montana tom

My guess would be a C/V joint .

Drain and fill, could take 3 times to get all the old fluid out. Safer than power flushing. Filter on the outside of trans is supposed to be lifetime BUT... if you change it only use an original one.

Just lining up the cams may not be enough. I brought a 96 2.2 in the shop last week for a timing belt set. Both cams lined up perfect ... at the crank it was almost at 1 o'clock ! Still ran just fine ....without pulling the center cover you would need to visually set the crank keyway at the six o'clock position to get close enough to claim the timing was sort of on. It's worth looking at just to be sure. Yes the tps is suspect. If possible try another. 99 2.2 ,does it have a MAF in the fresh air intake ? If so and you have another , swap it out. This kind of problem can make you go bald, ripping your hair out and banging your head against the wall. Any chance a connector isn't snapped all the way on / together ? go back thru and check them all, one not quite snapped in would give you intermittent operation.

Dan: Important thing is the final drive ratio. Also is that it has a Hydrolic push clutch rather than a cable pull clutch. Your 2000 outback should be 4:11 at the tranny and rear end . I "THINK" the imprezza is the same but you must find out or it won't drive. Call foreign engines in coeur D alene 800 552 1595. They are Japanese importers. They sell engines and trannys (for more $ than you want to spend)... But they are really nice folks and they will gladly tell you if the imprezza tranny will fit. Or call pull in save in North Spokane, about what they may have ... the south lot hardly has any subi's , but the north lot is loaded.

You'll have to remove the assembly from the car (relatively easy). At that point you will be able to hand rotate the top cap and see how it feels. If you feel anything ... I recommend replacement. If It feels smooth but loose attempting to squirt grease in could prolong its life. But... if you have it out why not replace it. To replace you need to disassemble (not so easy).

I agree about the air flow ... however little that might be. I think they put the lower cover and the large plastic top covers on , so when the buyer opens the hood it looks FULL (even though it isn't) Consumer wants to think he is getting something for $20,000 +

Confirm your fuel pump is putting out , also make sure your getting full voltage at battery , the fuel pump won't run past the start position if voltage is down. Pop the rear seat up and check if power is reaching the fuel pump. Double check all your grounds. If it idles fine for 5 seconds , I doubt that it is a vacuum / disconnected line issue. Fuel or electric is my guess.

Not that I've ever noticed. Been removing them for years. I guess the bottom of the motor can get splashed ... big deal..

They will come out the bottom. You'll want to pull the heat shield and pull the entire drive shaft out. Put a baggy over the end snout and secure with a zip tie .I find it easier to pull the motor first. Lots more working / wiggle room that way. Can't help you about the 6 speed , I'm sure someone else has that information.

I think maybe the imprezza had a power light... The clunking I would check your tranny and motor mounts. The steering, definitely check and tighten the belt.

Right now your car is worth little more than scrap metal. If your broke park it. Other wise haul it south and get it fixed correctly.... chances are the dealer would screw it up.

Take it south to GD's shop and let him put a new motor in .

Keep anything out of the turbo . Use tape over open holes , cap or plug the oil lines. Otherwise its just an EJ 2.5. Why do you need to cut the a/c belt ? If its a tight one just remove the adjuster assembly .

Must be rust out.

Thanks GD that's great news!

I think so, $40.00 extra for piece of mind. The one I installed last year is running fine ... but still, I can't afford to have comebacks. Not so much the money but reputation . 200858175013 ebay item # $266 with branded belt

Last summer I installed a timing kit , ntn, koyo , nsk and a mitsuboshi belt. Didn't think anything of it until after the install when I noticed it was mitsuboshi, made in Malaysia...I double checked all the idlers and they were good. I let it leave the shop hoping I wasn't making a costly mistake. In the months since then I have installed over a dozen timing kits, almost all with mitsuboshi belts and every one was made in Japan... Today I went to install a kit in a 96 2.2 and the mitsubishi timing belt is made in Thailand... all the ntn nsk koyo idlers are all still Japan made. I'm wondering if mitsuboshi has moved manufacturing facility's to Asia? Was i getting old stock with the japan made belts ? Or is there knockoff mitsuboshi timing belts being marketed ? A subaru branded belt costs me almost $40.00 more with a kit . I do install them for the customers that want only original equipment parts, but for my resale cars i always used the mitsuboshi belts.

After you get your fueling issues corrected, IF you still have the shaking problem. When the car is fully warmed up and shaking , Do a compression test. Much easier than pulling a valve cover. (if you own or can borrow a compression tester) A tight valve will drop compression readings on that cylinder. If you find a low cylinder, that is the valve cover to remove and check valve adjustment. (Of course if one is tight you must check them all) If you find a tight one and your lucky the valve won't be burnt and your car will be back to 100% (for an 18 year old car)

Your on the east coast , lots of corrosion on things .That lateral bolt can be a bugger to remove. I recommend having a new lateral bolt on hand before starting.(at least locate a local dealer with one on the shelf ) I've had to cut them out before. I've also had to replace the bushings on the links as the bolt seized inside. I have also fought the axle itself , not wanting to slide out of the hub OR wanting to pop off the differential. I groan anytime I have to go to the rear wheels on that year group.

There should be a short jumper harness from the pump. That short harness has been known to fail. On a wagon you would access that harness under the seat , on a sedan the pump is under the seat so I don't know if they used the jumper harness on the sedan or not .Worth checking if its there.

The evap solenoid and the purge valve are two different parts, both part of the evap system .You found the solenoid its the likely reason for fuel filling issues. The purge valve is under the hood and if you can blow thru it , then that's your hard starting after fueling. As far as the shaking goes I doubt the evap system is involved at all.

The TZ# is the important #to know. Here on the west coast I would call foreign engines for a Japanese take out transmission.

I would check the shifter mechanism, above the transmission. Most likely that is worn out. If not there then inspect the cable & shift mechanism on the passenger side of tranny.

The evap system is no doubt causing your fueling and starting issues. As far as your intermittent shaking. On a 2000 outback have the valves been adjusted ... ever .. since you owned it ? Your shaking could easily be a valve tightening up as it heats up. Valve adjustment / valve cover removal on a subi is not for a novice, but it is doable if you have mechanical ability.

Purge control valve , under the hood. Disconnect and see if you can blow thru it. You shouldn't be able to. (EDIT) look at the under hood picture to locate purge valve.