montana tom

You may have broken a solder connection inside the MAF. They are prone to problems in those years. If possible, temp. swap one with another car and see if your problems clear up.

My 2000 obw has 257,000 miles on it and its got the same clutch as when i bought it at 110,000. I had the engine out recently to replace the HG , checked the clutch while I had it hanging ... and put it right back together again. You will know when your clutch slips and as long as you fix it quickly it won't ruin your flywheel .

Yes, U-joints & shaft from the slip joint at the back of the tranny to the carrier bearing then back to rear differential. Everything you need in one long package. Not hard to install yourself or any shop should be able to do it in an hour or so.

Yes , a bad driveline will do the things you describe. My 01 obw did this and after searching I discovered that in my year group (00-04) it must be replaced ! Can't have a driveline shop put replaceable u joints in it ! $500.00 later a complete driveline arrived at my door.

I believe that one is piston pin access, and was tight tight on my 2.5, you will definitely want an impact screwdriver . The o ring was hardened and leaking.

Behind the flywheel , use an impact screw driver to break the screws loose or the heads will strip.

Check the solenoid connection at the starter, may have popped off if the locking catch is broken. Standard or auto ? Clutch start switch at pedal or neutral safety switch ?

ignition switch go bad ?

Sounds like a bad ground. try removing and cleaning your battery posts and terminals.

Its a belt driven blower/ super charger ,If you look you can see the tube running over to the air filter housing. Really nice looking install job.

Hey dave ,thats cool ... I want one in my car !

I spent hours on my 94 looking under the dash for power wires to the windows. If you have no luck finding the your problem under the dash, try removing your driver seat and look under your carpet. Mine had a corroded main power wire from all the moisture that gets held under the carpet on the drivers side.

No leaks should be allowed in any exhaust, header or stock.

On my 94 legacy they all quit. The relay and all wiring was under the carpet , under the driver seat... had to remove the seat to see anything. With only one window effected i would test power at the switch and look for problems at that door first.

A 2002, 2.5 will have an 8 bolt bellhousing, yours is a 4 bolt , none of your upper parts will bolt on, as well as your trans not bolting up. It can be done but its more work than your thinking.

Yes, failing tensioner, bad idler, failing water pump. LOL leave the covers off and snow buildup will make them jump. At least be glad you have a 2.2 first generation !

Yes it can, most of the time they won't run at all, but you need to look at the belt static timing marks to confirm. Do you know how to remove the balancer ?

Well # 3 may be the worse one or the first one that the computer is reading. At least it's not that hard to check timing ... well... depending on your experience level , it's not hard to check. You have already tried the plugs, wires & coil, checked compression ... there isn't too much left that it can be. Oh last thought, did you just fill up with fuel ? Could you have water in the fuel filter ???

95, 2.2 non interference motor, i'm thinking your timing belt jumped. pull the timing covers and check your timing marks. Yes 150 psi is good on the cylinders.

What makes you think the cylinders are scored ?

I agree its the mechanism, and the outside handle does rust up and get sticky, but I have found that inside the door there is a small pivot point that rusts up badly and lubing the outside handle won't make it in to lube that point. Remove the inner panel and work the latch, lube up any moving part of the linkage inside ,sometimes removing them and sanding works wonders. Don't just rely on a wd-40 product , use a spray white lube that will stick around and help keep the rust away.

If you have the donut and the 2 new bolts with springs and nuts, then this is not hard at all. Your car came with a jack to change tires so you can lift it up. Sawzall is not needed ... those old bolts will either unthread or break... worse case if the bolt heads strip before breaking then a hacksaw will cut them enough that a hammer will finish breaking them. The whole exhaust is rubber mounted it will pull away after the bolts are removed. The old donut will need to be persuaded with a screwdriver and hammer to come off, then just stick on the new donut, put in the new bolts and springs , let down the jack and your done! No $70.00 hr and 2 hr drive involved.

Go for repairing the evil you have... give it new head gaskets , you have to buy the TB, idlers & WP no matter what. This way you know when everything was changed , no surprises. As far as running into any problems ... anything you find probably would have needed repair no matter what option you go with.

Scott; The rear shafts rarely go bad unless the boots are torn. Yes they are different than fronts, save your money ,don't fix em if they aren't broke .

Find out why that engine is not seating ... BEFORE buying anything else. Something will break if you don't fix it ! Amazing they got the motor mounts to go in with it 1/2" back!