montana tom

Loctite makes one and I've used bostik marine grade (seem's to work very well.) The copper has been around for years and i have never noticed any difference.

They stopped using them around 99-00 .If it has one it should be behind the throttle body on or near the firewall.

Fuel filter is located on drivers side just in front of the strut.3 rubber lines . Mark lines as you remove them for proper replacement. Fuel pump is in the fuel tank.

fyi; The newest gates kits now have partial china sourced parts. Not all do, but enough that you must look at each bearing & the belt to confirm country of origin. Amazon will tell you they are all japan parts... they may not be. With an interference motor be very sure of your parts. By the way I think that the crank keyway should be down when crank is proper for checking timing, but I go by the timing marks not the key.

You haven't mentioned the timing. If it jumped ... that is an interference motor.

No, this is new one to me. I'm thinking that the "guide was used from 2000 up on 2.5 mt tranny cars... could be wrong. I would suspect the tensioner, try swapping a new one in.

Pretty sure they all red line at 6000, at least the common ones in the 90's . newer sti may have a higher red line. 96 2.2 is the best engine subi made (imo) BUY IT.

Hi ; yes, it is highly likely that temp is running fine but sensor is sending false signal to computer . Interesting it is sending a crank sensor signal. And a IAT sensor but no Coolant Temp signal. Are all grounds well connected and clean ?

Code 22 ? I have never heard of. Have you changed the coolant temp sensor ? Bad mileage is a symptom of the computer not knowing how cold or hot the engine is. Located on the water jacket, pass side behind the intake manifold , Has a brown 3 wire connector. One wire controls the temp gauge in the car the other two inform the computer what temp the engine is running.

They all eventually fail... but leak externally. Slow coolant and oil drips that find their way onto the exhaust and smell. You can live with this a long time, as long as you keep the coolant / oil topped up and don't mind the smell. However if he doesn't keep the fluids topped, it will overheat and need head gaskets and... that is also the main cause of rod bearings going out. On this particular car I would confirm the timing belt job included all rollers and that quality japan parts were used.+

Looks like a clean car , although I think that 3500 is high for a car that is needing tires and will need head gaskets within 30,000 or so miles. I would offer 2500 to 3000 for it. I should also add that in my opinion sedans do not handle the snow & ice as well as the wagon does..... I'm sure there are others who prefer a sedan over a wagon.

A good tune up never hurts. Is it cranking but not firing ? When its 10 below zero mine might start and die on the first try and then start and run rough for 30 seconds or so. Now my 94 2.2 with 300,000+ on it , takes a little longer ... might even need a jump... of course the battery is 7 years or more, old amazing it works at all below zero. Your in southern fairfield county it almost never gets near zero there.

Confusing... but sounds like its time for a complete brake job , at least rotors calipers & pads in the front and wouldn't hurt to look close at the rear.

If its an automatic awd then trailer only, if its a stick shift put it in neutral and tow away .Lots of things from a plugged intake tube ,or a failing maf can cause those symptoms. IMO A running ej-22 is worth $300 but after driving there I would pull out and offer $250 and see if cash talks .

To check the timing on this motor you will need both sides of the plastic cover off. This will require removing the crank pully.... Edit: Is the check engine light on ? Do you have a way to read the codes on the computer ?

I can't think of any fuel lines on the passenger side of an american car ? But disconnect the line that comes from the center of the fuel filter at the intake, (should be the top one) turn on key and fuel should come out. If not ,then most likely the fuel pump . You haven't mentioned code reading... any codes stored could point you in the right direction. As far as buying lots of parts... fuel pump is costly but can be stored if you don't need it. fuel filter is always a good idea, buy 2 put one on and one on the shelf. Crank sensor I would wait on , same with fuel pump relay. The temp sensor I like to keep on the shelf as its quite easy to bump one when pulling the intake and that old plastic likes to break. While it crosses my mind its not like -20 outside is it ? Deep cold does strange things to metal and plastic and our wonderful ethanol fuel they sell is known for not liking sub zero weather. Could be froze fuel lines ??

Disconnect one of those new fuel lines and see if you have fuel. Odd that it coughs but will not on ether. Could be it jumped time... Have to pull the crank pulley & covers to check.

Do yourself a favor and do not use the dayco ! The box is made in usa the belt is from china. Same with the rollers make sure they are japan made if not... REPLACE them NOW ! Like Dave said it will bend every valve WHEN, not if they fail !

Your valve cover is an "o" ring it doesn't need sealant. Your head gaskets were/are leaking externally on that motor. P420 was most likely your code ,it can be caused by many things . But it is not the head gaskets. Make sure you put japan made timing parts only . No gates kits from amazon ... they are using some parts sourced from china! Pay more and get good oe quality parts or you will not be happy.

Putting in the fuse will make it run in 2wd. It wont fix the problem, so your light will keep flashing . Replace the tail shaft section of the tranny with a known good one, and the light will go out.

Could be a security system,have them check the owners manual , reset button usually under drivers side dash.

I can guess what happened, Timing belt was changed at least one time. When they did the install they did not tighten the crank bolt enough.. later it came loose and in the process buggered up the bolt, and probably the radiator as well. (i've seen this) Rather than try to find a new good bolt and a tap they just use some locktite red and a 2' ratchet and never never look at it again... good thing this is a noninterference motor.

Hard to say. Doesn't sound deep like a rod, but you got something going on. Pull the valve cover on the rt side. Visually inspect if something is loose in there. Run the motor with it off for a moment to confirm if your problem is there or not. Do you know the history of your donor motor ? A rod or main knock sound will be in the block not the head.

Car was running fine, then cel came on and car continued to run OK ? Low coolant code. Was coolant low ? You clear the code , run it twenty minutes , shut it down ,restart same thing , all good ...go to bed . Next morning normal routine and car cranks but will not fire ? Did you try to the hold the pedal to the floor ? Not all subi's that are 21 years old will have 160 psi but 80 is unacceptable. At 80 psi your wife would have come home and said it had no power. Sounds like to me like Texan is on the right track , fuel is washing your cylinders . Check your oil ... is it overfull ? Smell like gas ? I think your year has 2 separate sending units ,a one wire for the dash and a 2 wire for comp. The 2 wire could be sending faulty signals to the computer.

Its called torque bind and Its in the output from your trans. Duty C solenoid, and clutches. Rebuild or get a used tail section . Not that hard to install with trans still in car. Search for posts.