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vtphoto, May be too late for you with regards to current situation, but in the future an FYI (I found this out after dealing with a similar situation). The Tire Rack has offered a tire shaving service, price will range from $25 to $35 for each tire. (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18) Good luck.

'04 FX at 15,000 miles has seen a constant 25.5 mpg mixed and 28.5 mpg highway.

Gary thanks for the reply. I was worried that the cap might support the camshaft end or perform some other function that could go terribly wrong when the cap was pulled off. So give it a twist if it doesn’t want to come right off? Thanks again.

Can anyone advise if the cam cap does anything except cover a hole. In other words, does it support the cam in anyway? Or is replacing the o-ring as simple as removing two bolts, taking the cap off, replace the o-ring, then replace and torque the two bolts?

https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=63&products_id=357&osCsid=144fa0d4e1cfe9a556fd2e4357c2fff1 $4.81 includes a new oil pan drain plug gasket.

Had the same issue with my ’93 L wagon until realizing there wasn’t one!

89Ru, Dang, I thought this stuff only happens to me, especially the part about “The gap was my imagination”. Amazing how you can “imagine” apparent problems. I congratulate you on your persistence

outback_97, yep that would do, but again, as Andyjo has mentioned, the old hammer method also works. My problem is being a tool junkie, plus I was never good at breaking tapered joints loose with a hammer. Now Andyjo mentions having problems with the caliper support bolts, my suggestion is to soak them good with penetrating fluid (I like PB Penetrating Catalyst) a day or two before you do the job, then a 6 point socket and a long bar. The torque specs on those bolts (at least for my 97 Legacy) is 58+/-7 ft-lb, so if they haven’t been broken loose before, get ready to use some force. Sounds as if you have prepared yourself well. Again if you need torque specs or other info, pm me and I can supply them. I would imaging your OB would have the same specs as my L.

My suggestion (again my $.02) is to invest some of your savings into new tools, like: http://centralonlinesales.com/show_Product.asp?ID=587, go for this style versus the “pickle fork” style as they are much easier on the boots. After that, perhaps a torque wrench as every bolt you will remove will have a spec for re-assembly. Best of luck and if you need any further support pm me.

I can appreciate the “mission critical” aspect, but if you were going to replace rotors, the dust boot is no more difficult, really. As for steering wheel placement, just rotate the steering to give you the best shot at whatever you’re working on. If you are going to replace the rotors, you will be removing the caliper support, which means breaking loose two larger bolts. With this, you will rotate the steering wheel to give you the best shot at getting on the heads of the bolts, as you will more than likely need a longer bar to get them loose. Now to your question, “is there a specific grease or lubricant recommended”, nothing needed as the boot is really just a “dust shield”.

outback_97, Save the $80 and do it yourself, very basic, the only hard part is breaking loose the outer tie rod end. You can either use the “hit it hard with a hammer” method or rent, borrow or buy a tool made specifically that purpose. Before you separate the outer end, loosen the lock nut on the inner tie end, the one for the alignment adjustment. Here is where you can save yourself the cost of realignment. Mark (with paint or a Sharpie) the point at which the inner tie rod threads into the outer tie rod, this is the adjustment point for toe in/out. You can also count the number of turns when you separate the inner and outer tie rods, then just make certain to recount the turns when you assemble. When you get things back together, as long as this relationship is kept the same, you won’t need to realign. OK, so you separate the outer tie rod end, twist the outer tie rod off of the inner tie rod, slip off the old boot (or just cut it off), put the new boot on (protect the boot from the threads on the inner tie rod end, either by placing electrical tape or put grease on the threads). The inner side of the boot is held by a spring while a clip holds the smaller outer end. I had to fight to get the spring on and found it easier to slide the spring on first, then the boot, then fight to get the spring over the boot rather than putting the spring on the boot first and then trying to get the boot/spring in place. Any how, once the boot is on and secured, screw the outer tie rod into the inner tie rod making certain to get the two back together in the same relationship (total length), if you are careful, you will not need a realignment. Then torque the lock nut and the outer ball joint, don’t forget the cotter pin and you just saved $80.

outback_97, The boot protects the ball and socket joint on the inner tie rod end. My advice, change the boot before you need to change the inner tie rod end, it’s the old once of prevention. From experience, the inner tie rod end is a bit of a pain to change, while the boot is fairly straightforward. Again, my $.02. Oh, if the ball and socket joint is worn, you will get a clunking sound from that side, if it frozen up, it creates a crunching sound.

Heikki, Thanks for the reply and the advice, and yes, the dealers installed the spring guards but they were unable to advise if they would fit anything other than Subaru struts. You seem certain the retainers will fit non-Subaru struts, is this from experience? I am also a bit nervous about changing the springs that might be compromised. Now if I had replaced the struts before having the recall completed, they would have replaced the springs. With that, I am curious why they didn’t just replace the springs versus putting on a “retainer”! Now your comment on spring rates was what I was wondering about. You say; “The only concern I would have is the dampening of the GR-2's against the spring rate of the Eibach's”. Is there a reference somewhere that would detail this? The part number for the springs is # 7706.140 and is the application specified on the Eibach website. I really hate to use springs that would have a negative effect on the struts. You mention that you will be replacing your springs next year? On the 96? Will you go stock Subaru or aftermarket? Just curious. Again, any further advice is gladly accepted.

Looking for advice/comments/suggestions, please. I have just purchased a full set of KYB GR-2 struts for my ’97 which was one of the vehicles involved with the following campaign: “Subaru of America, Inc. (SOA) has determined that affected vehicles, listed below, may have been manufactured with front coil springs on which paint was improperly applied. If an affected vehicle is operated for an extensive period in a “salt-belt” area (see list of states below that use large amounts of salt on the roads in the winter), continued exposure of the salt could corrode the front coil springs and eventually cause them to break. If a front coil spring were to corrode and break, the broken spring could contact the tire causing severe tire damage and possible rapid tire deflation.” Phew, now to my question, I have been worried about changing out the struts using the “suspect” springs mentioned above so I have been looking for a new set of springs. Now, I have an opportunity to purchase a full set of Eibach springs for the vehicle but am curious about the following: 1) The springs will lower the vehicle (Front - 1.2 in, Rear - 1.2 in,), what problems/issues will I run into with this? 2) Will the spring/strut combination work? Any and all advice will be welcome. Thanks.

emlizmue, Check out the following: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=91 Involved but doable. Enjoy.

Got your attention. Hey just ran across this at: http://www.shockwarehouse.com/specials.html 235066/235065/235069/235070 - 1992 - 1994 Subaru Legacy 4WD ( non-air suspension) 4 KYB GR2s - $ 188.00 Their disclaimer: Quantities are very limited. All of these products are or course, brand new. FREE GROUND SHIPPING on these items in the U.S I wish I could use them!! Put struts on the '93 just last year.

tzrider and Scottbaru, Yeap, I had to reference the Haynes and Chiltons to find a picture of the "bushing". Now my FSM (downloaded version) for the '97 Legacy doesn't show the sleeve/bushing, nor does the picture for the 2.5 version. But as Scottbaru says, I’ve seen worn pins but have never run into the “bushing” being worn out. Now tzrider to your question “what's your opinion on cheaper aftermarket calipers as compared to OEM parts”, over the years I have replaced many calipers, on various cars and they have all been aftermarket. The link to the Autozone site lists a caliper remanufactured by ARI , I have had great luck with their products. Check out their web site (http://www.ariparts.com/). Anyone who goes through the hassle of getting various certifications (ISO 14001, ISO 9001:2000, BEEP, and many more), is doing things right (IMHO).

tzrider, I am curious about the term "bushing". On the caliper you have guide pins, shims and seals, but I haven't run across "bushings" with regards to the brake systems. Can you identify/clarify the term. You do note "pistons move smoothly.. lock pins (bolts) also slide smoothly and the dust seals are intact". Unless there is play in the guide pins (lock pin) or the shims are worn, that's about it. Lastly you can pickup rebuilt calipers for under 60 bucks if it comes down to replacing them: http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EBRAKE+CALIPER+-+FRONT%7C%7E%2470.00%7C%7EARI%7C%7EDRIVER+SIDE+++++++++%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E359788%7C%7E3213%7C%7E12-9713%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E%2455.99%7C%7ESUBARU%7C%7ELEGACY+OUTBACK%7C%7E1997%7C%7ELLT%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EV

mulk73, Go to: http://www.bosalnafta.com/usaindex.php then click on "Products" on the left hand side. In the next window, choose make, model, submmodel, engine type and then year. Click on "get search results" which will bring up a breakdown of your exhaust system. If you click on "VIEW" it will bring up a picture of your exhaust. I put a Bosal exhaust on my "93 Legacy and was pleased with it. Everything from the "Y" pipe back, including the second cat, was around $400 ish. Oh, got it at the local NAPA store (I happen to get a good customer discount).

harborseal55, I just did the inner tie rod (right side) on a '97 Legacy. My saga started with the same type of creaking noise you described . Upon investigation I found the inner tie rod end boot to be split and the joint was bone dry, causing the creaking/clunking noise. I spend a few hours working wheel bearing grease into the joint to the point where it was free to rotate. After that, I put on a new boot and “thought” I had the problem solved. Well I did solve the original noise. Now about three months later I started to hear a thunk/clunk noise from that side on wash board roads, worse at slow speed (probably could hear it better). Anyhow, the noise was from the inner joint, it still was free to rotate but there was just enough slop to allow it move in the joint, creating the thunk/clunk noise. If you are interested, I can give you some pointers. Again, my experience was on the right side but should be similar on the left.

LOLGuy, Not certain if the '04 OBW is similar to my '97 L but on the '97 there are front and rear window stabilizers, consisting of an inner and an outer stabilizer. You should be able to adjust the clearance to eliminate most of the rattle. Regarding: "If so, is the door panel difficult to remove?" go to: http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/ixSearchFree.jsp?text_keyword=&keyword=&publication_type=12&free_pub=13 then download: 2003 Baja Speaker Upgrade Installation Instructions. Tab down till you get to the "Rear Door Speaker Installation-Rear Door Panel Removal", this should give you a good idea of the steps needed to remove the panel. Best of luck.

Legacy777, Since http://techinfo.subaru.com limited the downloads to 20 PDF's per hour, it sucks to try to download 700-800 files to get the complete manual. I spent the entire subscription period running back and forth to the computer every hour downloading my 20 file limit. My feelings is they are driving folks to the pirated versions available versus legal acquisition. I downloaded two manuals prior to the hourly limit and was pleased, now with my recent experience, I doubt if I would put myself through that misery again. Again, my $.02.

Howard, My advise, maintenance. Now both of the vehicles I mentioned were purchased new so I can comment on the care taken. First, keep the battery topped off. I always use distilled water. Then keep the terminals and battery clean and free of corrosion. I go so far as to remove the battery once a year and clean it (I know, I know, how anal can one get!). I usually repaint the hold downs to keep any corrosion to a minimum. Oh, I also use the anti-corrosion disks under each of the terminals. Lastly, and this was mentioned in a previous response (the worst possible thing that can happen to an automotive type of battery, is for it to get completely discharged), DON'T kill the battery. On both cars I was fortunate enough to have never drained the battery to zero. I feel this has a dramatic impact on the life span. Now, during this time, I have had several cars bought used, and each of these got the typical 5-7 years from the original batteries. Go figure. I hope this helps.

The OEM battery on my '93 Legacy went for 10 years and 148,000. The OEM battery on my '86 Saab 900 lasted 12 years and 165,000. Oh both cars never saw a garage and suffered with Maine winters. All I can say is maintenance, maintenance, maintenance

Just figured out a similar noise on my 1997 Legacy L sedan. The noise was a hollow sounding thunk/clunk coming from what seemed to be the center of the car. It was sporadic and almost impossible to duplicate. I had the car up on ramps and jack stands several times and couldn't find anything. Persistence paid off finally when I noticed the right hand boot on the steering rack was torn and the ball and socket joint on the inner tie rod end had deteriorated. It was that joint that was the cause of the noise. I spend several hours working grease into the joint to free it up, then replaced the boot. The noise is now gone. Just a thought but worth looking into