nvu

did you forget to put the outer seal in after pressing in the hub? i did one time. had to press it out and reassemble everything. not sure how long lasted, many years though. this was a new bearing.

The damper rarely fails, on a 2010 I doubt it's the culprit. You could get away with removing it completely and bridging the lines. You're describing the fuel pressure regulator, it's near the injectors and has a third port that goes to a vacuum hose. Unplug the vacuum hose while the engine is running. It should not have fuel coming out. Fuel pressure probably doesn't hold overnight, but it should hold for a couple minutes right after key off.

update: took the car with the 4.44 box out today. it does 3000ish @ 65mph and a bit over 3900 @ 80. so no idea what transmission they put in yours. it might be one of those close ratio ones for rally.

I got mine at an importer, it's from a jdm forester but not sure if turbo. I could affirm that 5th gear revs high like he's seeing. But again to the OP, the fixes are fairly involved. The 5th gear set parts were ~$200 from the dealer when I did mine around 2012. Labor might be more than that. It's working, drive it.

likely got the 4.44 trans from the forester. i have one on my impreza it does around ~3000 at 65. both trans and rear diff need to be swapped to match. not really a cheap fix, you could put on bigger tires to offset the rpms

Makes sense, looking around seems like 1-1.4oz is the norm for compact car compressors. The oil that came out was quite yellow, but transparent. The hoses and cores are new so there's no oil in them. Might as well drain out what's left in the compressor and readd with new oil too. Thanks

How much oil is in a new compressor for 02-07 era imprezas? The car is an 03 impreza. The system hasn't been working so I couldn't cycle the compressor. Almost everything except the hard lines have been replaced: -condenser/drier -evaporator -TXV -soft hoses -compressor Dumping out the old oil in the compressor, there's barely any and it's thick black. I've gotten a used compressor. Dumping the oil out of that one there's a lot more of it, but clear. Looking at the service manual doesn't show how much oil to add to the compressor.

The one behind the crankshaft never wears out, it can be reused. You'll see the cogged idler next to the water pump. All the idlers lose grease eventually, they'll probably fail eventually. You could probably limp it home if it was any smooth idler. Failure of the cogged idler usually skips timing or snaps the belt entirely. Take your time and gather the right parts. The timing belt almost never fails on these engines, and with lower revving sohc it's likely your idlers are still in good shape when 110,000 rolls around.

With the belt off, spin them. If they freewheel and sound like roller skates there's no grease left inside. The cogged idler is under the most stress and likely the first to fail.

Here's a video for the impreza, different car, same engine. The plugs are a pain to get to, have a look and decide for yourself.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-4AT-4WD-Limited/_54102_6024341/EXHAUST-EXHAUST-COVER-06MY-/B13-440-10.html There's a gasket 3" away from the rear o2 sensor. 44184. It doesn't look like the older donut style that tends to leak though. I tried https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+2009+legacy+p0420, only thing that sounds plausible is cleaning the maf.

no lean code means the front o2 sensor is happy with the air coming out the engine. p420 is when that air goes through the cat and hits the rear o2 sensor. the engine is fine, the ecu is not happy with the air coming out the cat. exhaust gaskets, bad o2, bad cat. nothing to do with intakes

If it's not hard metal clacking chances are it might be a failing tensioner. Take the covers off again and do the prybar trick to test.

you've already removed the oil pan and pickup tube? it should lie flat, normal upright position on the table. if there's not enough leverage, put it on a carpet floor and step on it as you unbolt.

Was there much rust when you did the balljoints? If those came out easy the bearings would come out easy also. Get the press kit, unhook the ball joint and you'd have enough room to do it on car. I like to also unhook the tie rod to get even more access. Make sure you find and remove the snapring.

$100 sounds too steep. Do you have autostores that rent tools nearby? A bearing installer kit is all you need, probably under $100 to buy one outright. https://www.google.com/search?q=bearing+installer+kit There's also a snapring hidden under all that grease, be sure to remove it before pressing.

if you want to check for wheel bearings, jack up so both front wheels are in the air. spin one wheel by hand while holding onto the strut coil. you'll feel some grittiness on the one with bad bearings.

there's one sense wire and one ground wire. splice in the old connector. ground wire has continuity thru the bolt, sense is the other one. sometimes there,s only one wire inside, that's the sense wire and it grounds onto the bolt.

Likely this. There's a tiny indent on top of oil pump casing. Line it up there, it be near the trailing edge of the crank sensor

assorted o-ring pack from autostore works fine

forgot about that one, good catch!

Maybe you had a bent pan. Subaru oil pans are fairly soft. You can get the lip surface flat again by placing on concrete face down and tapping around it with a scrap piece of wood and hammer. Most times it's the holes on the pan that gets dimpled, look closely at them, flatten those out and it should seal with minimal rtv again. Tighten to full specs, overtightening will just dimple them again. If the engine is out and on a stand it's even easier. Flip it upside-down, place pan on it, and tap the lip flat again. The pan is that soft. Similar idea in this video, I use scrap wood instead of a metal chisel.

Ultra grey works best with flat surfaces. Full torque if both mating surfaces are machined. Case halves, oil pump to block, cam carriers, etc... The finger tight, allow set time, then full tight is for imperfect surfaces like stamped oil pans and covers. I don't do it, just torque it down and let it set.

Oh, I read that wrong. I haven't seen a spring clipped stub axle yet, all the ones I've dealt with has snap ring style circlips. And they rarely break as others have said. Maybe just pull out the axle and wiggle the thing, guessing it should be obvious if it's shot.

Check if there's a rollpin to punch out. If so it's a female axle and stubs on trans like pictured above, no oil spill.