montana tom

Denso is the oem manufacturer , do yourself a favor and look on rock auto parts for your o/2 they have much more reasonable prices on name brand parts.

Find a bolt with the correct threads and plug the petcock hole, you don't need it. To drain, remove lower rad hose at thermostat housing, Messy but fast. To refill connect lower hose & remove upper hose from radiator. Pour antifreeze directly into upper hose until antifreeze is at upper hose (your block is now full) connect upper hose to rad, then fill radiator.

Do you smell anti freeze ? If your heater core is leaking enough to fog the windows then you WILL smell antifreeze . No smell then look for a/c drip.

Apparently in europe it is common to leave your running lights on when leaving your car temporarily on the side of the road at night..... Why you would want to do that is beyond me but it must be a popular thing to do if subaru built all their vehicles this way.

Look for and watch several youtube videos on splitting & reassembling the case. Biggest problem I ran into was the case bolts are really on there, Had to use an assistant to hold the case and a very powerful 1/2 " impact to get them free. Metric allen wrench (large) can't remember what size, you'll need it to access the piston pins. Small internal slide hammer is nice for getting the pins out but can be done without. Regular piston ring expander, and ring compressor. Plastic gauge to check bearing clearances. I'm sure others will offer additional tips.

IF it is the bearings then the oil pump will do next to nothing. Sadly subaru bearings are not all sized the same ... you must disassemble to find out what size they put in yours ....crazy... If the rods haven't spun then good chance the crank should be ok. Really LONG day to split a subi case and do a rebuild and reassemble, they definitely are not a chevy S.B.

Hate to say, but low pressure usually ends up being bearings. Having said that, for apx 154.00 bucks you can get a brand new subaru high volume oil pump on ebay from subarupartsonline ( 131638875556 ) Yours should not be weak after only 150,000 miles but it could be. If it is bearings and you choose to rebuild then having that new oil pump will be money well spent.

You probably won't be happy with a 2.0, they work well but need lots of rpms to do what the 2.5 does, standard transmissions work much better than an automatic with this swap. Not sure about the manifold swap. Rather than ebay just search for japanese takeout motors (same ones on ebay but hopfully closer to your home) I'm sure that a large city near you will have an outlet. Best choice if you like your car and want another 250,000 miles is call (colorado component rebuilders)(http://ccrengines.com/ these are not cheap but are a quality rebuild by a shop that only rebuilds subi motors.

In the past on ebay I found and bought a complete set of japanese made valves for about $65 ... pop them in smooth the heads and bolt them up.Beware the (kits) that sell everything you could want...gaskets, valves, guides , timing belt ..... most if not all are china junk. Or check out the japanese take out motors. They are readily available on the coast. Install the whole thing or pull the heads and save the short block.

VERY Good point about the MAF, and oiled filters, i had never thought of that.. My 2000-2001 obw's both have K&N's but no maf. 987687 is correct about the hot air in the engine bay... won't matter when your doing 100 mph but at idle and in town it won't help, will hurt. Find a way to plumb the outside air to that filter and it will help. Oh and throw a set of headers on that...if your hot rodding it.When you make it get more air it needs to exhaust as well. And then of course you need cams then nitrus oxide...then ....a lot more ! But before all that put a roll cage and a 6 point racing harness in it... fast cars eventually crash.... LOL sorry , its that old thing again... good luck have fun!

Ugly ? no .. looks like a subi motor to me... I see that it has an upgraded air filter on it. If that is a K&N filter they work great BUT... you must clean and oil it regularly or it it will plug up ... I have seen several people install a k&n (lifetime) filter and never look at it again... its lifetime right ? NO, its not unless you clean and oil it. These same people wonder why there motor only lasts a short while then seizes up. Sounds like you are looking to hot rod this car ? Talk to the folks at colorado component rebuilders. They can tell you what will work and what will just come apart on you. Adding a turbo to this car could be done but it will be a large hassel. Locate a wrx or an sti car already turboed and make it scream. Keep your impreza to go to parts store, then if the hot rod blows up you can still get around. Having said that when I was younger all I did was build and drive hot rods no grocery getter for me... guess i've gotten old... If you want a hot rod, build it , they are expensive but great fun.

To get a bracket for sure , you ask for a loaded caliper, comes with almost everything pads , brackets , caliper if you want to replace your rubber feed lines you will have to order them separate.

Can't say about where in el paso, but what you may want is a japanese take out motor. Low miles, relatively cheap. You swap all the externals over from your original motor. If not that then another option is to go with a complete rebuilt longblock, from a reputable rebuilder like colorado component rebuilders (http://ccrengines.com/) That will get you a motor that should last a good long time. Craigs list for crashed cars or last choice would be a wrecking yard.

My experience with subaru rod knock is, Noticeable clatter at first start up...in yard at apx 3000 rpm noticeable knock . also if you listen closely while driving you should hear the same knock at certain times ( when engine is floating). If this is a jap takeout, it has a warranty. They won't pay your labor unless an extra policy is paid for but they will replace the engine. I have installed 2 dozen or more of these mainly in subi's but toyota & nissan's as well. Only got one motor (toyota) that threw a rod thru the block. Was replaced with hardly any questions asked.... they even let me keep the blown motor (had a perfectly good head) . They can look bad and you have to follow their instructions on removing and replacing everything but compared to a pull and save motor that you have no info about nor a warranty other than if it doesn't run bring it back... I will recommend a takeout motor every time.

2.5 L is a 4cly. Shaking and sounding like a diesel is definitely not normal. Could be any number of things causing it to shake. Depends how much they want for it. 2002 with 60,000 miles if its not rusted out yet & the price is right ... could be a good buy as long as you are equipped to diagnose & fix it.

Floyd; Hopefully it did not get it too hot or there could be head gaskets in your future. Subi's use a heavy duty thermostat that rarely fails. Hopefully you popped a hose for some reason. There are several nearby that could be the culprit. Easiest way to locate a leak is with a cooling system pressure tester. If you don't have access to that, then a poor mans tester is to fill system with fluid... and have your assistant squeeze first the upper rad hose then the lower while you lay underneath getting antifreeze all over your face, looking for the leak. lol not fun but it does work. Remove any skid plate/plastic covers that are in the way , dry everything you can. Add water, if it is a busted major hose it will pour out. If it is say a heater hose then you will need to squeeze to get pressure there. I should mention that the quickest easiest way to fill a subi cooling system up is to remove the upper rad hose from the radiator, pour fluid directly into the hose until the engine is full ... then reconnect hose and finish filling from radiator. Good luck I'm sure others will have other suggestions to help.

one of the starter bolts is an engine/tranny bolt. YES the torque converter must be unbolted from the flywheel , use the inspection hole behind pass side intake manifold, the tranny must be raised , the dog leg removed . I have used a large dull flat blade screwdriver to help persuade engine and tranny to part ways. stuck guide pins are usually to blame be sure to put a swipe of anti seize on them for reassembly.

Could also be a ground wire , that was disconnected for engine removal.

Check the wiring near the battery, look for smaller disconnected wire going to positive terminal .

LOL ; Sorry matt, don't mean to be a bummer. Maybe you will get lucky here. If you can, check compression (not all testers will fit down there) if you can't do that then pull a valve cover, and roll it over. You have to know what your looking for here... so look for the worst (bent valves)and hope for the best (unplugged connector). Not sure how to test the cam/ crank sensor. I'm sure somebody on u-tube shows how. I'm thinking that , you have spark , so you must be getting a signal from the cam/crank sensors. Oh and plugs not wet... stuck open valves and they can't get wet, as the fuel leaves as fast as it arrives. Check Your Valves... You don't want to know but ... you need to Know ! Good luck

That is an interference motor. I have yet to see one break or slip a belt that did not bend the valves. I would pull a valve cover and turn the motor over by hand. If any valves are bent the rockers will be loose. The crank sprocket and left side cam sprocket must absolutely be original to that car. Is it possible the cam sprockets got switched (left & right )? That will make it not try to start. The tabs on the rear of the crank sprocket are also a good place to inspect, if somebody pried that sprocket off it is very easy to snap one off. It has been my experience that if the tabs get broken the car will not run... but... it will try to start, so probably not the crank sprocket. Cam, crank sensors not working should throw a code. In your first post you said the car will not crank without a battery charger helping, even with a new battery ... later you said it is cranking strong ? Did you fix something? Slow cranking without charger help could be an indicator that the bearings are trying to seize up on the crank, although i have not seen that happen on a boxer. Most likely you have bent valves . Pull and save at spaldings should have another motor cheap or maybe a set of heads. Foreign engines in Coeur D alene will have the 2.0 takeout engines available (800-552-1595) around $700 last I checked.

wow, thats a tough one. Did you get to drive it at all or just pull back where it was and shut it off? The sensor you are thinking of is the duty c and it is all the way at the rear of the tranny, so not that. If I were to take a wild guess here I would say you did damage to front pump on the transmission or the torque converter when trying to mount it to the engine. One question , did you unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel first ? I know it sounds like a dumb question but recently, I was called out to a neighbor's house to help him get his motor back in and there it was (looked so stupid) a torque converter bolted to a flywheel with a foot of shaft hanging out there, and he was trying to slide it in the tranny with the motor. I don't know how he even got it out. Luckily for him he gave up early and called for help. We unbolted the torque and slid it in the tranny making sure it was engaging the pump, dropped in the motor and all was well.

Gary is right , I've fixed many deer smashes like yours.As long as the air bags didn't deploy . Pull it straight, bolt what you can and drive it. Of course if you do it yourself, it will never look as good again as it did pre-deer. The thing about hitting a deer, If you don't try to dodge it . As long as you stay on the road and don't hit anything else. It 's not comprehensive...it's considered an act of god and your regular insurance would cover it. Around here hitting a deer is as common as... oh it's snowing again ! Dodge the deer and go off the road or hit a tree and it's reckless driving. No insurance coverage for that... crash into the furry critter knock it rump roast over tea kettle but stay on the road and it's all good.

With the new "glue " they use to install windshields I doubt you could remove one from a wreck. The windshield is now considered an integral part of the body strength and they use a super high power bonder to attach it . Even if you got it out without breaking it would take forever to clean the bonding area up. Just call a glass shop or three and ask prices of the glass and labor.

My 88 1.8 had a noisy tick to it, that sounded like a lifter...came and went whenever it wanted at low rpms . Was so loud at times, people would stop on the street to look at us! Ended up it was the oil pump! I have not had a 2.2 do this but I wouldn't rule it out.