montana tom

When you refill , remove upper hose from the radiator and pour anti freeze directly into the block,after filling the block reconnect upper hose and finish filling from the radiator.As you fill the rad gently squeeze upper hose to get the last of the air out. You wont have an air pocket if you do this.

If you never ran the motor or added fluids ,I would reuse it. Heat as well as pressure is what seats a head gasket, no heat ...then carry on.

After its cold remove upper radiator hose at the radiator and pour antifreeze directly into the hose, until you fill the entire block. Then quickly reattach upper hose to radiator and fill the rest from the radiator cap.

Confirm where the coolant is coming from ... could be a bad cap or the coolant lines to the intake.... might not need head gaskets.

Contact a japanese engine takeout place, they sell transmissions also. I seem to recall a big price difference between an outback and a forester. Its been awhile so I could be mistaken, or could be a year group issue.

Just found one on ebay for a reg. 97 impreza . They are out there just keep looking.

2007 OBW auto trans. This car was giving me fits trying to find out what was causing it to lose power badly,to the point of leaving you on the side of the road. In an earlier post I tracked down a clogged second cat as the culprit. Replaced cat and its fixed ... right?... wrong ! As was suggested by several respondents , something caused that cat to fail ! Car seemed to run great for a while until it misfires, only code it throws is misfire. It does stay running now,... just poorly. I have it in the shop ... its running but missing ,clear the code and it comes right back. I finally shut the engine off and open the hood,you know to swear at it ... what do I see ... the brand new second cat is glowing orange !!!!! Seems that when it's misfiring it's dumping raw fuel ,down the exhaust !!! After it cools off and the shop doesn't burn down, I do a little research and I discover that it's the coil heating up and misfiring. One 75.00 coil and both O-2 sensors later and it really is fixed this time ! At least we didn't melt down the new cat , or the car, or the shop... Talk about a hair puller !!! Code reader was telling me what was very obvious it's misfiring !! ahh yea we noticed !! Only after seeing the symptom of the red hot cat was I able to track the misfire back to the coil.

Haven't heard anyone suggest checking the timing belts to make sure all is in time there.

Does it release on its own, or do you crack a bleeder ? I'm thinking possibly a crushed (steel) or crushing(rubber)brake line that allows pressure in but will not freeflow back , after a few pumps of the pedal pressure builds in the caliper and it can't release ?

Thanks guys; I will continue to monitor her car . No damage to old cat, but this a new car to her so we don't know the maintenance history before she got it. So far its running great and have no doubt that I will hear all about it if it doesn't .

Check your exhaust. I just repaired a 2007 with very similar problems and it turned out to be a plugged second cat, $270.00 later and its all fixed ! You could be having the same issues... worth a check.

Problem fixed !! I was about to give up. Borrowed a fuel pressure tester and it had 52 lbs at idle , so no fuel pump problems . No water in the fuel. Was informed that it had a strong fuel smell from the exhaust when it was dying. The problem had progressed to the point that in the shop cold it would only rev up to 4000 rpm then start misfiring badly. Last resort, I dropped the exhaust free from the cylinder heads and attempted to start. Had to hold the throttle open to get it to fire... (very loud) after a few burps as the computer adjusted, suddenly it would rev to red line !!! Reattached exhaust and back to 4000 rpms ... yes ! went to the second catalytic pipe and disconnected it from the resonator and after getting engine to fire I discovered that it would only rev to 5000 rpms. Disconnect 2nd cat pipe from the first cat pipe and its back to revving to redline !!! $270.00 later with new gaskets and a new 2nd cat and pipe, car is fixed ! Revs up to red line & runs down the road strong ! All codes are gone and cruise control lite has quit flashing. After removing the bad pipe & tapping, it produced a pile of silver powder... no doubt the cheaper alternative to platinum. Rear resonator pipe and both rear mufflers are shot but at another $400.00 they can wait a few weeks.For now sister can hop in her subi and go... she is a happy camper!

An 02 with 215K could have a poor flowing radiator. Also only a subaru thermostat is reliable. Rad cap is another cheap thing to try.

When you filled the engine, did you do so from the rad cap or did you fill directly into the disconnected upper radiator hose ? IF... you filled from the cap there is a chance that you haven't gotten all the air out. Disconnect the upper hose and pour the engine full ,then reattach and finish filling via the rad cap, gently squeezing the upper hose to burp out the last of the air. Also you should be using a subaru thermostat only,the cheap parts house ones do not work well at all... If you're lucky, one of those will be your problem ... otherwise it may be your head gaskets again. The longevity of a head gasket job depends on the quality of the parts used. Subaru gaskets are best , felpro makes a gd quality gasket , china makes poor gaskets (they are very cheap though) heads should be checked for flatness and machined if necessary.

When you say that it intermittently falls on its face, do you mean its running fine and then loses all power... limping to the side of the road ? with a strong smell of fuel out the exhaust ? Does it restart quickly ? Run normal , till the next episode ? Checking timing belts on that year , always requires removing the harmonic balancer. If you have done that before its not that big a job, but my opinion... is its not going to be a timing belt... if it runs fine , then quits , then runs fine again its not a timing issue. If your timing belts slipped more than just a little bit your motor would not run at all. The fuel smell out the exhaust should hopefully give somebody with more experience than me a clue towards what your problem may be.

I didn't record those codes , and the only ones that came back were misfire 1&2 ,no # 3 this time. Had to work all weekend so I haven't looked at the car. Still going to try dropping the exhaust while it's acting up to see if it's a plugged exhaust or not .

Its more severe than limp mode. It slowly gains 3ooo rpm only in park or neutral, if you were still in gear it would just power down and stall. It did have its ecu reset , by me. I tried disconnecting several sensors while it was barely running ,in the hope that it would go into a limp mode to get me home... did'nt work, but I sure had plenty of codes to go with the misfire 1-2-3... Clearing codes did not change anything , replacing the plugs , wires and air filter also did nothing. Currently too hot outside to work on it... Going to try disconnecting the exhaust tomorrow to see if that has any effect .

Would hope & expect a crank sensor to throw a code, no oil on boots, and I agree about cly 4 ???? would think a plugged exhaust would misfire 4 also ?? Runs clean and smooth on all 4 when cold.

I thought about plugged cat , could try disconnecting exhaust to see if that had any effect. Would it flow cold and then slowly close up as it heats up ? Yes my code reader does live data , nothing but cly. 1,2,3 misfire.

2007 outback 2.5 sohc. Auto tranny. Starts up fine cold , revs up normally, will sit and idle or rev in the shop just fine. Start driving down the road and after a few miles you notice a lack of power, then it won't pull itself at all ... when you pull over it will idle at first but won't rev beyond 3000 rpm after a few minutes sitting it will only idle (poorly) instant stall if you try to try to give it any fuel at all ??? Feels like its running out of fuel , I don't have a pressure tester for fuel ( may be able to borrow one) but when I disconnect the main line I get pressure release and a steady flow of fuel with an open line. The only codes the obd2 is showing is misfire on cylinders 1,2,3...not 4 ? Let it sit all nite and it will start right up ??? Any ideas ??? Apparently this has been slowly getting worse over the last few months. I'm getting new ngk plugs and wires for it ,but I dont expect a cure from them. Could a fuel pump cause a drivability issues like this ? A coil ? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I believe they are throttle body inlet,outlet hoses. My local napa store stocks them . yours should also. Look at napa online for these part numbers, NBH 10666, Part Number: NBH 10672 There are a few choices ... make sure the picture matches what shape your hoses are.

#1) wrecking yard, #2) Yes , four matching tires,check your front end parts and alignment #3) Pads, rotors & possibly calipers, check that your calipers slide #4) Try lubing it, bang it with your hand to get it moving or wrecking yard, #5) dealer or ...wrecking yard. 1993 , 2.2 non interference motor,5 speed, good car ,keep it,fix it ,it will last for years.

Make absolutely sure that none of your incoming air tubes are cracked, from the filter box to the throttle body. A front end collision could have cracked one and it could be getting worse as time passes. Wont help your ticking but may restore your power band.

I agree with legacy about clearing your codes to see if they come back. Sadly every time your check engine light comes on ... your cruise control light will flash and the cruise control will not work until you clear the codes! A Subaru (BETTER) idea that they should have never have thought of ! Purchasing a cheap code scanner will allow you to read the codes and to clear them yourself.

GENTLY use two lg screwdrivers and CAREFULLY work it back and forth.