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Does it start going christmas lights only after you start the engine? If so it's likely a broken alternator regulator sending ac voltage in the system. Try unhooking the red charge wire on top of the alternator and starting the car.

I'm installing TGV sensors again and forgot the twisting procedure.... Was it always install it with the connectors facing up and then twisting it into place for both sides?

You just need to jumper the clutch switch that goes off on full depress. The clutch switch on slight press is the one that disengages cruise control, doesn't have anything to do with the starter. FYI

did you go from nonturbo to turbo? the p0420 is pretty tricky to catch even on the original car. even throwing on a different exhaust system could trigger it. don't try and chase the problem itself, but get other things dialed in and worry about p0420 last. the car will run fine with p0420 code and no other codes, at least anything before 2007. it just won't pass smog. with that, some things to check if you haven't done so already: your mass air flow sensor is probably okay. make sure the car runs strong in closed loop, no misfires or rough idling. part throttle should be smooth, put it in 1st and see if it can creep along smoothly in idle. creep along smoothly 1000-1500rpm. try 2nd gear if it's bucking or missing, then check your maf sensor, intake, vacuum leaks... on the exhaust side of things, make sure the entire path from engine to the rear cat has no leaks. the flex joint and gaskets just before and after the cat are usual suspects. test with whatever way you think will help, i don't know of any surefire way for me, i had one car that would pop a p0420 every couple months, even did pressure smoke testing and never found the anything. only by chance one year i decided to sand a rusty looking flange only to find that it was slightly bent, the other mating flange was bent in the same direction so everything mated up and sealed fine, but was C shaped ever so slightly, you can't even tell by eye. after getting everything flat again, the problem went away for good. still on original cat from 2002

I've never seen a solid sprocket like that before. All the subaru ones of that era look like the one in the first post you made. Clearance should be about 1-2 business card between sprocket and sensor. You timing looks good enough though.

Is the EJ251 like the old EJ22 sohc with only a single cam sensor? If so, I've had an EJ22 skip many teeth on the non-sensor side and not throw any code. Engine ran really rough on idle. The flashing cruise is an immediate misfire signal and doesn't set any code. I'd check timing again with just two covers removed.

next time you catch it happening, open the reservoir and shine a light in, have someone steer the wheel with engine on. if you see bubbles it's a hose leak.

Definitely disconnect the battery. Also I've had a wrench fall between the positive terminal and an ac line. After the sparks stopped there was a nice hole in the tube. Now I prefer pulling the negative side and leaving the positive terminal covered.

Be careful adjusting the hydraulic clutch pedal. The master cylinder rod needs to fully release when the clutch is all the way up. There's a tiny hole in the master piston that releases pressure when it's all the way released. This is to account for temperature changes and expansion. When the clutch pedal is fully up, there should be some play in the pin connecting the pedal to the master cyl rod. There's a spring in the slave cylinder that takes up the slack. There's no pretensioning to adjust over time like cable clutches, the spring in the slave cyl self adjusts after every press and release. It sounds like either there's air in the system from a bad slave seal or the hose is rotting out. Also could be cracked clutch fork.

Used to always clean out and replace the factory bearing grease whenever I install new ones. I've noticed they come in sealed plastic pouches and already greased. Is this already wheel bearing grease and ready to install? I'm getting older and lazier these days. This is for NTN or Koyo press in bearings on earlier subarus.

The radiator endtank is plastic, gets brittle and cracks easily, even when leaning over the engine bay and you inadvertently put your weight on it. The hose is likely fused to the nipple, cut it and peel away if needed. Also don't go overboard tightening the hose clamp on the radiator end.

I've recently noticed this with a bad tensioner; the side with the two smooth idlers, you could grab the top belt with your fingers and bottom belt with your thumbs and squeeze by hand. I had a failing tensioner and was able to see it move way too freely when squeezing. I've not tried this on an engine with a good tensioner, but pretty sure you wouldn't be able to move it with just hand strength.

Great writeup mpower! Those pictures really show the issue at hand.

I'm rebuilding a 2004ish era EJ DOHC. I'm wondering if a stretch belt for the AC from a newer gen would fit. Has anyone tried this before? Was it worth the swap or just more hassle to install/remove?

For a '96, it probably needs a new upper radiator hose. Squeeze the hose with your hand, if you hear crunchy sounds it's time for a replacement.

That kit doesn't have seals included, new bearings won't last long if water and dirt get in. Get new seals to go with your model, fronts and rears are different sizes so pick appropriately. The video is for a newer subaru with integrated bearing and hub unit. Your 2002 is a lot more involved, the bearings would need a press to remove and install. There are snap ring and seals to contend with.

I'd worry less about silica and more if there are flakes in the oil. Silica can be remedied: better filter or shorter intervals between changes.

Yup dohc cam plugs https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2004_STI-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-SEDAN/Engine-Camshaft-Plug/49223411/11051AA070.html

I haven't worked on it myself. From what I understand with the USDM immobilizers starting on 05 on, they are matched to the ecu that came with the car. People doing engine swaps have the old key taped to the immobilizer antenna and tucked away. We didn't get immobilizer models in US until 2005 so I'm guessing your 99 would be the older style. It's not simple voltage/resistor to bypass. https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/what-does-it-mean-that-my-subaru-is-immobilized

Good to know. It's only been a little over a year for me. I'll check on it every once in a while and report back.

They were all dirty or cracked bushings, definitely failing state. I've only went with window weld if was too lazy to take things apart, though nowadays window weld is pricier than getting replacement bushings. I did have one that needed extra stiff bushings, so used concrete leveler. Needed to make molds to pour it in, but it completely filled the voids after some days of curing. It was definitely close to solid, had to tap it in with mallet. Car already had stiff cusco style transmission and engine mounts, so a little more noise from solid diff mounts isn't an issue. It was $7 at home depot.

I've done a couple, it's okay if you want to do it on car. More than likely you'll need to soap and water to get the grime off. Brake cleaner or acetone is fine. mainly to get the water off.

The first oil change is to flush out and machining swarf and loose particles. Put in conventional oil now, cut open the filter and inspect oil. It's an EJ25 with standard rings and metal headgasket, after the first oil change and you don't find unusual glitter, just drive it hard and get the seating over with. Get it warm, accelerate harder than usual, use lots of engine braking in between.

Great to hear things are fixed! Also you're talking about the pod on top center of the dash? I have a 2003 impreza and it cracked, replaced it with a 2006 one, it also cracked. The plastic just gets brittle over time. I've given up repairing it and covered the hole with some scrap plastic sheeting and double stick tape.

If you're doing timing belt, break loose the crank bolt before taking out the engine. On retightning, service manual probably says 90ftlb's, I'd do 100-110ftlb's.