montana tom

Check the smaller power wire going to the fuse box from the battery , it could have corrosion inside and not be able to send full amperage to the system.

I'm thinking a torch is definitely last resort. Imagine the fire you would create... industrial heat gun is much safer... Large hammer & lg screw driver would take it out. Make a heck of a mess as well. Call a private shop not a dealer ship . If no shop around then visit the dealer in person and go around to the shop doors and ask a real person....who might have a clue. The nice lady up front wants you to get rid of that old spoob and BUY NEW !!! The american way ! You know 30,000 in debt for 5-7 years... or continue to fix your old car .... your choice...

John; I know you said it was tight area ... but can you get a hammer / chisel on it ? Up at the top??? (I doubt it) Your heat gun idea may work. Old plastic does break or melt , make sure that a replacement part is quickly available before you get violent with it. When you do get it off make sure you use anti seize on the threads and seat. Have you talked to a VW shop ? I'm sure they have had this issue (why are they using cartridge rather than a spin on in 2018 !!!) They may tell you to break it and just replace it ????

Steve did the foot long shaft come out with the converter? Nothing holds the actual t/c in place but the bolts to the flex plate. No c- clip. Your issue is with the inner shaft. Do not remove any C clip to install! Remove just the T/C and then the shaft and see what the fix is.

Pull gently back away from tranny, rotate converter either direction and try again. Continue until you hit the flat spots down inside and then the converter will slip in that last little bit.

Have you checked for codes ? If you don't have a reader, most parts houses will read it for you for free.

Moog ball joint, kyb struts , new top caps for the struts, leave the tie rods alone unless they are loose, for that matter same with the ball joint... if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I didn't find another connector. I wired around it. I'm sure I could have found another connector at a wrecking yard out here

The 642 is the one for everything . The 770 is overkill unless its a turbo.

You can try your old cap BUT...Sounds like bad head gaskets to me.

When I get out of the woods to the BIG city's of Missoula & Spokane I can see dozens of baja's any day. They definitely are less numerous than outbacks but there is no shortage in the N.W. I'm sure you can find a rust free body out here, of course it most likely will have deer damage on a fender... cracked windshield , paint shot , but it will have great tires and run all day at 80 mph , dodging deer of course...

Throw away that chilton's manual, they cause more grief than help . Move the crank as Tex instructed. The keyway should be down when lines on top are even . Drivers side cam is under tension when properly lined up ... it will stay at just where it needs to be, with notch in plastic housing lining up with mark on cam gear. Pass. side cam is free floating when lined up with the crack in the case. When all three hash marks are lined up, leave the top pass side idler loose to help install belt. Now attempt to feed the belt on . Books say go counterclockwise I always go clockwise! start at the crank pay absolutely no attention to the silly lines printed on the belt, proceed under the tensioner and around the drivers side cam gear follow around water pump idlers pass side cam gear and finally slip it under the loosened idler (don't forget to tighten it up) If all timing marks line up then books say to pull the pin ... I say hand roll the motor over 2 revolutions until marks come back in line ... IF all three still are perfectly in line THEN pull the tensioner pin and hand rotate 2 more revolutions , Marks should all three still be perfect if so finish your installation if they are off AT ALL START OVER ! (EDIT) Didn't realize this is a ej25 D motor

Don't bother testing a used one ... install it . Get several , chances are if this is your problem one of the wrecking yard ones will change it. I wouldn't buy a new one until I was sure this is really the issue. After you confirm, then worry about a new one. I see prices on them from 60- 80 bucks as long as its not calf. emission.... those are 180-280 bucks go figure ... EDIT) By the way , 165,000 is barely broken in..... mine has 298,000 would drive it to key west today ! Well maybe wait till January....

That's a tough one. How long has it been going on ? Did you all the current work hoping to clear the stutter up ? Yes, a bad map sensor can cause a hesitation, Low manifold pressure makes the ecu think the engine is not under load so it cuts the amount of fuel, causing a stutter or hesitation, this also makes for great fuel economy . New map sensor runs 60-80 bucks or more , grab one from a wrecking yard or borrow one from a good running car and try.

Yup Bennie; All the US issue cars have a fiber doughnut between the resonator pipe and the muffler pipe. Uses 2 spring loaded bolts to allow flex.

Ya know , between Tex's idea of a spark plug removed and an air line and horsehockeys shop vac you might get lucky. Clean empty shop vac so you know if it gets it. Worth a try !

Those are the correct 8 bolts for manifold hold down. After you remove the intercooler I think you will find a few more things to disconnect. take photos of each step, if you don't need them later DELETE But if you need them now you'll be glad to have them.

Get all the air filter piping out of your way. There is only 8 bolts holding down the intake manifold. A handfull of electrical connectors (they only snap in to one place you can't mess it up. If you have one, the EGR pipe should come off. two 3/8" water lines going to the throttle body. Not like an old chevy ... no water transfers from the intake manifold to the head, uses a separate water manifold underneath the intake manifold. So no water needs to be drained from the engine. (two 3/8 lines may need a clamp IF they leak much) The air conditioning compressor will give you a few finger pinches but the manifold will clear and lift rite off. Oh the power steering pump may need to be unbolted from the block and laid off the side of the fender. May not on your year.... on the earlier ones they had lines bolted to the top of the manifold. Some things like the fuel lines may be able to stay connected and just roll the manifold upside down to look inside. This job looks daunting when you open the hood, its not . Take photos , count how many electrical connectors you disconnect and make sure to reconnect the same amount. Your other option like GD said if..... it makes it down in the cylinder its gone... poof . danger is if it hangs up before the valves and disrupts the fuel flow to one or more cylinders. Your car will run like crap and you will be pulling an intake. Good luck it won't be that bad (EDIT) Just looked at the "instructions" you posted.... those things would confuse me. Don't over think it worrying about it just dig in and do it

Miles; Just a tip. Only buy a Subaru pcv, the parts store ones have been known to suck the oil right out.

No, splitting the block is not for a novices. Once you do you may as well go the whole route, New pistons ,size the rods , turn crank, and a whole lot more including bags of cash.... Buying a short block from subaru is a faster better way to go. Rods go out on this engine from overheating or a severe lack of oil !!! If it hasn't done either than don't split it, do what was suggested . Ring it , 10 mm oil pump 642 head gaskets and full O.E. timing set .

Dextron lll/ mercon, or dextron lV will work as well. I would buy the walmart brand for a flush and refill, you'll want about 3 gallons to do a complete job. EDIT) Glad you got rid of that 2098 outback...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-35047AC030-JDM-OEM-Shifter-Bushing-Linkage-Joint-new/132685361292?fits=Year%3A1999|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy&hash=item1ee4a9f08c:g:T90AAOSw3xJVVTh6 Ok Try this... i'm not a good computer person... If that doesn't work just go to ebay find seller Subaru parts direct and type in shifter bushing & linkage for 99 legacy after great to do I finally notice that Greg already did it and it goes right there! Thanks Greg

Check the small hot wire from the battery feeding the fuse block. You have a major short, it wasn't there before your skid stop. Something shifted most likely due to the battery moving. It COULD be unrelated to your road crossing but I would look long and hard at how the power gets in and out of that fuse block. follow the others suggestions about pulling fuses to isolate what system is shorting. Use a very light gauge wire held with needle nose pliers to "test " the fusable link connection for a continuing short. If it sparks your short is still there.

Check compression, got a tight valve?

good luck, hope it helps!