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> Can it really just be unbolted with control arm left on car? It can, I'd remove the ball joint from the knuckle to relieve spring pressure. Then just the rear bushing can be undone and replaced by hand. Otherwise you might need to use a jack to push things back up to bolt them in. Loosen the big nut while it's in the car if you don't have an impact wrench. Ideally you want to tighten the big nut last while the car is sitting on the ground. I don't, it's been fine.

Thanks for the answers. I'll be looking for ej22's then. Are head gaskets a problem with these? I'd plan to buy locally at a place with warranty and drop the engine in as is.

I've recently acquired a 98 impreza outback sport that had an oil leak. After tearing down the engine it looks like the block is unusable, no threads on one headbolt hole, cracked into water or oil area. Opposite head bolt snapped off, looks like they put some type of dry powder in it to stop leaks. One head has very discolored exhaust valves. It might be okay, but at this point I'm cutting my losses and looking to put in another engine. The original one looks like an EJ22 MAF version, no EGR. Heads are external headbolts, single port exhaust. Has the newer style tensioner on the block. There's a local place which stocks jdm EJ20 sohc engines and I'm wondering if these would work. They all seem to be the internal headbolts heads. Will these newer ones work?

I use roll pin method on my impreza and can wedge out the axle without needing to take apart any suspension components. Pretty sure that wouldn't be possible with the stub method. Also you won't spill gear oil all over if you leave the stubs in. Pins are easy to get to on the impreza, not sure how much access there is under a legacy though.

Need to weld center diff or replace with a spool locker https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+rwd+spool

Have you tried putting it into 1st with the engine off? It should slot into 1/2 and pull out with normal force. If it's normal with the engine off and hard with it on, likely something clutch related. Maybe not releasing fully on very cold days.

Those pics look like a throttle position sensor (TPS).

You can bend it holding the metal line only. Don't hold it by the part where rubber crimps into the metal it would cause leaks, ask me how I know

not sure on newer forester's but when i had to replace the line on my 03 impreza i used some crow's foot sockets and wobble extensions to reach the nuts on the rack side. there's no direct line of sight to the area so i used a cellphone to look at the area and placed everything in by feel. for the impreza, the line that goes into the rack was below the car and ran along the crossmember before threading into the steering rack.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ball+joint+separator&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNj7rsx6DXAhVK52MKHaEHA34Q_AUIDCgD&biw=1497&bih=859 https://www.google.com/search?biw=1497&bih=859&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=L2r7WcjbGImqjwPfrL6oBw&q=bearing+puller&oq=bearing+puller&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.13466.15415.0.15607.14.14.0.0.0.0.146.1260.8j5.13.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.13.1257...0i67k1.0.-PS4kQ6p5Zg#imgrc=A96GtQP9J0Gg1M: maybe something like these would help

switched to koyo in 2005 when the stock one gave out. still running strong today.

i have the 1000lb one, same design but 4 wheels instead of 3. works fine for my rebuild, 750lb should be fine also. use the short transmission bolts that came out of the bellhousing to mount the engine. i'd put large washers on the bellhousing face so the steel mount tubes don't dig into the aluminum

Wait, are you talking about the seals on the transmission or the seals on the hub at the wheels. I'm thinking about the wheels...

Eww.. sounds like the hub might've pulled out a bit. At this point I'd be cobbling together a long bolt and washers to squeeze the hub back in place. Or just pick up one of those oncar bearing kits. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=on+car+bearing+kit&* Could also take the entire knuckle out, put a socket behind the inner race, and tap it back in with a hammer.

It's a split inner bearing race design for these model years. It might've come loose, just push from the back of the axle stub to get a few more threads. everything should sandwich back in place once the nut is tightened.

I had a similar problem when rebuilding a 2.5l turbo. No pressure after trying to crank for 3mins off and on. Took out the oil filter, cranked until oil flowed out of the filter area. Then put in the oil filter empty and cranked again, pressure came up almost immediately. Seems like having the oil filter filled and the pump dry would be enough to prevent the pump from priming properly. Hopefully this works out for you.

probably get a spray can of silicone lubricant with the straw nozzle and blast everything out. edit: oh you fixed it, awesome!

I've cobbled a jdm forester turbo 4.44 5mt into a USDM 03 wrx block before. Bolts right up, mine were female axle. Mine had dowel pins on the transmission and also on the engine block. Did some measurements and found it was simpler to tap out the ones on the jdm transmission and file the existing ones on the engine ever so slightly; probably not necessary. in retrospect, i should've just kept tapping in and out the dowel pin on the transmission side until the hole starts loosening up. you could probably skip all this and tighten the bolts for the last .25" if you're extra careful everything is lined up. speedo will read higher than normal but this was from a forester to an impreza.

Quote: Why wouldn't the oil filter keep the particles from doing damage to the rest of the engine? Oil filters have a relief valve that opens if there's a high enough pressure differential. It will open and bypass any filtering with cold oil or quick spurts of high revs.

Did the walbro 255 on mine, it's a longer pump than stock. I ended up using a pipe cutter and bubble flare tool to trim off about 1/4" on the assembly to make it fit. This is how it looked before trimming the pipe.

I've changed the lower portion before without dropping the rack. I remember a really hard fitting to loosen/tighten because there's no access for an open end wrench. I think I eventually got to it with a crows foot and several wobble extensions... and tape to hold things in place. It's awkward, you'll have to feel your way from the blind side. Car was 03 impreza. If I had to do it again, it would've been easier to disconnect the steering column link and drop the rack a couple inches.

The bolt didn't break off because it was seized. Chances are good you can back it out with some left hand drill bits.

if it's the smaller 5x100mm hubs, anything that fits an 06 wrx will fit on your 2006 2.5i. 2006 sti has the larger 5x114.3mm hubs and will not fit. just ask if it'll fit an 06 wrx, non-sti.

Yes, that's the one I was thinking about. The strut nut should work fine. $150 to use a wrench

Probably talking about the rear inner nut? Nothing special other than it's a locking flange nut. If the one you have is corrosion resistant it should be fine... or just paint it afterwards.