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Folks, Some words of wisdom from Blackstone Labs (they have a great oil analysis program): from their Feb. 03 newletter (http://blackstone-labs.com/feb_03_eng.html) Many people have very strong loyalties to certain brands of oil. They’ll swear by their favorite brand and assure you that anything else is bound to ruin your engine. But we’re here to dispel that myth. After nearly 20 years of testing oils from thousands of different engines and industrial machines, we have discovered a simple fact: it doesn’t really matter what brand of oil you use. But wait! Before you dismiss us as heretical, listen to what we do recommend. We always suggest using an oil grade recommended for your engine by the manufacturer and a brand that fits your budget. The grade of oil is much more important to performance than the brand of oil. In fact, here’s another little secret. The oil you can find at any mass retailer is actually name-brand oil, but with the store’s label on it. Think about it. A retail store is not in the business of manufacturing oil. They buy their oil from the big oil companies and put their name on the bottle. The only difference between the “generic” brand and the name-brand oil is the name on the bottle and about 50 cents per quart.

Manarius, Yeh, I figured I got the right plug but am still curious about the “hot” side. At first I figured it was the green with red stripe wire as it had the right spade connector, but it didn’t have any voltage (DUH as there is only one black feed wire coming into the plug). That is when I started looking elsewhere for the “hot” lead. Do you know if when I used the green with silver dot wire as the hot lead if this was correct? Now I just thought about this, if I metered the wire (green with silver dots) and then pulled the fuse for the lighter circuit, that would let me know if I was on the right power source (again, DUH!). Cougar, I will check out the black to ground although when I was trying to figure the dang thing out, I did meter between the green with silver dot wire and the male end of the plug and did get a complete circuit. BUT, nothing describes WHY I would trigger the cooling fans, and then not just one but both of them. The only possible connection that I could come up with is the switch for the A/C unit is nearby but even if I did somehow get involved with the A/C circuit, wouldn’t that trigger only the secondary fan???? Arghhh! But again, thanks for taking the time to give me some input and direction, it really helps.

Can someone do me a favor; I need to know the wiring scheme for the cigarette lighter/power outlet for a ’97 Legacy L sedan (or similar). Issue is mine stopped working a while back; fuse was fine so I got another panel with the outlet from a forum member, went to install it today, and this is where the mystery started. I have attached a picture to clarify but there is one black wire that comes off the side of the lighter and goes into a foam covered plug. There is a second wire, green with red stripe with a spade terminal end that comes off of the back side of that plug. Now the male end of foam covered plug has one wire, black which started me thinking, where does the power comes from. Starting with a meter I verified the foam covered plug is only a ground so I had to look for a power source from somewhere. In checking the wiring diagram from the FSM, it showed a green wire coming in and a black wire to ground (via a plug). So I start looking for a green wire with a spade terminal (there is spade terminal on the back side of the assembly) and I find one in close proximity. I metered it and it has switched 12 volts with a spade terminal so I figure out this must be the power source. I connect the plug ends and then the green wire with silver dots to spade terminal turned the key on, then plugged in the cigarette lighter and this is where the fun begins. THE COOLING FANS STARTED, BOTH OF THE FREAKEN COOLING FANS STARTED!!! I pulled the lighter out, the fans stop, I push the lighter back in and both fans started, I pulled out the lighter and the fans stop….you get the picture. So this is why I am hoping someone can give me the “what goes where” on the back side of the lighter. Then we have the real mystery of what is the connection between the cigarette lighter outlet and the cooling fans. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

screwbaru2 and davebugs Here is the only link I have with regards to replacing the HVAC bulbs http://www.randomsoup.com/how_acpanelbulbs.html Now check out " Issue 1: The temperature control cable" this will outline both ends of the cable and should give you a good starting point. When I had my control panel out, I remember there (at least I think I remember) there was a small metal clip that held the cable to the back side of the control unit so it did slip off the attachment point. I hope this helps.

FSM section on Service Procedures for the steering box attached. Look at the exploded diagram on page 1, #23, that is your adjustment screw.

Seems to be according to the FSM for my 97. PM me with your email address and I will send you the section on Steering gear service procedures. Per the manual: Inspection = poor mating of rack with pinion Corrective action = Adjust backlash properly. By measuring turning torque of the gearbox and sliding resistance of the rack....

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the FSM procedure for the rear bumper. The FSM is for my 97 but should be similar for your 95.

If it's the same as my '97, take the ashtray out and then at the top of the opening will be two screws. As mentioned a stubby phillips or an offset phillips will work. I have attached a pic that will outline the various mounting points, again, this is for my '97.

I recently changed both front axles on my ’97 L auto with 165K on it and can verify the compressed length of the original Subaru axles that came off the car, 26.875 inches. I can go into why I know (the dreaded vibration after axle replacement) but I can verify the length of the new EMPI replacements was 26.875 as well. For reference, the factory spec for the Cardone (the Subaru replacement manufacturer) replacement is 26.75. Also, the difference between compressed and non-compressed could be as great as 2 inches. Hope this helps.

JT95, Give this a try, the listed site has a 2002 WRX Factory Service Manual available for download, which might give you some further info on the dash removal. http://phatg20.net/index.php?option=com_remository&Itemid=2&func=select&id=52

I ran into this issue when I recently replaced both front axles on my ’97 Legacy L sedan with A/T, the original axles had baffle plates on the outboard ends, while the new axles had the tone rings. Although the website I purchased the axles from http://www.autohausaz.com/ listed one part number for my application, the catalog from the manufacturer (http://www.empius.com/) listed another part number. Now the only difference between the two parts number was the application of the tone ring versus the baffle plate. I was actually able to get a hold of someone from EMPI and they clarified the overall specs were the same and if I wished I could either leave the tone ring or remove it, in my case I chose to remove the tone ring and then replace it with the baffle plate as all of the diameters lined up. Now if you look at their catalog, the application looks like this: Legacy including Outback 00-0480-5521 1999 A/T 80-5521 M/T 80-5511 90-98 80-5511 I have attached pictures of the two parts (5521 vs. 5511) and you can see the only difference is the tone ring versus baffle plate. Also note the 5521 which has the tone ring is for later models (00-04). Now if locations are trying to limit the on hand part numbers and both parts are similar in specs, I am curious if they are just stocking the later part number? I have also attached a pic of my axle versus the new one, making note of what xrturbo said in the original post: The boots have more convolutions and dont get stressed as much.

a plug for someone along the New England coast: www.subaruparts4you.com or http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214077

My '97 Legacy L 2.2 with a build date of 12/96 has the old style as pictured: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=1635

Dang, I tried to attach a screen shot but it doesn't seem to have work so this may be easier: http://www.obddiagnostics.com/ScrnShot/Winscreen.html

grossgary, If you have a laptop, give this a look: http://www.obddiagnostics.com/index.html this unit will give you real time data as well as a look up function for the trouble code. Also, depending on your skill level with a soldering gun, you can get a kit for $43.10 or if you have fat fingers (like me), you can order the complete unit for $87.10. Again you will need a laptop, but this gives you he ability to watch the data as your moving down the road. I have attached a screen shot of the main window to give you an idea of the level of detail. You can also download the software and give it a test drive. Oh, and you can download the actual Schematic Diagram and build one from scratch.

Typically they are an 8-mm bolt and you would need 2.

mtsmiths. Looks as if you pop off the bezel around the clock which will expose two screws that hold the center compartment down. I tried to give you a shot of the service manual for that part. Oh, this is from my '04 FSM which should be the same for your MY.

PM me with your email address and I will send you the FSM "Service procedure Rear Bumper". I have a '97 L Sedan.

nydsol, Try this, http://www.cartalk.com/, this is the home page for the car talk guys. About half way down is a spot called "Mechanics files", plug in a zip and you can search for repair shops in the area. I put in a generic Boston zip code and got about 20 responses, mostly repair shops but they did list quite a few body shops. Worth a shot if your still in need. Best of luck.

grossgary, Go to any of those sites I mentioned and then start with the collision catalog, then: Front suspension->Drive axles->Baffle plate->outer joint Again, the key is to start with the collision catalog versus the mechanical catalog.

Guys, sorry when I answered grossgary, I thought he was interested in where to get the backing plate (nice hit! where did you find those?). The EMPI axles were bought at http://www.autohausaz.com/. They were the cheapest out of about ten different locations that sold those axles. In this case they were like $86 with free shipping over $50. Again, I wanted to try a new versus rebuilt. We shall see how "smart" I was.

My favorite three all list them in their parts lookup function: http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214077 https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html And we shall see about "it working out". I know they have to make some concessions when they are manufacturing to reduce the overall number of part numbers, but I hate it when there are differences between old and new parts. Again, I will update you on my overall EMPI experience.

OK, got the baffle plate off of the old axle, was able to knock the tone ring off the new axle....and yippee, the diameters do line up. I think I will wait till the light of day (and the warmth) to see if the modification creates any issues on assembly. Again, thanks for all of the input. I will give you updates after I complete the R&R on both sides. Oh I did check, you can purchase the baffle plates (which are called "Outer joint Back") for about 5 bucks each but I was able to get the old one off without too much difficulty or damage.

subaru360, Thanks for the quick reply and I think I will be doing the "swap" but am still curious about the function of the baffle plate. Does it work in conjuction with the oil seal in the hub? or is there some other function?

I’m in the middle of doing both axles on a 97 L sedan (168K). I have the right axle out and doing a comparison to the new axle I have noticed a difference. Now the old one is actually the original Subaru axle and the new one is a new EMPI axle. Now the old one has the baffle plate (I think that is what they are called) on both ends. The EMPI has it on the inboard side but on the outboard side, they have an ABS tone ring, which in this application is not needed. I have double/triple checked the part number going right to the EMPI site and it is the correct part. Everything else seem fine, length, spline count, etc., it’s just the outboard baffle plate that is missing and that is making me nervous. Now a few questions, what is the purpose of the plate? The EMPI tone ring is about the same size as the baffle plate, so I was thinking about knocking off the ring and replacing it with the baffle plate. I have tried to attach a pic of the two axles showing the difference. Anyhow, any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Not what I wanted to deal with while doing both axles in an unheated garage in Maine. Thanks.