jread

This one is $5 will it work? Not sure if its rated high enough. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BLZ0/DF005W/N0381.oap?ck=Search_N0381_1270167_3154&pt=N0381&ppt=C0335

I know this has been done about 1000 times but I can't seem to find any other specific relays other than the Bosch WR1 for the starter problem I'm having. I'm looking to add a starter or ignition relay to my 93 Loyale and just want to spend $10, I'd pony up $25 for the bosch kit but the issue is I need to pick it up from a store and not ship it as I'm visiting the states (from Canada) and moving around lots. Does anyone have a specific one that will work that's around $10? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDI0/250672/01748.oap?year=1993&make=Subaru&model=Loyale&vi=1270167&ck=Search_ignition+relay_1270167_3154&keyword=ignition+relay This one is in my ballpark but has 6 posts instead of 4 I see most posting. Anyone have an idea how it works? Haven't been able to understand the diagrams I've seen.

Is that just when you switch or is the old started good most of the time and just misses? Can you get it to start when it doesn't eventually?

Could also be ignition. Will it fire after multiple tries? That's the issue I'm having now as my car lacks an ignition relay.

I want to check the timing but I can't really understand any instructions I've read and seem to need a specialized tool that I don't have and have no money to buy. I'm pretty sure I'm reading something wrong but you're right it might be timing and I should really check it out again.

Drove 500km in the last week with no issues. Gas mileage seems bad and I'm sure I'd still get codes if I connected the green plug I'd get the codes again but pretty happy that its working so well. Will tackle these codes and problems. Not ever sure what the source of this problem was but seems to be fine now!

Some of them were open no bueno. Most of them weren't even hooked to anything.

Guess the o2 Sensor is pooched and likely way rusted into the exhaust since everything else is. So if the ohm are ok whats up with this purge valve?

Anyone have any wisdom on that O2 sensor wire? Its pretty pooched and I'm getting a code just wondering if its the wire being worn or if it might be the actual sensor. Would rather not buy a new one if possible. Also getting a code for the purge sensor going to do some research now but im getting 40ohms resistance which seems close to 35 not sure if its close enough.

All alarm wires plugged into nothing... Just a load of spoob. Kept the button and the little light but that's it.

There are some dead ends I was wondering about speaker options for the rear worried about pulling everything without finding the ends. The wire was just stuffed into the fuse panel pretty weak job. Going to go dive in now might take the seat out to properly explore.

No aftermarket radio sounds like maybe could have been an alarm but they are still attached somewhere on the other end. The horn also has an extra wire running to it that's disconnected that I assume is from the potential old alarm. Will keep pulling at them and likely remove them if I can trace them to the end.

So I found this group of wires under the passenger side floor and have no idea what they are for and would rather not pull all of my carpet out to follow them. Basically it all started when tracing a wire that is plugged into my fuse panel, it runs across the car and under the carpet to the passenger side and under the carpet. While routing around I found a small seemingly aftermarket momentary on switch in the glove box that seems to do nothing at all... The wires from this button also run down and under into this mess than disappear into a hole under the passenger seat. What the hell are all these wires!? Is this sketchy wire in my fuse panel causing potential problems? and what would a button like this usually be for?

Anyway to fix the alternator or do I just have to buy a new one?

I am having an issue now that my Charge and Check Brake light are always on at low revs. Below ~1500 RPM they are faintly lit if it drops below 1000 they are full on. Checked the alternator today and even at around 500rpm they battery is still getting 14V at high idle when it starts it bounces in high 14 low 15 so not an alternator issue from what I understand. Kind of weird. Anyone know whats up?

Cleaned everything up and put it all back together seemed to fire up great. Also tightened a ground wire down much better and things seem to be going a bit smoother. Also finally convinced Canadian Tire to honor there warranty on a battery without receipt and got a new one paid for! So I tossed that in to eliminate the pain in the rump roast battery that was twice the size it should be. Still need to tackle the low idle issue. Have the exhaust dropped right now and am threading the holes up to 7/16 14 soon and putting in new studs since the old ones mostly stripped out when I pulled the engine. If that doesn't fix the issue I'll have to search for other solutions.

Minor success tonight. Started it was real gentle and brought her home around midnight tonight when I would have time and space to deal with it being stuck in an inconvenient place. Got it all the way to my garage and only died when trying to get my fob. Started again after but wanted to die immediately when pulling into my spot. Have a bunch of questions and photos tonight. Sorry for all the questions and thanks to everyone whos been answering them! I don't have anyone teaching me this stuff so learning by doing and reading Whats this connector? Located in the top right near the fuel filter, no idea where its going or coming from. Its a big chewed up, not sure how or why wondering if this is causing problems. (that inline fuse is nothing was wired direct to batter for fog lights but I've removed it) This is my thermostat sensor thing and the wires are torched. Guess I need to just replace the whole unit. Maybe I can just solder the wire and it will be better. o2 sensor wire coming from the harness seems in rough shape. It was taped to itself on the top side. Under the tape the insulation wire is pulled back not sure if you can make it out. Will this stop it from functioning? Terrible photo but tons of junk under the MAF sensor. Am I just supposed to be cleaning these contacts or should I be separating the plastic from the metal body and cleaning under? Whats this plug and why does it look like someone dipped it in milkshake? Tons of corrosion blew a bunch out but still needs a better cleaning. Maybe another cause.

Sounds like I need to replace mine! Having tons of seemingly weak electrical problems.

Will undo spray down and reconnect everything tonight very tight along with all the other things! Car is not at my house now which makes it harder but shouldn't be a problem.

Ahhh I thought you were talking about installing it on the car somehow. Need to fix the damn thing first haha!

Been reading a lot on the MAF and am now learning that maybe I shouldn't have sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't remove the housing so maybe its ok but I did blast the plug out good with it.

Will leave the gas cap loose next time. Plugs and wires are all brand new ~500km old. Will try anyways. I still have no idea what I'm supposed to do about the thermometer. Might just buy a new unit I remember reading something about buying a slightly cooler rated one.

Started again this morning super rough really had to give it juice to move. Hesitates a lot tons of jerking. Does this help narrow down the problem? For the thermometer would I then unplug my existing one and not use it?

Last thing I'm thinking is I'm currently running 1 of two exhaust bolts on the left side as one sheered clean off. Maybe this is messing with the O2 sensor.

Damn expensive!! Thanks for the responses, seems like the usual solutions I've been looking at. Might just have to pony up for a new set.