Mack Truck

how cool is this... please leave a link to your build information. id love to have a dash like yours for my 86 GL wagon im building.

you mentioned the VW guys love these superchargers, here is a graph of a 1974 with 75hr at about 2750 peak tq. the subaru redlines up near 6000rpm so the response and net gains might be quite different. just saying... the blower on this bug shown below is much larger than the one you are speaking of. some interesting stuff. glad you make this thread. best of luck let us know what you do and if it works for you.

I am not expert on superchargers or even turbos, and Yes my EA-82 is low power at low RPM, however, my build i had Delta Cam do a Stage 1 cam grind for more low RPM power, and i also run a Weber 38/38 Synchro Carburetor-- you can get the kit from Red Line. (I was the 1st person they know of to actually use this carb to the EA-82) The result is lots more low end power. I can spin the front tires in 2wd. i have not put it on the Dyno yet, but in the future i will. my thought is the 14hp drag of our supercharger would not over come the added performance and the supercharger will not make as much boost as a turbo charger. The caution on parts and the head gasket issues of the EA 82 would make me shy away from this mod... (My 86 GL wagon has the automatic transmission hence is high geared compared to the 5speed manual trans, and for me it is an every day driver so the low end torque and power is needed for me for starting out and getting on the freeway when my RPMs will not be over 4000 that often FYI only)

how bout clogged fuel filter? has it been changed recently?

I too agree with running open belts. Here is the link to the video i watched to learn how to instal the timing belts correctly. I hope you got the kit and replace all the tensioners idleers and all that. you will be glad you did. MIles Fox is a Subaru Mechanic that shows you how to do these things at home with minimal tools. best of luck man...

do you know if the float is set properly? is the throttle cable allowing the carb to return to where the slow idel screw is on adjustment tab? id check those too.

you could use the 4wd when starting out from a stop, however any turning on pavement is really hard on ALL of the components of the drive train from the transfer case out. Tires, CV joints and differentials, drive line. etc. the other issue when doing this is the tire size and wear need to be even as with AWD cars. try it wen starting out in a straight line and see how it goes.

i have a Weber 38/38 syncro carb on my EA-82 and it works well. I would not try to mate to old EA-81s on there when the one carb does fine.

yes i do, yet only on the left head. not so good..... :P

can u txt me or call me later today I would be grateful for getting a new gear. email if u want to also yet i wont see it till get home.... 509-520-9661 macktrk123@gmail.com

No, My EA 82 had cracks tween the valves on each cylinder and the heads pressure tested ok.

Hi every one. Im in Walla Wallla, Wa State and need a timing belt gear as my left head bolts loosened and my gear came off. In the process the bolt holes on the gear are some what e-longated. If any of you have an extra gear you would sell me that would be great. please reply here or e-mail me or txt or call, how's that lol Macktrk123@gmail.com or 509-520-9661 Thanks Ray

you seem to be on track with your assessment sir. oil in the water is usually head gasket from my experience. the white smoke on startup just might be your indicator of water getting in the oil too, or...... It is possible your water level being low in the overflow is tied to the white smoke. if the coolant is getting into the cylinder then u could see white smoke when cold but when warmed up not noticeable YET. try taking the spark plugs out and see if one of them is wet with anti freeze. As far as antifreeze in the oil, yes that is a no go for me as it will take your bearings out if it persists. you could take an oil sample and send it in with an email response and only drive minimally until you are sure there is no anti-freeze in the oil, As you know the EA 82 is prone to head gasket issues. for me my heads were warped so i am just finishing a rebuild of my heads, had them shaved and heads pressure checked and new seals etc. all new timing belts and pulleys etc. if u go that far do a wet and dry compression test to see if full rebuild is needed. etc. good luck

Yes i have about 20,000 miles on my 38/38 before i messed up and have done this top-end overhaul. I love the thing. I dont feel it over fuels, cept the down draft with the EA-82 intake is asymmetrical, so this time im getting some help from a friend who is really good with Webbers to help me put more air in the forward barrel and see if that helps.

That is what i thought too Idosubaru, and i did message him ( All_Talk) and his last activity on that forum was 2017, so IDK That thread with the pics was 2005, so im thinking its a shot in the dark, yet we shall see. the pics on the legacy thread showed it well, im guessing they were the same on this forum too.

Crazy 8s this is the one i found https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19911&fbclid=IwAR1x9yfmE3dxghSmkYQsjQ9FXwPbfMZNao4fBcbUuanvBloaLjaHai0xQYw so was Gary's thread also on this page?

I have built an EA-82 with Stage 1, Delta Cams in it and I saw an old post on Legacy Centeral.org (2005) by a guy Gary, (All_Talk) stating he had made some for the EA-82. Does anyone know of him or can some one speak to this topic of the need to fine tune the cam timing with a Stage 1 cam grind? I also run a 38/38 Syncro Webber Carb. and a 2.5in CAT back exhaust.

Hi Grizzly, I am just finishing a top end over haul on my 86 GL, with the 3AT that had an original hitachi carb . I had added a 38/38 Weber Carb at Redline's recommendation. They also stated if i was going to do or had done any other mods to the engine that the 38/38 would be the best as it is a syncro carb NOT progressive carb. When i had some tuning and fitment issues they admitted i was the 1st person to use their conversion kit that they knew of. (the carb will not fit normally with the A/C compressor installed, so i turned the carb. 180 degrees and had to make a bell crank so the throttle cable works correctly, and it does) The carb performs as stated, much better low rpm torque. I added a 2.5in CAT back High Performance Exhaust which helped more. I messed up and over heated my engine (bad radiator and ran out of water) and in the rebuild got RV grind cams from Delta Cam. I did my break-in run last week and will take it on a test drive in a few minits, but saw your post. I do have a vac line to my distributor, and i took all of the vacuum lines off the hitachi as possible and it works well. ill let you know but my 38/38 really works great, (I have about 20,000 miles using this carb) im hoping the stage one cam grind does the same for my low end. the transmison is high geared in 1st gear, and i too have 15in wheels and KO2s on it. Ill let you know how it goes. Id suggest you do what you talk about above and consider a vacuum advance distributor then call Redline and consider the 38/38 over the progressive carb that most ppl use. BTW i was getting 25mpg on the hwy, which is about the same as the stock carb. big change in performance however for the same mpg. (during the top end overhaul i have also added a 4in lift kit so i have that to get used to along with the new cams.)

i am just finishing an overhead rebuild on my EA-82. Did its 20 min breaking run last night, I have stage 1 cams and rebuilt slightly shaved heads. the orange "junk" may be the copper gasket sealer sometimes used on head gaskets, The timing belt covers: I'm running open belts as others have said they are really hard to find replacements for, plus when belts need replacing and tensioniers need changing you can do it without removing the front pulley and all that. so you may want to think about running with no timing belt covers. (i had to re-route and lengthen the oil pressure sending unit wire and run it along the bottom wiring loom under the radiator as i will get cought up in the open belts if u run it down over the front as it is stock.)

What a find. i want to hear what u find if u choose to replace the head gaskets now. I really suggest the Webber 38/38 syncro carb and u may also want to send your cams off to Delta Cam in Tacoma, Wa for a Level 1 grind. I have done this to my engine. I also have a CAT back 2in exhaust. Let us know how it goes please.

I've thought about this for a while now with my 86 GL wagon when installing my 4in lift. Id find a way to connect direct to/through the bumper to the bumper attach points with a permanent attach point for the tow bar so it comes off when not in use and easily re-attaches for towing. My other thought was to find a connection to the cross member that goes under the engine and make a similar attachment point there and form the tow bar to go under the bumper and make it's hinged attach point there. I was thinking of using the "tie down" points for the safety chains to attach to. Ill take another looks at it as it's been 2 yrs since ive thought bout this... Ray

I go mine several years ago and this looks like u still can. there is a 877 number on this link. call them up http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/subaru/

agree wheel bearing probably came apart. dont drive it as if the race turns on the spindle it may gall it up, better take it apart.

yes me too on mine. i got a helicoil and fixed it right up, btw i make teh mistake and paid a lot for matching metric threads and pitch. my friend had one that as metric but not the same pitch, and for one bolt on the car it would have beeen a huge savings to use his that he will never use after the one bolt he replaced. so look around for the right drill bit and helicoil set just match the stud with a correct nut and your good to go.

how long ago did u replace the idler and tensioner pullys. id for sure do both belts