montana tom

No the 2.2 is good on head gaskets unless you get it hot. head bolts are reusable as well. Easy easy motor to work on . wouldn't hurt to put new seals and head gaskets on one anyway.

Timing belt breaks at any rpm and there is zero damage to the motor ! starting in 1996 all 2.5 subi motors are interference . Break a belt... bend the valves ! 2.2 motors became interference sometime in the 97 up years, not sure when exactly. Not heard of a dual range for these

Great choice ! 96-90 2.2 non interference motor. Not the most powerful ,but in my opinion the best motor subi ever made! I have a 94 , 5 mt... its my ranch rig , hauls everything from straw and grain to deer and elk. Just runs and runs. I have 2 spare motors for it but the original, 300,000 + just keeps going and going like the energizer bunny ! She doesn't look very pretty anymore and sends most of her time parked in the field but she is a cherished part of our subaru fleet.

Fact, If the computer can't sense the cam it can not signal the injectors. As far as the spark... I'm guessing here but i suspect the computer wont signal the coil at that point either.

Just checked ebay they range from $9-25 bucks. Then I checked subaruparts direct and they only had listed one for the impreza but it was oe and cost was $240. Buy the cheap one , save your original , if your problem is fixed but china part fails, you will have the stock one to reinstall. At that point I would put a new original equip. in.

Testing never has worked for me, its always been faster /easier to just to locate a known working one or pop both sensors out from a wrecking yard. If one of those sensors has failed it will not send a spark signal. If you had broken wings on the crank gear it would get a spark and try to run but not succeed. Have you tried a different coil ?

Little more info please. Is this a 2.5 dohc ? Was car running fine then just stopped ? Was any work performed ? Still sounds like cam/crank sensor to me ... If you have access to known working sensors (like your buddys car) you could try switching. You said timing covers are off ? Or just the outer covers ? You may need to confirm all the timing marks. While you are in there inspect the ears on the crank sprocket make sure all is good with it.

Good thing you were close to home ! New rebuild and all !

I was quite lost without it. I kept coming back thinking any minute it would be there ! Why would somebody want to hack a subaru forum ?

Most likely it is the crank gear, but once you are in there remove and check left (driver) side cam gear as well. Job is basic timing belt R&R , only your not replacing the belt. Once belt is removed carefully slide cogged gear off crankshaft snout, the number of and placement of the (ears) at the rear are the signal points for the crankshaft senser... DON'T BREAK THEM BY PRYING . The rear side of the left cam gear will have magnetic pickup points as well , it must match the original. Only the originals (or matching ) will work with your cars computer.

Sounds like low coolant to me. Where are you checking your coolant level ? The overflow tank is not the place. Must open the radiator cap (engine cool) to know how full you are. Your heater core could be leaking as said OR... your head gaskets could be externally leaking onto the cat. 2002 ej25 are known for this.

Hi AJ ; Your 2006 probably has 200,000 miles or less ? You will know when you are lapping the valves how good the seat is. Look for the grey line, if its solid and even all the way around your good to go. I would not replace the valves unless they are not seating. Unless you are building a high rpm turbo rally motor, I would not worry about a three angle valve job or stem height. You would not take enough off with lapping to change anything. Compression nor timing will change. If your pulling the valves yourself you will need a torx plus tp40 , the cam covers are tight ! regular torx will strip it. Also your valve spring compressor may have trouble fitting in the small area . If you are splitting the case then be sure to buy NEW subaru only sealing washers and o rings inside the case or you may leak water into the oil. On rebuild only put Japanese made parts in for timing components ... be sure they are not made in china !!!! you will be very sorry if they are.

Pull that head off . If it was me I would pull the motor... but can be done in the car , just have to undo motor mounts and lift motor. If your motor wasn't producing large amounts of blow by when running , then most likely you will find a burned valve.

Check compression. Low on one cylinder ? You may have a bad valve. If that year has adjustable valves then check valve adjustment, you might get lucky.

In my opinion, No , they will total your car out every time. They want you in a NEW car! Then they can soak you on purchase cost , insurance cost , depending on your state the licence plate cost. Its a scam in my opinion. Pay yourself and fix your car and your title won't say totaled ! Only time to have collision is on a brand new car , I drop mine as soon the car is paid off.

Lot of changes between 92-96 , i'm guessing here, but I doubt it could communicate with the ecm. Others may have done a similar swap and have more info for you.

I wouldn't , at a $40.00 replacement cost how many years did the old one last ? I'm sure you can weld that better than new but...why bother ? You would be very bummed if it broke and took out the transmission and or the block ...

I would look closely at the throw out fork , they have been known to crack.

Check and clean your grounds. At the battery remove and clean both the posts and cable ends . make sure connections are tight at the starter. Check voltage properly at the positive starter terminal ,should be 12 + at rest and no less than 10 vt if it is cranking. Clicking is usually low voltage bad ground or a faulty solenoid.

I recently put in a dayco timing kit in a 2006. The belt itself didn't fail ... the roller on the tensioner did , went 50 miles and seized ! MADE IN CHINA !!! Bent all the valves! I now will only put in a subaru belt or a belt & kit made in japan.

You popped a cam seal or crank seal . Happens sometimes. No biggie , if you have a new one use it . Otherwise the old one is most likely just fine. I use a light coat of aircraft gasket goop on the outside edge and do not drive it all the way to the back of the housing.

If you have room to store your "test" stand out of the weather I see no reason it couldn't work . You could have issues with the computer on your stand not matching the cam & crank signals from the motor. Of course it's mighty easy to just bolt it up in the car you want it in and see how it sounds. You'll be bolting and connecting to your test stand then unbolting and doing it all over to install anyway.

ebay item number 141665882014 O. E. 2.2 subaru head gaskets $ 81.99 delivered

Very nice, lots of good info there !

None of the polishes that i have seen work very long. Cost of replacement housings is down , looks like $150 a pair on ebay for your year group. I polished mine on a 2000 obw ... lasted a month... bought replacement housings and WOW clear lenses really light things up. Yes , all these are coming out of china and the bulbs are junk, put your original bulbs in before installing. You won;t be sorry.