montana tom

Bad deal , that overheat... how hot? Good to confirm your scanner is OK. Spark plugs will show you something and while they are all out I would do a compression test if you can.

Pull the spark plugs see what they show.

Not sure why the scanner isn't working... but with the backfires, I would look at the timing belt, if that is in time then , I would swap out the cam and or crank sensor with known working ones. Then check compression ,it could be valve lash... anybody checked the valve adjustment EVER ? Common on this motor for the exhaust valves to go tight and burn the valve seat. That shouldn't keep it from starting though, just run like shxt. Have you tried that scanner on another car ?

Head gasket. Turbo would blow a cloud of white if it was leaking. Bright light , inspect the bottom side of the heads where they meet the block, chances are you will spot a very small drip. If you don't see one look on your exhaust system for stains. That engine if the head gaskets leak it will be external.They drip on the exhaust burn off and leave the slight smell of anti freeze.

Try using ethanol free premium fuel if it is available. Makes a difference for my subi's

Well .. what is it ? year ? Model? color ? air pressure ?

Why they reproduce of course! Darn my photo didn't attach. Edit) tried again ... must be considered over 18 adult content... LOL or may be its too big.

Check coolant, if full, I would get a new subaru thermostat for it. Weird it has only done it by the factory's... Maybe secret government facility. Beware !

Not heard it... Don't believe it.

Heater not working well means you need more coolant. Filling from the radiator is a very slow process. I fill the engine from the upper rad hose, then fill the rad and it still takes time to get coolant thru the whole system. There is a sensor plug in on the coolant crossover pipe you may have forgotten too plug in. Located under intake manifold on the pass side , near the main electrical connectors .The fuel gauge ?? who knows... you could have fried something by shorting... its possible but I doubt it.

From your description , I would have to say your trans is shot. Triple check the throwout fork for cracking / bending but.... I'm thinking its DOA

Amsoil makes awesome products! Is the Wix considered an acceptable replacement over the factory screw on filter ? I was under the impression that none of the replacement filters were even close to the quality of stock.

Double check your connections are tight. Passive bleeding procedure. Fill master cly. Open the bleeder on the rt rear . Pour a cup of coffee ... sit down and wait. Fluid should start to flow ... close bleeder , let the same thing happen on the left rear. Check pedal . If necessary do the same in front. If you get fluid gravity flow at all wheels and still have no pedal and no leaks , suspect your master.

The last place I install the belt is the pass. side upper idler . start the bolt well but leave it loose. This allows some slack, also the rt side cam is unloaded .I start with it just off from in time and allow it to roll the that last little bit into time as the belt slips over. Some folks leave the pass side lower idler off completely until they have the belt in place ... never helped me but may help you. Be sure to tighten all idlers before releasing tensioner, roll crank around two complete revolutions by hand to check timing marks and your good to go.

My guess... Ice buildup at the selector switch keeping it from traveling all the way into park.

Run an add in craigs list under auto parts and another under subarus for sale by owner. Offer the whole car for a good price. Depending on how fast you want to move it ,realistically if clean with gd tires and a clean free title it should be worth 1500.00 but you may ask to get 2000.000 , you also may only get offered $500.00. On a C.L. sale only take cash .

95 has no obd 2 , makes things a little harder to work out. Your knock sensor is a likely suspect for sudden poor fuel economy. Easy to change , other than getting that darn connector unsnapped. No need for OE hit ebay or rock auto for one. Low fuel light should have no bearing on poor performance. If it seems to run smooth ,no shakes then try changing the knock sensor.

I always prefer oe ,available on line around 75 bucks. The 2.2 is more forgiving than the 2.5's and the felpro should work fine.But personal choice for me would still be oe.

Any engine you locate , jdm or us .. you will need the crank and cam gear swamped over from the original engine. Swapping the intake manifold is 8 bolts, a few wires and a couple of small water and fuel lines. Changing head gaskets is just a good idea on any used subi engine that you don't know the history of. A good timing kit is 200-250 with all the correct parts. Not changing those parts is like playing Russian roulette till the last try... eventually your going to lose. The 2.0 is a good engine with a 5 speed behind it, with an automatic its more doggy.You can look on CR.list for a crashed low mile car with a good engine.. but you still will need the original crank and cam gear from your original motor and the intake should go on as well.You also still need to replace the timing components for piece of mind. No matter what way you go its not cheap. As far as the egr. If your original engine has one you need it, if it does not and the new engine is tapped for one ,simply block it off.

I'm Confused... (normal state for me ) You should have to put your foot on the brake pedal to shift from park to drive ??? I drive stick shifts , but most all auto trans will not come out of park without your foot on the brake.... you mentioned that the "power"light flashed ??? Did you mean the auto trans light ? Europe market cars may have differences from the american market.We do not have a power light. As Lucky Tex asked, have you tried cold starting the engine in neutral , then shifting to drive ? As stated the coolant temp sensor could be malfunctioning, not telling the ecu the engine is cold.

Check how tight the lines at your fuel filter and fuel rail are. Common issue in cold weather. They leak when cold and stop leaking quickly as it warms up. For code 420, There is a fix out there that works at least 50% of the time. Buy 2 , 18 mm spark plug anti fouler s, drill one out with a 1/2" drill . Remove the rear o/2 censer. Screw it into the drilled out anti foul... gently tighten. Screw that into the undrilled anti foul & again gently tighten (this is aluminum not stainless steel) Screw that whole assembly into your cat. Clear code and see if it comes back.... This keeps the rear o/2 warm and so the temp reading to the ecm does not spike. Its a cheap fix when it works.

Morris; I have several spare flex plates sitting in my shop. Good chance one is what you are looking for. Post measurements and I will see if I have one.

I have installed numerous jdm engines since the 1990's .Most were in subi's, they are fine engines for what you are buying.....( nothing beats a real rebuild) In over 25 years I had one engine (a toyota) go bad ... About 3 weeks and it threw a rod.... replacement by jdm company was swift with no questions asked. That block and head are still sitting in the engine shed, the head is actually still good.

Yes, that should work.

Just changed out all 4 struts on a 2001 obw, both right side struts were shot , both right side tires were going bald ... left side struts still held gas and both left tires still had usable tires. Alignment checked out fine. Yes, bad struts cause tire bounce and wear out tires.