montana tom

Wow this is a tricky one. I'm wondering if your transmission has a bad shift fork or bearings, maybe a broken shaft inside. No way should it have behaved like that in neutral. Your heating problem could have a lot to do with your transmission binding up. I assume you have checked the dipstick on the trans and its full ?Might be a good idea to pull the drain plug and check for metal. I could be completely off base about your heating issue ... but until you fix the transmission no need to worry about it heating up.

There should be power leaving the switch after activating it. If not see if you can locate another switch to try, wrecking yard, your buddys car , the neighbor if their not home... lol

Is the left side cam sprocket the same one that came with the car? Crank sprocket the same ? The cam sensor you put in to try , came out of a running car ?

Said you tested the at the lights for voltage , did you check at the switch also ?

Did they work before? They only come on with low beams & go off if you switch to brights.

Not sure if the 06 has pins on the rear axles. But I recommend buying a 3/16th long punch anyway .... makes those roll pins a piece of cake.

I wouldn't do it on an 2.5 motor ... but on a non interference 2.2 , other than losing a finger .... nothing much would happen. Some offroader's say it keeps snow and mud from building up under the plastic.

Sometimes the exhaust system hides them . 14mm socket and wobble extension should get them.

2006 outback driving down road at 70 mph , check engine light comes on ... car looses all throttle response (goes to idle) coast to side of road. Engine idles just fine but will not accelerate. A few times of starting and stopping engine and it suddenly starts working... proceeds to drive 50 miles home without a care. Next day it starts fine and drives 25 miles more to my shop. Code 2138 shows on the computer, throttle position sensor. Testing showed all working correctly (of course, it drove there) A little checking around on line and i find multiple posts of this complaint. One site recommended reporting it to a safety group in the hope that subaru would own up and fix what could be a life threatening situation. Imagine running 80 mph in the middle of a six lane road and suddenly you lose all throttle... Repair suggestions are vague at best , some think its the connector at the TB servo others swear its the accelerator pedal assembly or connector. Nobody seemed to have a certain fix. Most seemed to change the accelerator assembly and did not report back if that is a permanent fix. Customer wants this fixed, we are way to far out in the boonies to have her car just die with young children with her... She is willing to buy new sensors at several hundred dollars but I'm not willing to gamble, that is the fix... only to have her call from the side of the road if its not! Anybody here had a similar problem?

Hard to say... looks like one of the under dash rods for a clutch linkage. EDIT; Guess not , after reading coryl's post, with closer inspection of the photo it says something about removing after towing.

Rebuild it. Splitting the case seems daunting but its not bad at all. Make sure you have a heavy duty 1/2 " drive 14mm 12 point (snapon calls it the subaru head bolt socket) A ,TP-40 torx plus for the head caps. And buy subaru case o rings and block sealing washers as well as only subaru head gaskets. Good project for you & the boy.

My mail ladies husband contacted me about replacing the heater core on their 96 postal. Knowing what was involved, I asked him about having the correct core for the job... he assured me after careful checking with parts house about postal cars he had the correct one.... (Famous last words) As I suspected would happen, after 3 hrs gutting the dash to get to the heater unit , the "Correct" one wouldn't even fit in the housing. I looked on line myself and 98% of cores were wrong. The only ones that appeared to be correct were O.E. and cost $230-330. I called owners and informed them what I had found. I suggested taking old core to a rad shop and have them remove tubes (not bolted on like US versions) and fit them to a core that would fit in the housing. After a few hours they called back and had decided to have one sent from the dealer... next Wednesday at the soonest. OH well, I just love a complex job that has to wait a week ... my memory is sooo good these days. Morel of this post ... IF ITS POSTAL CALL THE DEALER FIRST !

I agree with ferret, Inspect drive line carefully.

Check compression and check cold valve adjustment, Switch plug wires around see if miss moves.

Replace your spark plugs with NGK's replace your spark plug wires with quality parts and finally check your cold valve adjustment.

Yes, Antifreeze is needed even down south, or you get rust. If you are very lucky a thermostat could help. Only install a subaru thermostat , its heavy duty. Thermostat is at the engine end of the lower radiator hose , two bolts. You will lose all your fluid when doing this . Refill from the top hose until motor is full then connect to radiator and finish by filling the radiator. Water pump is under timing cover , you cant see it and it most likely isn't your problem. If you are not lucky then your looking at head gaskets...

Its not always just the latch unit that is sticking. There is a pivot point on the linkage that also rusts up. I replaced our sticking latch, thinking my problems were solved... Not so, It stuck on the first try !!! Further investigation found the rusty pivot point. $10 at the wrecking yard and the "new " latch works like it should

Manual trannys do best in the mountains , but yes, just shift down your automatic, its no different than downshifting a stickshift. Most of the 4 cly subis lack head snapping power. But they run & run & run, they also go just about anywhere. Let him drive what he has ... he'll let you know if he thinks he needs a "better" one.

Willow; Anytime your engine is running your daytime headlights will be on. Try this at night, If you turn on your headlight switch, low beams should get significantly brighter. If not something is wrong. Go back to your dealer to JUST to check the lights , no oil change no nothing , please fix my lights. You have them ,they started daytime running lights on the 2000 year group.

Sounds dangerous. Have you checked other 2010 cars to see if they are the same ? Daytime driving lights use less voltage in the hope your low beam bulbs will last longer, they are much dimmer. Could your car be somehow stuck in the daytime position ?

I put K&N cleanable filters in the stock housings on my 00 & 01 obw. Clean them, oil them and they last "forever" on the flip side don't clean and oil them and your lifetime filter will destroy your engine in short order.

Top nut is easy after you have the strut out. Vice grips reach in, lock on and keep the chrome rod from spinning. Pay close attention to the top hat assembly make sure its in good shape before reassembly.

Only time I did it, I simply looked the unit over, chose what I thought were the correct screws and just took the metal cover off... I got lucky... without the cover on I could retrieve my cds. Screws back in and the unit even worked afterwards ! I doubt that you will find any info on disassembly , but maybe ... After all they don't want you to repair it ! Good luck

my 00 obw had the same symptoms, only on cly 4. Car ran great as long as you were moving. At idle it would shake the engine. Did plugs, wires and the coil , car still idled and ran great just shook around at idle. I finally did a compression test ... sure enough 180 psi quickly in all but # 4 ... it had 120 psi after extra cranking. I had a rebuilt 2.5 engine that i had assembled for the wifes car... its now in mine... I'm currently disassembling the other. Short diagnostic is one bad exhaust valve on # 4 I haven't pulled the valves yet to see exactly what was going on.

No, as you discovered there is no easy way to remove ball joints .Best to use a pickle fork on the ball joint / control arm . The big hammer method does work in some applications , but not very well on ball joints. As mentioned the pinch bolt can be frozen and break... at least it can be dealt with. Now the sob portion is getting it out of the knuckle, vice grips ... hammers ... big chisels to spread the knuckle ,small chisels to force that little lip down. lots of high quality penetrating oil (Kano Kroil ) small amounts of blood... lots of cussing...hopefully no smashed fingers. Yea, they can be a no fun at all ... reassemble with lots of anti seize. Also do them one side at a time , less stress that way.