 8am and they called me at 2pm, same day, and said it was ready for pick-up. They did not remove the engine from the car. Warranty work, no charge.

$60.00 for valve cover gaskets is about twice as much as you have to pay. For $32.74 plus $6.00 for shipping I bought both valve cover gaskets and six of the rubber grommets(seals) for the bolts from www.genuinesubaruparts.com. Jamie will take good care of you.

Try www.rallitek.com, they have them.

Ultimately it is a better repair if you just buy a new cv drive axle. Most of your chain auto parts stores have them, around $60.00. You don't know how much dirt has worked its way inside, which will cause failure in the future anyway.

I just changed my pads on my 2000OBW at about 56,000 miles. No uncommon tools needed , just your metric tool set, and c-clamp. Use an old brake pad or a block of wood to protect the piston when you depress it. Buy yourself a Haynes Repair Manual. It has directions that explain it very well. It is not perfect or all inclusive, but it does work. You do not need to drive any pins out to do this job. When you remove the caliper lock pin(the lower pin) you use a combo wrenckh, 12 or 14mm, I can't remember for sure, you will be able to swing the caliper up so you can remove the pads. I bought OE pads because I did not want to use cheaper chain store pads that do and will dust alot. The Haynes manual has instructions for bleeding (2 person method) and you just keep pumping out fluid(keeping reservoir level up) until it is clean. You could buy Speed Bleeders or use a kit that you can buy at one of the chain parts stores that has a check valve and you can bleed the brakes yourself. It has worked excellent for me on all three of my Subarus. Follow the instructions to remove the rotors and have them machined (plenty of meat left at our mileage), $8-$10 each. You can do it, and it will give you confidence to do other maintenance yourself as well.