montana tom

Sounds like a classic slipping clutch.

preventing Icing up and it runs thru the iac (idle air control) to tell the ecu what RPM to run the idle at.

We used to have a 1/8 th mile high bank dirt track just down the road. I took an early 80's 4wd hatchback and ran the ea18 engine in the fever four class. I rarely won but I could hit those high banks rite at the bottom and blow by all the 2.5 ford motors ... who would promptly blow rite by me as soon as they hit the straightaway. It was great fun and a bottomless black hole for $ .... Just before they shut down the track I had acquired a early 2.2 & a 2wd auto trans for it . Had to modify the intake to use a 500 cfm holley carb . Used a Mitsubishi points distributor on the back of the head.... home made headers, it was quite the set up . Sadly they shut down the track before I got all the bugs worked out. Everybody is correct these just are not high performance motors until you step up to the wrx/sti . Good luck on the track keep the rubber side down.

I can only guess that one of the original hoses ruptured ... and he didn't have replacement but he did have spare fuel line. Nothing good can come from doing this.

only use an original subaru thermostat on it. The parts house ones are not worth your time.

Hard pedal.. is the vacuum booster working ?

Think the final drive is different ratio, check the tranny numbers on line .

Nothing unusual about them. They will practically gravity bleed themselves given enough time. If the master cyl. had air you would not be getting a hard pedal. I have never used a special order on bleeding although i'm sure that there is one.

Burp your cooling system.A properly running subi should hold the exact same place on your gauge at all times when warmed up. Exception's for extreme temps are ok. A new sending unit could read at a different location but it should remain rock solid ! Burp your system ,if its full maybe your thermostat is failing ? Electric fans working ?

charcoal canisters can sometimes be slowly dried out . If it has a bad valve it will need replaced. O.E. is nice but very costly . I have found that rock auto is the place to get your evap parts.

Read a post here a while back. Somebody took an old fuel cap ... drilled a hole thru from the top... attached a hose nipple with silicon ... put a garden hose on the nipple .... sat back a good ways ... lit his cigar... and blew the smoke thru the cap down into the evap system ... where the smoke came out was the bad spot... I have never tried this ... could work...

Proper adjustment is in the rear like a drum brake. yes they can and do wear out but normally adjustment will fix it.

Rather common unfortunately. several things it can be, all in the evap system. The charcoal canister could be flooded with fuel ... or the valve just behind the canister could be malfunctioning. or the purge solinoid under the hood (probably not) since you didn't mention hard starting. Start at the canister.

2005 engine is a drive by wire motor. No physical connection with your foot. You would need the throttle pedal assembly as well as the ecu and harness. 2004 back non calf. 2.5 sohc engines have a real throttle cable on them.

Check your lug nuts !

I've ordered from Heuberger's e-bay several times recently and gotten very fast shipping of OE parts at a very good price. Subaru parts direct at ebay is another good one.

Easy way to check the fans is to turn on the A/C , both fans should run. My wife's 01 started heating when pushed hard uphill. a check of the fans showed that the secondary had blown a fuse.. new fuse no more overheat. Your 2.2 is not prone to HG failure (but it can happen) and in my opinion a plugged heater core will not cause an overheat either. You have changed the radiator/ subi thermostat / waterpump... not much left... confirm the fan are working ... if they are, then you can try bypassing the core but order your subaru head gaskets promptly

Are both electric fans working ?

I'm thinking it was embedded in the plastic of the old one.

The gold tooth thing needs to come off the threaded shaft. Vice grips from the top , wiggle and pull... might need to pry up from the bottom at the same time.

I just looked ,Rock auto has them.

Nice build, thanks for sharing. I will say that currently I like the look of your buddy's wagon .

Sounds like fun... throw some of those bikes up on the roof. Mount your rear hitch high for ground clearance. Heck throw a hitch on the front as well ! As everybody has said "It Won't Last ! " But who cares.... your doing this for the hxll of it . Look at some air bags for the rear , airum up if you need more suspension. Larger tires cost more money... forest service roads tear them up. Use whats cheap and readily available. I have heard about dual range trannys for that year coming out of japan.... you could really cruise in low range... HAVE FUN ! EDIT; Oh yea... if you remove the back hatch and drive up a dusty dry mountain road you better have dust mask's for everyone to wear...

Just replaced the purge valve on a 04 obw. Same symptoms, poor running after fueling. It had larger size vacuum lines than the earlier years, electric plugs were the same. On the 04 the valve was easily accessed... on the 02 & back it is on the bottom side of the manifold, slightly harder to get to. This valve is normally closed , you should not be able to blow thru it. There are 2 vacuum lines going to it , one with direct manifold vacuum and the other is the smaller line running next to the fuel filter. Disconnect the vacuum lines and see if you can blow thru it or not. If you can replace it! If you can't then it "may be OK " I would buy this from a wrecking yard that I could go to... online .... up to you. Look on your local craigs list for somebody parting one out.

Good point Fairtax , I never even considered the different axles... For a clutch I always pull the motor out instead.