83hockeywagon

I did the swap this weekend. Been a little busy to post. My charcoal canister was in front of the engine bay on the drivers side. Right up against the inside of the fender. Black, about the size and shape of a small coffee can, had three or four rubber lines running to it. I plumbed the small PCV line from the tee to the air cleaner. The large line from the passengers side valve cover I rerouted to the front of the engine compartment and added a breather filter. There is a great post on the board for an ea82 weber swap: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82´s/ There are a lot of similarities to the ea81. It's a great place to start. I'll try to take some pics and post tomorrow.

Here is the manifold all painted up.

I just wanted to take it off the manifold to paint. Since it's pressed in I left it and painted it as well.

and so many rattles and strange sounds gone! Took it for a quick test drive to buy a couple lock washers to replace the ones I lost in the driveway. Rides so much better and quieter. Two hours and a little money well spent. Anyone have any pointers on doing the front? HTKYSA says not to tackle the springs on the struts. Is it doable at home without special tools, or should I take it to a shop? (83GL wagon 4wd) Jake

I've been studying the forums, HTKYSA, and a factory manual to learn as much as I can about my Hitachi and the associated emissions systems. I may have given myself information overload. I have a simple question to check my newly obtained knowledge. My situation: 83 GL wagon, 4wd, may or may not be a California model. The O2 sensor is gone (port plugged). The emissions/vacuum system has been modified by a po. I can't find an ECM. It has either been removed or I simply can't find it. My question: From what I have read here and in the manuals, my hitachi will run rich if it is not receiving feedback from the o2/ECM? I read someplace that the hitachis are jetted rich and the ECM leans out the mixture to suit conditions. The car runs rich. Am I correct in my thinking? The caveat: Compiling parts for a weber swap in a couple weeks.

Moss green with tan, that is correct. My last 83 wagon was white/blue, with sharpie flames compliments of a buddy at work. I wish cell phones had cameras back then. I don't have any pics of the old one. My daughter named it Whitey (she was four at the time). Her and my mom have named this one Ollie:) Actually traded my Scion Tc in on a car for her to drive. Doing the dad thing I swore I'd never do: kid has the nice car to drive, dad has the beater. I bought this one knowing it would be a project. Turning out to be a great daily driver. I'm really enjoying tinkering with it:) I bet that silver/blue looks sharp!

83 GL, 4wd, 4sp. My second Subaru and second 83 4wd wagon. Being from the PNW there have always been soobs in the circle of family and friends. It's pretty clean for a 30 year old car with 246000 miles. The usual interior and exterior wear and tear. The only things I've found that do not work are the rear defrost and the right turn signal doesn't cancel. The engine runs strong and smooth. It is the original engine (as far as I can tell) I have the original manuals and some receipts. Engine numbers match what was written in the manual by the dealer. Don't know if it's been rebuilt. My plan is to keep it a mostly stock daily driver. I'm putting all the pieces together for a weber swap. Next will be a new exhaust to remedy the leaky and rusty one it has now. Also putting in some new rear shocks soon.

Thank you! Glad I didn't get rowdy with the channel locks.

I'm prepping to do a Weber swap on my 83 GL wagon. I obtained a new intake manifold that I will clean up, paint, and mount the Weber on. My question is how to remove the coolant pipe that connects the heater hose to the manifold under the thermostat? Is it threaded in or pressed in? I used some penetrating oil and tried to unscrew it but it didn't budge. I didn't use a lot of force since I was unsure how it is attached.