montana tom

120,000 is just broke in on a subaru motor. I personally expect 300,000 from every subi if not more.(might be a little optimistic ) The head gaskets on that motor , do not over heat, do not mix oil into the water. They drip, oil and eventually antifreeze. Drips right on the exhaust ... stinks.. It can be lived with for years if you never let the oil or water run low. Yes to fix, the motor should come out , the heads most likely will not need a full machine just a scuff and new subaru gaskets.

The photo's appear to show the head gasket leaking. Would be dripping on the catalytic and stinking.

If that 2002 has high mileage I would replace that oil pump with a 10mm one.

That appears to be the wrist pin plug. Not oil pressure but oil vapor behind that. Tighten it up ! I find those to be loose from time to time . Quarter turn on an allen wrench should stop that seepage.

Here in the not rust belt, I have had much more issues with the pivot mechanism that the handle connects to. It control's the cable that goes down to the latch itself. Seems to have zero rust resistance , so much so that I pull the rear panel every time I get a subi in with latch issues. Can't tell you how many have come here with the rear hatch inoperable ! Remove the panel , get the pivot mechanism removed if necessary or just lube it up with a dry graphite spray used to lube the booms on cranes. If I remove it, then wire wheel it back to clean metal ,spray a light coat of rustoleum paint (any color) let dry. lube it up and reinstall. The handle mechanism I generally just spray with kroil till it moves freely then a shot of the graphite. In the rust belt that could be a yearly thing ... in the inland north west, its a good fix for many years to come.

7/8 th will work on the crank bolt. Sorry but if the belt slipped you bent valves. You can pull spark plugs and check for compression or pull the valve covers and check for valve adjustment. Or pull the covers confirm timing is off . .. order head gaskets, new valves and seals and pull the motor.

Unfortunately that year motor is known for poor rings. You need at least new rings and possibly there is a better year piston design to use. G.D.) would have that info. EDIT) My bad its the 2.2 in 99 with ring issues.

To far away to help but some advice. Without a lift , pull the motor first its way easier. Then you have bunches of room to work with the tranny.

My experience has been front wheel bearings show with turning. Rear wheel bearings however just produce a loud rumble ,definitely able to be heard & felt , possibly creating a slight vibration.Drive line/U joint vibration is much more noticeable and generally has no deep rumble. Hard to diagnose the rears , generally there is no wobble until utter destruction. If its not the drive line and the front bearings are good , then pick the side you think the rumble is loudest and change it out, using only Subaru or top shelf Japanese produced bearing.

When I need complete exhaust sections I buy them from rock auto. Only order 1 piece at a time and shipping is cheap... add any little thing and your shipping goes thru the roof. Best place I have found if you can't do a small weld in repair.

Did it run good with the new tune up parts until it started raining ? Knock sensor wouldn't do that. To diagnose in the rain , wait till dark open hood and see if its arcing. I suspect the coil.

Dake, Call or go to a wrecking yard and get several original equipment ones. They won't cost much at all and they are very reliable. Much better than the 17 $ one .

Hey Tireman; Are they letting you use the fuel injection ? Back in the late 90's I ran a 90 2.2 on a high bank dirt oval, I had to run a carb.... modified an intake and used a holley 500 cfm. I still lost a lot to those ford 2.5 engines on the straightaway but I could hammer them hanging on the bottom of the corners. Great fun.... Bottomless black hole..... I miss it !

Dake; I'm guessing this car is an automatic? Iacv on a manual is completely different, (its more than just a solenoid)

Try pricing at rock auto, better selection anyway ... $300 for one $150 for another and then one for 10 bucks ??? Knock sensors were like this a few years ago. I will say, I bought the 150 one apx one year ago for a 2001 5 speed obw ... today i had to remove it ... car running at 2000 rpm at start up....swapped in one out of a same year 5 speed car ... (O.E. part) works perfectly.. is the $150 one bad ? Is the $300 one better ? I don't think so, I did clean some carbon from under the intake with the (Bad) iac. That could have fixed it. I installed it the doner car and it ran normally ??? Will it continue to run like it did with the o.e. part ??? We will see... Unlike the knock sensors I definitely would not buy the 10 dollar one.

I Agree about the rubber connections to each wheel, replace them . After that confirm all air is out of your system. If you still don't have good brakes then replace your master cly. EDIT) Oh Yea; The power issue... They are not hotrods.. never gonna be. standard tranny helps but nothing much you can do with the stock N.A. engines.

Well... if the cars really clean and you like it. Pick up a crashed / rusted 96 2.2 car with another transmission . Some 96 outbacks had the non interference 2.2 and some came with the double cam (bad head gaskets) engine...

Pacific northwest has plenty of the body's your hoping for. Long way to Ohio though.

The 01 outback trans should be 4:11

Any codes ? Pull the spark plugs yet ? Might need to do a compression test on it. The fact that it still starts and runs leads me to think the timing belt isn't broken. Edit) I should mention pulling the plugs is not quite as easy as it sounds. Drivers side remove the windshield washer tank , pass side remove part of air intake system.

Hardest part of changing the knock sensor is disconnecting the darn connector without pulling out the wires! No need for a subaru part on the knock sensor the 10-15 dollar ebay /rock auto ones work fine. Easy job 30 minutes or less should do it. The O-2 sensor could give you much more grief, if its rusty ... beware twisting off the fitting from the cat.

Ceramic coated piston's for sure. Back in the mid 90's I ran an early 2.2 ,in a 1980 4wd hatchback . Bone stock other than modified intake 500 cfm holly and I think it was a courier distributor, on a high bank dirt track ... GREAT FUN ... huge black hole for $ .I lost most of the the time running against the 2500 ford 4cly. I could blow by them in the corners "running low" they had to float up to the top. Then down the straightaway they blew by me... I miss it ! Wish our track never shut down.

If this were an 04 outback this is how you would access the radio. Forester shouldn't be that different. If you want to remove the radio, start by popping the trim off around the shifter . You will see 2 screws , remove them , this allows the lower tray to come out. Then you use a stubby screwdriver to remove 2 screws holding the ash tray ,these screws are pointed up. After that carefully pop off the rest of the face plate and then you will see the screws holding in the radio. As with any 14 year old plastic "POP" carefully!

On a 2007 i'm not sure but the earlier ones if you don't connect all the air intake properly it won't run . Triple check all your intake hoses it is easy for one to be missed.

Well the price is right... you only need to mount one to check clearance. Someone else no doubt has done this and will check in.