montana tom

Take a look at this item on ebay ( 142795978874 ) That is the OE shifter bushings and linkage assembly for your legacy direct from subaru

Don't split it. Replace the oil pump with a 10 mm Subaru pump. replacing the rings is optional but I wouldn't on a 2.5. Water pump with a high quality one. Subaru #642 head gaskets, only O.E. timing components.

3/16 is the proper size , I think its an 1/8" long neck punch and stay on the outside edge not the center. Might be 1/16" but i'm not in the shop to look.

This is a very common issue, just use a small punch and remove it. I can't tell you how many times this rolls into the shop. 5 minutes to punch it out and turn 180 degrees.

Yup ,he's talking transmission oil. Diff. oil wouldn't do this. If your considering a trans fluid flush, here is an easy way. Buy 3 gal atf.. Disconnect a cooler line at radiator. Place line in empty gal jug . Start motor , idle as gal jug fills. Stop. empty used jug. replace under hose , pour one gal of new atf in at top. Repeat . By the 3rd gal you should be getting clean oil .

Use a smaller punch and come from the other side. i see this all the time.

buy an original used one from ebay. Make sure the numbers match.

Here is the ebay item # for the 770's ( 141626599902 ) $87.00 pair delivered versus $76.00 for the 642 I've installed dozens of the 642 without incident.

(142713912360) ebay item # 642 Subaru MLS Pair $76.00 delivered No debate use at least these or the turbo head gaskets. Don't mill the heads ,Clean them up with 150 grit WD and then check for flatness. Check valve lash while you have them on the bench.

You didn't have the oil pump off did you? That could be a pump seal....if you had the pump off you'll have to go back and check. Better chance it was laying on top of something and you dislodged it.

From your description I would say that your power loss is not related to any possible transmission issues you may have. Have you checked for any codes ? Fuel filter wouldn't act that way but its Interesting that on a 99 the fuel filter is in-tank, they did not do that here until 2005. I would suspect a MAF if your car has one. The throttle position switch could be acting up. Coil shorting ? As you can tell I'm thinking its an electrical issue. Do you have another vehicle you can "borrow" parts from to try ?

Its hard to say at this point , but your having early symptoms of torque bind. Install the fwd fuse and try. EDIT) Great minds think alike Tex

Been about a year ago and it was a 99 postal but I'm thinking your missing a nut or two. There was nothing special (other than normal, disconnect battery negative) about the air bag. Its a daunting job to start but its really not that bad once you start.

Nope, nothing too special. A way to compress the springs on the struts and the caliper , rotor & pads is same as always. Be sure to grease the caliper slide pins with syl-glide or other high quality brake lube. EDIT) Upper bolt holding the strut to the knuckle is for alignment , mark the head to the knuckle with paint and turn from the nut side. Lower bolt is normal

The Snap On man call's a 14 mm 12 point , 1/2 " drive socket the Subaru Head Bolt Socket. Buy a high quality one before doing your heads. Replace your pcv with a Subaru one , they are not that expensive. Confirm all the rubber piping from it & the valve covers to the block are pliable and have clamps (many are rock hard with age and the clamps are gone) When the head gaskets start leaking oil it will start slowly , lots of time to notice .

What a cute little thing ! Never seen one before! Subaru sells all sorts of cool things overseas . 7200 rpm , they wont let ours wrap up like that. Thanks for sharing !

Yes Zett; Congratulations !!! I knew you would locate Subaru People nearby, we are everywhere! Hiding in the bushes... Subaru's go there, fords get stuck... Sounds like you found just the right shop nearby . I knew there would be one. Be sure to post later in the summer with pictures of your new outback! As Heartless said, WELCOME to the family ! (even if !)

That year subi has a hill holder on it. If you were trying to roll backwards it will mess with you. If you were rolling forwards then you should check the caliper slide pins and grease them with Sil-glyde.

Only in the N.W. Tex, Montana , Idaho , Washington . We travel down to Arizona when we can for the gem sales in the spring.

Hi Zett; With 3-4 thousand to spend at the end of the summer you should be able to find a REBORN outback (00-04 )with new head gaskets,seals ,timing components, and an all over check up on brakes, suspension. I sell them in that condition all the time , prices run 2800-4500 on most of them. Only as a last resort should you talk to a dealership. Do not buy a car from them.The mechanics in back might be who to talk to not a salesman. They may know of a subaru shop OR one of them might run a sideline mechanic business. I see Huntington is not to far away and Charleston is sort of nearby. Watch Craigs list. I advertise all my reborn Subi's on C.R. Some one there may be doing the same thing as me. Do not bat an eye at 200,000 miles on the odometer. Most of the ones I sell are over 200,000 . My personal vehicle is a 2000 5 speed it currently has 298,000 miles , the wife's is a 2001 with 254,000 miles , both run strong and are completely reliable. Included a photo of a 2003 obw with 225,000 on the odometer. New h.g. timing components ,seals , front and rear brakes, new axle ,new rear wheel bearing , and more . Its selling this Thursday for $4500. I've got a 2000 limited here with 216,000 for $ 3700. These cars are out there, however I do not know about rust issues in your neck of the woods. Here in the NW we have little to no rust out issues. Beware a badly rusted car!

Well, not sure on a new one but our 2001 routinely gets loaded full of rocks ,seats down. Then we hook a 4 x 6 covered trailer also stuffed full of chairs and show tents and much more rock products. We then tow it literally 100's of miles one way to a show at 70 mph. Follows us home like a puppy.

Pick up another MAF if you can, preferably a known good one(borrow a friends) or wrecking yard, do not buy a china knockoff. MAF are famous for slowly going bad in that year group. Seems a solder joint inside makes intermittent contact. They don't always throw a code .

SMo; You haven't really told us what your car is doing. A bad ujoint is going to cause vibration .. a failing duty C and clutches are going to cause torque bind, with no driveline to the rear differential you can't feel torque bind so .... what symptoms do you have ? With it not connected to anything, Of course the drive line still turns and your toasted front ujoint is still going to vibrate. 230,000 miles on a 2000 ob is nothing. My personal driver is a 2000 obw 5 speed with 298,000+ I would load it up and drive to the Florida keys or New Brunswick Canada, today ! I expect if I can avoid suicidal deer and elk , and the occasional attack Turkey that that car will hit 400,000 or maybe even 500,000. Used drivelines for that car are readily available around $100 . BUY one and drive that subi for another 200,000 miles , IMO the newer Subarus are not as reliable as the older ones. You live in the desert , no rust issues . If 230,000 scares you then look for a different one with lower miles.

Hi Zett; Are you looking at the first generation outbacks (96-99) or second generation (00-04) The first generation 97-99 2.5 double cam motor can have serious HG issues, requiring instant attention / repair. The second generation is MUCH more forgiving about head gaskets. 2000 and up subi's will need their head gaskets changed at some point after 150,000 miles or so. However they just drip... oil and antifreeze ... directly on your catalytic so you'll smell it BUT, they are slow drips easily monitored and easy to keep topped up, literally for years if you don't mind the smell. It gives you time to save up for the job. Look around your area for a yard filled with Subaru's ,They will be Subaru people... stop in and ask where they have their work done. You may have to travel some but I'm sure there will be a Subaru specialty repair shop. After all W.V. has mountains and snow thats where Subi's Shine!

I would of spent the $100 and gotten a used shaft. GD has good connections , around here that drive line rebuild would be in the $400 range.