montana tom

I use two funnels. Small one that will fit in and sit on fill tube, then I hold a larger one above and pour into that. I haven't tried the lucas tranny stuff yet either, but I've been a lucas believer for years.

Add it in at the dip stick. trannys are hard to get a good reading , small tube takes forever to drip down. Motor must be running of course to check.

Have you owned the car since new, or is it a recent acquisition ? Has it worn tires that quickly since you owned it ? Are you the only driver or is there a teenager in your home? Have the front & rear differentials had the oil level checked ? Broken studs and worn rear tires make me think of a teenager (however old) who is rally driving ... using the parking brake to lock up the rear end, snapping studs with side load.... ripping up everything like your wagon was a wrx.

Non issue,don't worry about it.

Have your helper turn the key and you identify the location of what is clicking. All cables +- are tight, at bat and starter ? Did you just take the cover plate off the solenoid, or did you take apart and inspect the incoming and outgoing connections ? I have found one of the 14 mm nuts loose on the starter side that caused an intermittent no start. Check your voltage on the working side of the starter.

Oil pans are tough, filter is way up there. Filler tube bolts at the top of the head so no way you got that. Valve covers ? You would have to scrape hard to wear a hole in one of them.Hopefully it only leaks when the motor is running. If you don't carry extra quarts of oil with you , I would stop on the way home and have some on hand. This way if it is a running leak , you should have plenty to get you home. It is motor oil and not tranny fluid right ? Auto trans lines run where your leak is ... if the oil is red better buy tranny fluid for the ride home.

Best to remove or look under the plastic, oil could be dripping and running. On imprezzas they have oil cooler lines that run to the water pump but I don't think bahas have that.

Great car ej 22 non interference motor, timing belt & wp done,hopefully idlers & tensioner also.1000 bucks as long as it isn't a rust bucket is a gd deal. 223,000 miles is nothing, my 94 has 350,000+ .5 spd transmission could act up, some do but they are readily available if it does. No big issues with this year its a gd one.

Just thinking, because removing valve covers can be a pain, but if you wanted to do that instead .. if you have bent valves you will find loose rockers when they should be tight , and compressed springs that shouldn't be.

Well I guess if you gota you gota. Like gary said you just need to get the belt on , no need to cover everything back up or put acc. belts & pulleys on. Line it up ,release the tensioner , roll the engine by hand. the first sign of bent valves will be if it doesn't want to turn over normally by hand. If it rolls around two times at crank without hitting anything and your timing marks still line up ... then go turn the key and see if it starts.

I grew up in east norwalk, and it was not like that 35 years ago. But as far as leaving anything like loose change (rare coins in particular) in a vehicle that was going to be entered by minimum wage workers ... even then I would have removed the visible stuff.

If it were me I would buy the full kit and install on the 01 outback. Then take the old belt and try it on the forester.

Should be a sticker on your hood if it hasn't been replaced. What year car?

Never had a cat rattle but the heat shields are notorious.

My 2000 obw is a 5 sp and my 2001 obw limited is also a 5 sp. Glad you checked the neutral start position.

LOL, classic shoebee, great description ! At least you saved your shop! Who knows maybe some MILF will read your post and think it's better to admit a mistake....

About an hour for me to do one, including R&R of the starter & brazing or replacing the contacts. A shop unfamiliar with subarus and this particular fix, could charge 2-3 hrs of shop time +parts. If you don't feel comfortable removing the starter yourself then a straight change out of the starter will be much cheaper way to go, rather than pay somebody to fix the solenoid who is not familiar with the job.

You can remove the contacts ,clean them up ,then I use a special copper compound rod I melt in and file off the excess. Before having that, I used silver solder and in a pinch i have used plain everyday solder. They use this style solenoid in toyotas as well. I've done this repair at least 2 dozen or more times. Replacing is better, but to this day I have never had to do over one of those repairs.

Start at the battery. Remove neg then pos cable from battery. With sandpaper or a pocket knife shine up the posts on the battery, do the same on each cable end. Replace on battery starting with the positive cable then the neg. Check other end of cables at the starter make sure they are tight ! Go for a drive and see if you fixed your problem . Personally I still suspect the copper contacts inside your starter solenoid, but you have to start with the basics, and rule them out first.

Is it clicking when you turn the key ? The starter solenoids are prone to wearing uneven and not allowing power to pass thru to the starter. This is an easy fix if it's your problem. Like lucky said, with a helper try whacking the starter while trying to start at the same time. And of course clean terminals at the battery and good ground are essential.

Have you had the car scanned for codes ? Is your check engine light on ? Fuel pump is a definite possibility, but blindly replacing it is hard & costly.

200,000+ high milage ??? Just getting broke in. You could put a low mile jap takeout motor in instead, if the rest of the car is clean.

Fairtaxs idea is a good one ; easier than option 1, shouldn't hurt the integrity of the bellhousing enough to worry about. Give it a try

three choices; 1) loosen the motor lift & slide out till you have clearance. 2) remove axle 3) get roaring drunk say F it and drive till you break the bellhousing or case. If it were me I would go with option #1

Use 1/2 drive but no impact, they will come out, this happens all the time. back & forth with lots of penetrant.