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Oh man new levels of confusion added! Water pumps have votes for and against but its only $25 difference in the two kits and in the area so seems silly not to just do it because of fear! I'm almost leaning towards the Six Star HG because its well recommended and I have to give them a vin so it won't be a codswallop up. Will probably just get this from them and the rest of the gaskets from Rock Auto. For everything but the HG would you guys go Felpro or Victor Reinz? I've herd VR for Exhaust and intake as they use graphite, anyone disagree? Headbolts are out - great

Took a while to add photos but finally got some up! Here is also one of the $300 donor Legacy I bought!

Also what does everyone vote on new head bolts? Yay or nay? Feel pro ones fine or spring for the six star?

So I found a sticker today that indicates the belt was changed at 113k I'm now at 167k. Still going to replace the thing since I don't know if they did the rest of the job... I didn't know that lots of them were doubled that definitely decreases the savings margin. ALSO just realized rock auto shows me Canadian pricing not US. I thought I had to add another 30% to prices. 270 cad is better than 360! Going to grab the full gates kit from RockAuto Now onto HG questions. What model # am I looking at for a turbo gasket? I looked at those six star kits but $300? Seems like a lot. Is there any gaskets one would replace above these? Seems like it covers everything mentioned here except the oil separator. https://allwheeldriveauto.com/product/1996-1999-subaru-legacyoutback-dohc-head-gasket-kit/ Is sixstar really necessary and worth it? or can I go with something more modest? Love that resurfacing guide going to save a bunch there!

OK so I know now for sure don't skimp on idlers but is doing the bearings myself not going to be as good as getting them pre done? It takes more time yes but I enjoy doing that more than my job!

So I just got an ej25 to swap into my Subaru loyale. It's got 160k on it so I'm going to pull it replace the head gasket and timing belt. Just wondering what is absolutely essential to the rebuild as I'm short on funds. Head gasket felpro 3 layer is a must from what I understand Timing belt for sure, hoping to avoid doing the tensioners or at least just replacing the bearings in them. I've got a bearing/ seal pusher. Saving 150 bucks seems worth it for the work just don't know if it will be as reliable. What about water pump? Thermostat? As for the rest I'll likely do Intake manifold gasket Valve cover gasket Coolant manifold o rings Anything I'm missing?

So I have an issue. In the middle of lifting my loyale and haven't been able to find a 94 or earlier legacy to steal a steering coupler from. I have an outback and herd that the coupler from it would work if I was doing a 2" drop, I also herd I can use the subframe blocks from an outback to drop my engine. Will these work together or does it only drop one inch?

So I've been working on my car for a while and have finally started to get into some of the more fun things recently as shes been running fairly well. It started as a $400 car that came with a brand new clutch and radiator that weren't installed as the po was too lazy to deal with it. It took a while to start it when buying it but she ran decently enough to drive from Abbotsford to North Vancouver in one go. Since then I have replaced: Clutch Radiator Headlights Spark Plugs Oil Filter Plug Wires Fuel Filter Belts Exhaust Gasket Valve Cover Gasket Battery Distributor Cap and Rotor Alternator The alternator I did the Maxima swap and am running a 90amp, I've installed AUX out directly from my radio, and started to install a folding bed in the trunk with storage underneath. Currently I've also got a 1998 Legacy in the driveway that I will be swapping the motor from. Can't wait to start! Here are some pictures! Pulling the engine up into my car port to change out the clutch and radiator. Doing a dump run with it! The start of a folding bed built from foam core carbon stretcher and some aluminum scored at work. 2" lift in the rear, need to get in the front lift soon been looking silly for a minute now. A solid craigslist score of 4 15" and 5 14" Peugeot rims. Was going to sell a set but think I may just keep both in case I want a dedicated off road set in the future.

Checked the second one out paid 300 cad and it runs good driving it back to Vancouver Saturday.

So I checked out the white car today and it makes some noise. The engine seems to run good. The guy says he brought it to a couple mechanics who says its a flex plate/ dust plate about to break off. When starting it there's lots of noise which slowly dies down. When idling it makes a bit of noise and stays relatively quite to 3k at which point it makes a racket. If you switch into reverse or drive it makes slightly more noise at idle, neutral is about the same as park. What I noticed was it was burning coolant and there is more than likely a blown head gasket. He also said that it overheated (needle went to h) the last time he drove a long distance, but not to the point of shutting off. He seems willing to let it go cheap around 200 bucks. What do yoy guys think? Also consider I'm in Canada and these are harder to come by. I'm keen to grab it doesn't seem like the engine is blown and if it is its not the biggest loss. But if people think its for sure going to be blown after reaching h then I won't grab it.

Scott I'll probably get the plate from you but don't have the money to drop on work I can do myself even if it takes longer. Maybe we can trade more yard work for it.

Going to check this out tomorrow hoping to buy it and swap it into my Loyale. Think its a good candidate? I can't browse this forum without a proxy recently (technology problems) so haven't been able to find the thread I was looking at previously. Mostly just worried about it being automatic but I'm pretty sure thats fine, just wondering about the electronics? Also slightly worried about the fit on an ej25, some people say it will some people say you need to start cutting. I'm not too against cutting but rebuilding and welding anything structural I'd rather avoid as my skills are minimal. http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/5302090658.html Expecting to rebuild it, replace timing belts and head gasket.

Found a pretty good price on a winch up here but it says for ATV/UTV but has a 4000lbs rating. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/4-000-lb-atv-utv-winch-0405953p.html#.Vja1lLerRmN Do you guys think this would pull a loyale? I've read 1.5-2x vehicle weight and by that it works out but just skeptical because its ATV specific.

Planning to make front and rear bumpers in the near future and was wondering whether or not the stock bumper mounts would hold up to winching my car around if I get into trouble. Either way what are some good points I may be able to reinforce onto? Also will 1 1/4" square tubing 1/4 sidewall be sturdy enough? Want something fairly basic and need to replace my bumpers because they are busted anyways.

Guess they just don't make enough money here to bother anymore. We have scrap yards but they just crush em. Anyone any advice? Was thinking of looking for a part today.

The posts in the picture just cause the battery to spark and short when connected. Will try and solder it to the plate but not sure if that will work. Likely un-insuring my car this week and going back to the motorcycle.

Small nut is missing, thanks for replying in the other thread.

Which studded post? The one in the background? Because I assure you the one its meant to go on is gone.

So just picked this alternator up from a 2006 Maxima, the spacing was on point, I made a bracket, then realized the guy sold me a broken alternator. It was used of craigslist, I checked my measurements and forgot to check over the rest of the part since it was so perfect. After making a bracket, shaving the spacer, installing the pulley, and putting it all in I realized the post is just plain missing. Check the photo below. Under the plastic housing is where the post should be. What I'm wondering is can I just make it work? How can I attach it otherwise? What pieces is it supposed to attach to? A picture under the plastic cover of one that's together would help... I really can't afford a new alt up here in Canada at $175 and already dropped $70 on this one that I don't see myself being able to return. For the haters, yes yes, lesson learned, spend the money blah blah. I'm broke, in Canada with expensive parts and no pick and pulls so give me some sympathy!

Guy sold me a bunk alternator. Sucks, going to have to get my money back.

All mounted up just need to figure out which wires are which, have two spades and no ground... I assume I can just bolt on the ground somewhere from what I've been reading, and the two I have no idea any tips?

Seems to fit, width is almost dead on maybe a touch loose. The hole is slightly larger at the pivot point to but shouldn't be a big deal if I just push it to the edge and tighten it down. I will also have to make a bracket to get it to reach the adjuster but again easy enough to sort out.

Anyways what I gather from your post is that if I extend the wires I shouldn't have a problem?

Someone has a used one of the newer model for sale up here. New I'm looking at 175 and I just can't pay that. Used I've got one around 60-70 but there is the issue of fit... Unfortunately things in Canada are expensive and from what I understand all of the pick and pull yards here have closed.

Getting closer to my answer. Here is a 96 which is a later model http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150017-my-maxima-alternator-swap-with-pictures/# 1996 Alt picture from Rock Auto 2004 picture from Rock Auto They look the same