nvu

It's still the all mechanical one, just unhook the clutch cable and use a zip tie on the lever to lock it on always open mode. Search for disable hill holder for examples.

Does it have a hill holder? Those get gummed up and causes the brakes not to release.

B is right. You could probably trace back where C7 leads to and run off that. It's probably a good idea to figure out what C7 is and measure the voltage. Come to think of it, I've not any experience with newer cars with led gauges. I've been used to the 12v bulbs and assume they'd all be 12v. C7 >> diode + >> diode - >> led + >> led - >> ECM Put a real diode in between to protect the ecu.

I've replaced mine once, it started rattling and cracked again eventually. Seems like the plastic of that specific piece wasn't well made.

Looks like it, fairly sure the ecu sends a ground signal to turn on the light. But to be safe, hook up a multimeter in volt mode, black lead to pin 11, red to 12v. Check engine light is always on when motor isn't spinning and should go away when running.

I have both a 98 with a flip up and a 03 with the cracked dash cover. They don't look interchangeable.

Manuals are here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU

It's a coil spring on the base of the pedal. You can see it if you're on your back and shine a light up where the pedal pivot is. They never break. Actually while you're under there, check the entire brake/clutch bracket for any cracks from corrosion. It really sounds like something wrong with the hydraulics, to the point where it can't overcome the pedal assist spring.

The pedal is has a bistable helper spring mechanism. The first half of travel the spring wants to push it back up, when you pass halfway, the spring wants to pull the pedal down. Think of an old school light switch. Could you try pressing the clutch all the way down, then keeping it held down with a 2x4 or something. Check if the slave cyl is holding the fork down after an hour.

If you want to test the new fans, there's two green connectors under the driver side dash. When you connect them together, it throws the car into test mode. It cycles all the relays on and off. You should see the fans go from off, fast, slow. If you see only fast, it's probably a non-oem fan. Unplug the green connectors when you're done.

It's been so long ago, I forgot if it's taped up to the harness or was one of the connectors behind the inner fuse block. It was definitely hidden when I needed it. Remove the lower plastic panel and 2 x 10mm bolts on the metal protector bracket.

Not for subarus but cars in general. I haven't seen a real metal button since maybe vw bug days? They're all plastic.

It sounds like the low temp sensor is triggering. Assuming the compressor is good and there's no blockage in your refrigerant system, next step is check if the evaporator coil clogged with debris. Maybe some leaves got in and is blocking airflow causing the thing to freeze over. If it's making cold air consistently at max fan speed, likely just debris causing the evap to freeze over..

As long as the numbers are consistent across the board, it might just be a low reading compression tester. If the mechanic used a longer/bigger hose, the numbers will be lower. If you're seeing the mechanic, ask if he would test one cylinder of your own subaru.

Oh right, el freddo reminded me about the heater core circuit. When the thermostat is closed, a majority of the flow in the upper coolant tank gets pulled back thru the bottom tank port. It's taking whatever heat from the turbo and recirculating it through the engine. Pretty well thought out design. So that bottom port goes back directly to the waterpump suction side, or tee's into the heater core's suction side back to the water pump. It doesn't go to an output port from the head.

There's a line that goes out from the head and directly in the turbo. There are two coolant ports on the turbo, lower one is in, top one is out. The purple one shown is out from the turbo. If you push it hard enough, the turbo can get red hot. The tank is there to make sure the turbo is always covered in coolant even if the engine is off. It's also the at the highest point of the car, making it easier to purge air pockets. If you run your own tank, place it as higher than the turbo and make sure the line flows back into the turbo without any weird bends or loops that can trap air.

The yellow line is needed for constant flow from the upper tank to the radiator. The green line is just for moving coolant in and out of the reservoir tank. The yellow hose connects directly to the radiator. It allows the hot coolant to flow back into the radiator once the thermostat opens. The purple hose is heated coolant flowing out from the turbo. Also internally at the turbo tank, the yellow nipple extends to the bottom of that tank to prevent from pulling any bubbles. The green lines are for over pressure purging when the car coolant expands, and also sucking back coolant when the car cools. In normal operation it sees no flow. In that picture, the coolant caps are installed wrong. The tabbed cap should be up top, the circle one should be on the bottom. If you keep in mind, any coolant lines coming out from the heads is positive flow, air bubbles can collect at the highest point where they can be purged to the overflow. The tabbed cap opens first and is a 2way cap that also allows coolant to be sucked back in once the engine cools. The circle cap is higher pressured and is there as a fuse of sorts to prevent blowing out radiators should you get a bad headgasket blowing high pressures into the cooling system..

It would, maybe for 5 miles before the center diff breaks. That's the only easy thing left to check.

Check if the rear axles popped off. The rear axles could pop off from the diff but visibly look normal. Yank on them to find out. The pedal would be very soft and stick to the floor if the cable was broken.

like they say, fifth time's a charm!

1) It's two bolts and a hoseclamp to replace. If you've changed an oil filter before it's not much more complicated than that. Just look up any subaru thermostat replacement videos to get a general idea. Aisin is the oem brand for subaru thermostats. Just get those and be done with it. 2) It should be ok as long as it doesn't grind gears when shifting. Probably the linkage bushing is worn out and the shifter is flopping around. Look up subaru shift linkage replacement videos. Though a thermostat doesn't usually get stuck open unless it overheated badly enough to cause this.

If you're doing it yourself, NTN is the oem supplier for subaru. Look for those or BCA (NTN subsidiary, not made in japan). I haven't heard of counterfeit NTN parts out there yet, but wouldn't be surprised if they exist. Be wary and research online suppliers if it looks too good to be true.

the hoses are formed, but you could get away with whatever is closest to its shape. take your phone and peek around down there. you should see this thing. that's where the hose comes from. it's deep down in there. removing the intake is the recommended way, but why not try the throttle body first, it's just 4 bolts

I see, not the same issue then. I had a security alarm module on an older 98 go bad. It would toggle off and on really fast randomly, apparently it toggled the main relay along with it and would throw all sorts of lights. All the issues went away after removing the module and rewiring the car back to stock.

When you mentioned clicking relays, were they fast machine gun clicking? And by chance does your car come equipped with the subaru security alarm?