montana tom

Jeff , start at the rear hatch. That year group is known for broken /shorted wires, coming from the body to the hatch. The rubber tube connecting roof to hatch should be peeled back and wires inspected... hopefully you'll find your short there.

Same Job , you won't run into anything new. Make sure to put a quality clutch in , like an exedy. I just put one in an outback the other day ... $176.00 delivered from ebay.

If you just snapped the bolts they may come out very easily . Do it right ... remove the pump and deal with those bolts now. Imagine if it starts to leak on your 20 mile drive ... what if it pumps all your oil out in a minute or two ? It's not worth the risk.

When its important to have the right part , I buy my subaru OE gaskets from subarupartsdirect on ebay average cost on head gaskets is about 75 bucks

Most likely they stripped the bolt or just over tightened it and walked away... Some people should never touch a wrench. Pistons should be fine, new head gaskets, new valves and seals and you should be good to go. Oh yea you'll have to give your mechanic a pail full of $ as well...

Tensioner bolt snapped while running ??? never heard of that before. Yes most likely you have bent valves. Amazing it runs. Do a compression test or pop a valve cover and see if the valves are staying compressed. The section of the block where the tensioner mounts is replaceable.

Have you checked the vacuum booster ?

Hmm, in that case they put in a mph speedo with a Celsius temp gauge . No difference, buyer is happy his speedo is mph and could care less that temp is Celsius.

Finally got a look at the trans # on the Canadian 02 obw After a little searching "TZ1A4ZCDBA-RM" Is the same transmission used in the us cars. 4:44 differential . I'm curious that if they replaced the instrument cluster to get a mph speedo , then why the Celsius temp gauge ? I'm wondering if the Vancouver , BC market gets mph speedos because of the proximity to the US ??

Easy to overfill a subi automatic. My guess is the seller thought it was low when not heated up so he added and ended up over filling. Overfull tranny will leak but usually at the tail shaft. Clean up the mess and find where that oil is coming from.

No on the 3.0 and interestingly enough the speedo is mph with kph in the back and the odometer reads miles. But the temp is in Celsius ...and the under hood sticker says Canadian emissions ? Odd ... I don't have the car here as its sold, so I will have to get the tranny number as soon as I can. I do remember it matches the vin plate #. I will try a goggle on the tranny # asap.

electric fans working ? If so your probably looking at head gaskets.

Hi guys; Bought a 02 outback wagon recently. This car was produced in the US but was built for the BC market. I'm wondering about the final drive ratio. This car has lower rpm readings than any other automatic US outback I've driven. 75 mph and its pulling 2000 rpm's... all others run closer to 3000 rpm... Tire size is stock outback 225x60x16 ??? Did produced for Canada outback get the 4:11 final drive , like a US legacy ? All the US outback's seem to have the 4:44 ratio... How can I decode the tranny code or the rear diff. ? With the current set up this car is getting 29-30 mpg ... much better than my MT outbacks that run a steady 26-27 mpg. Customer is wanting a replacement tranny and I want to confirm things beforehand, any help is appreciated !

I would source another crank gear rather than trying another repair. Does the comp show any codes ? In Australia you are offered different options than we are limited to in the US . Twin turbos ... diesel engines ... they even have slightly different names, but they are still all subarus under the sheet metal. I don't think the outbacks here used the coil igniter at all,(i could be wrong) I remember them on 90's impreza's . Many others out there with more knowledge than me about electrical issues ,hopefully one of them can help you.

I suspect the crank gear with the broken / repaired tooth. Also the left side cam gear must match the ecu. Crank gear and cam gear must stay with the ecu.

Try to start it , in the dark.

Upstate new york, late sept... Did you have the temp turned up for winter ? We have gone from raging fires to snow on the mountain. Check the things suggested by Imdew. Have the codes read on your car (auto zone) its possible it's not even coolant related.

Vapor canister purge valve. Located on intake manifold. Small part, way over priced. The under hood vacuum sticker should show you the location. Look back a few pages here on this forum for a post entitled 2004 obw code 1443 , it will have a picture of the offending part. If you have a wrecking yard nearby I would look for a used part.

Might check your valve adjustment, in 04 I believe it is .16 intake and .21 exhaust

Yes , that is the one. Spendy little thing to buy even from rock auto. I would have gone used but the wrecking yards are 2 hrs away.

^ Agreed on the water pump and thermostat (only subaru on this part) and brus brother is also right on suggesting a good look at the head gaskets , if they are not leaking the subaru conditioner can stop/delay it.

Close enough, I think 105,000 is factory suggested. However midas would NOT be my first choice of a subaru shop. That said, whomever works on it for you, make very sure they are installing only parts made in japan... preferably subaru . Parts with a normally good american name brand may end up being manufactured in china... All the parts must be replaced, not just belt,water pump & seal. The tensioner and all thee idler's MUST be done at the same time. Both cam seals and the ft. crank seal should be done as well. This is an interference motor .... poor quality parts will leave you on the side of the road with bent valves and a big headache dealing with the new repair. I recommend looking for a shop that is used to working on subarus , talk to them first and see what parts they suggest and if they install only high quality Japanese parts.

Had some more evap issues with this car... gota "love" calf. emissions ! No codes and no trouble pumping fuel in , but after filling , it was hard starting and running poorly for a few minutes. A check of the canister purge solenoid showed it was stuck open , a direct vacuum leak from the throttle body to the fuel tank ... No wonder it acted flooded with a full tank of fuel ... it was ! Again a 2004 part won't work properly, it takes a 2005. Luckily the one I need is $60 the other is $95.

Make sure the crank gear matches .

M-10 x 1.25 bolts the tensioner assembly to the engine. If your dealing with stripped threads , be aware that the section of block it bolts to is removable and replaceable . Much safer than tapping a stripped hole. If you are referring to the replaceable section of block ... bolts are M-8 x 1.25