soopsoop

i have been digging around the wiring in my 88 dl wagon and according to the fsm there is a diode that goes between the fuse and the ign relay, i tested everything else and all the power circuts work except where the diode is so i unplugged the diode and bypassed it and now have power to the wire. what does that diode do? is it a circut protection or what and what size or capacity is it so i can make a new one. and by the way i fixed the wiring to the climate control fan and it still doesn't work,both fuses are new i was wondering is there a relay and where is it at? i downloaded a fsm and it had everything but the body wiring,found a new resistor pack for the a/c fan at autozone for 47 bucks,iwould like to bypass the resisteres just to see if everything works but it acts like no power not sure which terminal to check,by the way the fusable link is good.

i found a new one in pullman but it cost about 400 bucks next stop pull and save for a wiper motor.

that is what i thought until i poured it into a gallon jug and had some left over.

not yet i think the ecu is fried i will try to pick one up at pull and save payday the p.o. has 4 kids band i have found soda pop residue everywhere.

thanks that is just what i needed now i can have rear wipers

so far i fixed the fuel pump,took the dash out to clean it,took two bags of garbage left by the p.o. found 7 bucks behind the radio, and a pocket knife took out the coil and power transistor found out the coil is bad (0 ohms across the positive no spark , downloaded the fsm online, still trying to fix rear wiper and a/c cooling fan(chopped up wiring),i will fix the front end payday,all this and the lady can't find the title so i am going slow for now will try afidavid in leu of title,wish i could get more wiring diagrams but i will make do with a little detective work.

i have an ea82 spfi in an 88 wagon dl the coil has power to both post and no pulsing while cranking. it has and optispark dist and a coil with a little box with what looks like a power transistor on it, i have checked the fuses and fusable link they are all good the dist turns with the engine and the timing belt is spot on as is the dist i measured across the coil with an ohm meter and it read o ohms so i am leaning on the bad coil part but do not know how to check the module part or the four wires going into the dist. everyone shows the different dist but not the optical one i think it is just one led and one optical pickup help.

still no responce yet? i got the fuel pump to work,still haven't figured which fusable link runs what,and no diagram for the rear wiper or the heater blower fan.the dealer is no help they said go online and online says go to the dealer.

ok i will try that. where are you at in spokane so i can pick your brain some more i live 35 miles south of spokane.

thanks that helped a lot,yes the other bolts fit in but the threads are slightly buggered i will chase them with a tap and put antiseize on them.

i finally got my test meter working no continuity between the positive and negative post on the coil i am not sure about the part that bolts to the bracket it has a power transistor on it not sure how to check other than replacement

i have an 88 dl wagon with spfi and i took my fuel pump out because to wasn't working,(don't do that unless you absolutly have to) or course the three 6 mm bolts broke i got the single front one out by unbolting the bracket but oi couldn't get the other two out i could move them a little but not enough room to swing the vice grips until i saw the three bolts holding the subframe to the rest of the frame so i put a jack under the subframe and took the three 17 mm bolts out and soaked the broken bits with pb blaster and brake fluid and worked them out slowly then put the plate back on and tightened them up as tight as i could with a 1/2 in ratchet now i just need three bolts that bare 6mm b y how long by how may threads per mm if i buy them at the dealer they will charge me 7 bucks or more a peice does any one know the measurments i didn't want to use zip ties and i will put some antiseize on the threads

i fixed a ladies 99 legacy the other day,she said it was hard starting and smoked a lot ,so i took the plugs out changed them then drained 5 quarts too much oil out of the engine she gave me 400 dollars in case i needed parts but i gave her 300 back because she was an old widow woman when she found out from her neighbor what the problem was she wanted her money back i said no she was paying for my knowlage and labor and the fact that the dealer would have put in a new motor. she is still driving the car and said it hasn't run better since she bought it,i guess her son just kept adding oil without checking.

got the fuel pump working now it was a bad relay,i put a used one in there for now,all i need now is spark and the wiring for the ac heater fan someone cut up the wiring and tried to bypass the resistores.

thank i found them

i will try that.the fuses are ok but no light in the ecm, it is the original from 88 and i am not sure how long they last

yeah that's one less worry. oh and by the way i got my fuel pump to work,it was a bad relay,found one in my junk now i turn the key on and the pump works for a few seconds and if i hook up the two green leads out by the firewall it continues every two seconds now to get spark.does the ecm have an automatic self check because my check engine light never came on.

i have an 88 dl wagon with spfi as i was turning the engine over by hand with the plugs in it turned over just fine until it got close to tdc on the flywheel then it got real tight i was using a 1/2 in rachet with a 13/16 socket is that normal? i will try it without the plugs in it next to see if that changes everything it ran good when i parked then it sat for a year who knows,i like the car and it will be my winter car because my ranger sucks in the snow.

the test light does not pulse when i crank the engine. i read somewhere on these forums that was supose to happen. i wasn't planning on putting the hei module on just wondering, you never know unless you ask.

i tried those procedures and the cap is new,the button is there,i turned the engine over by hand the distributor turns the rotor is tight,and there is power to the coil,but when i crank the engine with the starter the light does not flash,it remains steady,also the fuel pump doesn't kick in for the two seconds to start the car, i have checked all the fuses and fusable links they are all good,im thinking either bad dist orign module. could i use a hei module from a 75 chev,two wires in and two wires out because so far the only place to get a new module that doesn't cost more than the car(100 bucks) is the wrecking yard

ok my subaru is a 1988 dl wagon fuel spfi ea82 engine

i think my ign module and or coil is t.u.could i use the ign. module off of an older (like 75 or 76) hei it just has two wires to the dist. and two to power it works in my yoda has anyone else tried this yet?

i read somewhere in this forum about testing the dist and module tried the search function couldn't find any thing about my year car. i hooked up a test light to the negative side of the coil and the light stayed on steady so i tried the positive side same results,(no pulsing) is that a bad dist,or ign module or ecm because i get no lights to tell me the ecm is going for a self test the fuses are fine or could it be a bad ign switch? i also need a wiring diagram for the a/c-defrost fan, inside, one of the wires was burned up and it was bypassed with 12v from the battery. sorry if this is a lot to ask but i live 50 miles from town and all i have is a chiltons.

i wasn't planning to put it in my old wagon but i figgured for 150 with everything attached it would have been nice to have around in case a vehicle came up that it would fit.

ok i thought it was the wiper motor,how much are new ones?