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I figured I'd have to pull the whole dash to get the whole EA harness out and I don't want to do that. I'll take another look.

Hmm that's frustrating that it was so much of a hassle. I'm thinking about cutting all the wires I don't need under the fender and just pulling them through. Not sure if this will work but it should tidy things up at least a little.

Let me know how removing the wiring goes. I want to get some of the extra wires out of mine as well.

Got a better price estimate now you've got samples?

Anyone have any ideas?

Not sure I know what you mean or how to fix it but I'll look into it! Seems like a pretty weird thing to be happening.

Finally completed my swap and now I'm having a transmission issue. In first third and fifth I get a grinding noise while decelerating. Its fine while normally accelerating unless I push the shifter. When I decelerate it grinds a bunch. Not sure what's going on as I have no idea about transmissions.

Somewhat... Shes leaking. Headgaskets and rear main I guess I screwed up. Bought new oem ones and did them hopefully its all good now.

So I'm missing the charcoal canister for my EJ swap. Not sure if I left it in there when I pulled the motor or if it just didn't have one... Either way just wondering if I need one and if I can use the one from my EA82 and where I would plug it in? There is a hose I'm pretty sure is the evap from the gas tank that comes out near the master cylinder from a hardline. Is this correct? Can I just run this straight to the Evap hardline on the EJ intake? Thats the way it looks in the EJ manual.

I'm a fool didn't fully understand the ignition had the wrong wires plugged in fixed and car starts just need to sort out the tach and malfunction light

I thought about mounting the ECU on the other side... Should have done that. Too much work to change now. All good and running extended some sensor wires need to do both o2 sensors now. Its obdii BTW.

Just ran all the cables for my swap through the left side fender and into the cab but they don't reach the engine components now. Am I doing something wrong? I lengthened some and got the engine wires plugged in by lengthening some sensor wires but now I'm thinking maybe that wasn't a great idea as it may alter the resistance. I also can't plug the o2 sensor in... Am I doing something wrong?

Made progress was not understanding the ignition. The starter attaches directly to start and ignition on to ignition on... Somehow that was blowing my mind. Car cranks and revs when I hit the pedal but dies as soon as I'm off the starter.

So I'm kind of confused and wondering if my ignition should be connected to the ECU in two places? Currently I just have the starter switch hooked up but should it not be hooked up to the on position as well? The fuel pump only turns on when I try to start but not to prime...

Also fuel pump fires when I crank the key to start.

So I got it in but can't get the ECU to fire the starter. 12v goes into the ECU at the "switch" pin but 12v doesn't come out to the starter... Anyone know what's up? Going to start looking now.

If it ends up blowing I've got one... It occasionally gets lifter tick when its really cold. In Vancouver BC.

That's what I want to hear! Probably going to turn the key tomorrow.

I'd love to find a way without an extra purchase. Seems most people have done these conversions without an extra board so I'd rather not have to purchase extra stuff but will if I have to... Especially with the exchange right now. With shipping that will be over 100 easy. I'm also not that worried about codes more wanting the engine to function well. If the chip just tricks the engine into not showing those codes I'll just ignore those codes. I guess the real question should be are any of these necessary to the function of the engine.

I have a handful of wires coming out of the ECU that I need to either use or cut was hoping someone could tell me whether or not they are needed. I have a pinout diagram and a list of what the numbers are but some I'm unsure if I need them and where they go. Vent control solenoid valve - brown yellow stripe, silver band Malfunction indicator lamp - goes to check engine on dash? Neutral position - does the loyale have one? Engine speed output - tach? Vehicle speed sensor 2 - Dark green, black stripe, silver band Fuel tank pressure signal - yellow, blue stripe, silver band Fuel temperature sensor - red, black stripe, silver band Fuel level sensor - brown, white stripe, silver band Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve - light green, black stripe, silver band I also have three I'm not sure of Blue silver band Green, red stripe, double silver band Blue, white stripe, silver band

Have one last question (I hope) just put the timing belt on and have been reading that I may need a guide plate for the timing belt if using a manual trans. Is it completely necessary? Why is it needed on manual transmissions but not auto?

The wet sand actually sounds like an easier plan than grinding valves at home. I may also try and go to a dealer and just trade some out. From what I understand the shims are $20 a piece and when I need probably 6 its just getting a bit out of hand for cost. They really aren't that out probably .03mm when the tolerance is .02mm

Definitely not grinding away without the proper tools. I'm really wondering if its a big deal if they are out a little extra... On the exhaust side. The engine ran before so it should be fine now and realistically this will just push the valve open a little extra? But maybe also a touch early I guess...

Got most of the way through the rebuild really no problems with any of it but glad I checked. Have new Tbelt, water pump, HG, Intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, fuel and oil filter. Now I'm losing my mind at the beginning of the build I flipped one of the heads and the buckets started falling out on the table. I already lost track so just said screw it and just kept them separated left and right. I've been reading how to measure and figure out the shims but I just can't get them all within spec. I can get most but not all. is +- .02mm crucial or can I go to .03? Do I need to press them in somehow to make sure they are sitting properly? Is it likely they just went out over time? I figured if things were wearing out they would gain clearance but I'm mostly having an issue with not enough clearance. Are the buckets also different sizes? Hard to measure the tiny nub on the inside... Any tips at all? The engine was running when I got it, figured it would have problems but really everything was great. Really wish I had just done head gaskets and timing belt and called it a day but really wanted to be thorough

Interested to see how this turns out!