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nvu

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Everything posted by nvu

  1. nvu
    For the engine, doesn't matter much. Possibly help other mechanics not expecting a burning hot object so high up on the engine. That's where the trans dipstick is.
  2. nvu
    is the car in your posession? sounds like gaskets weren't done right from your story. you just need to confirm. no need to flush, start the car with engine cold. leave the radiator cap open and top off with plain water. idle it for 15-20mins, topping off with water until it's warm and the fans kick on. if you're seeing bubbles everytime you rev it, thats pretty much headgaskets. if not, it might be cracked radiator or leaking hose joints, because you mentioned steam. either way, if there's no bubbles, put the cap on and drive around, soon as the needle inches up, pull over and check if the reservoir is bubbling. any bubbles by now is headgaskets.
  3. nvu
    probably a good idea to install an oil gauge at this point. it's a non turbo so you probably have plenty of room to tap into the rear oil gallery plug. search for oil pressure sender gauges. i prefer the metal can looking ones with no plastic connectors that melt when placed near a turbo. don't ask how i know. it doesnt have to be routed inside. the gauge could live in the engine bay for diagnostic, taped to the hood, or unplugged if not needed.
  4. nvu
    Is the mount still not in the hole? Had something similar happen before. The bolts didnt line up with the crossmember holes. I think I removed the dogbone and put a ratchet strap on there to pull the entire engine back towards the firewall. Then slowly lower it while prying things into place scrap wood sticks. Like lower it so it barely presses the metal, then pry it until it slots in the hole. No ideas on the whining noises.
  5. nvu
    On a forester, everything is lifted an inch vs impreza chassis. If you had a forester body and put the impreza shaft in, you can put washers to lower the mount point. Not sure if anyone's done the reverse.
  6. nvu
    Haven't confirmed myself, but I believe Foresters have thicker carrier mount vs imprezas.
  7. nvu
    One area under the turbo that could leak, the drain port, gasket and tube. If you can get a good view of that, it would rule out the turbo. Here's where it is on a car with no lower heatshield.
  8. nvu
    Wastegate looks fine, clean it up and no lube if you feel like. BTW, your oil feed line looks bone dry. Don't touch it if you don't need to. At this point it's probably work hardened and probably will crack if you fiddle with it. Probably use an old cellphone and record video, tape it on a stick. Look under the turbo see if it's wet. Hopefully it's not the turbo and something else on the car.
  9. nvu
    Just pick some more up from the hardware store or online, They're M6 10mm hex head bolts, flanged is better or you can use washers with nonflanged ones. You probably don't want lock washers, these bolts heatcycle the most and like to corrode and fuse in place. It's better to have them loosen than get stuck and rounded off in the car. They just hold the heatshield in place any length is fine, probably 10-20mm is good enough.
  10. nvu
    SOHC will be the only guarantee of noninterference. With DOHC, if only one cam slips timing, it could cause the valves to collide. Thicker headgaskets and more boost is asking for headgasket failure. Only pre96 sohc heads were noninterference. Change the timing belt and idlers at the service intervals. It's usually the cogged idler that fails and takes out the belt. Very rarely does the belt fail for no reason.
  11. nvu
    It almost sounds like the clutch pedal doesn't fully release when you let off. I'd be looking at the master cylinder and pedal assembly for cracks. 02-05 tends to crack where the pedals mount onto the top of firewall. At this point might as well take apart both master and slave cylinders and clean them out. Maybe a clog or kink in the line is causing slow let off.
  12. nvu
    You don't need the exact alternator. I've thrown a '18 sti alternator in my 03 wrx. Just get the matching pigtail connector and splice it into the harness. Newer alternators have 3 wires, only two are used if it's an older model. As long as the alternator physically fits. You might have to get creative if the positive terminal is located differently between models. I'd say pull all the fuses and relays. Only leave enough in so the engine can start and run.
  13. nvu
    You mentioned it's coming off your usdm engine and not new. If the old engine had any bearing or piston issues, chances are high the cooler's already contaminated. Look more closely into reusing the cooler and decide for yourself. FWIW, I'm not running any factory oil cooler on my EJ257 swapped car. It's been at least 8 years now. No heat issues if you're worried about that.
  14. nvu
    post some pictures maybe
  15. nvu
    it's english http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2013/Impreza and XV Crosstrek Service Manual/
  16. nvu
    not sure on legacies, but on my imprezas, the ujoint bolts are reachable in the engine bay. if you unhook the steering column from the inside and let the wheel rest on the front seat. there's enough play to unhook the ujoint and flip the wheel around. do it with the battery unplugged because airbags
  17. nvu
    I've never used evoscan before, but it looks like the error message says the laptop can't even see your usb adapter. It looks like a problem between the laptop and adapter itself. Do you have a Windows 7 laptop to try it on? I'm looking at the evoscan web page and it doesn't say anywhere that it supports Windows 10
  18. nvu
    Yeah, the orings far away from the compressor rarely fail if left untouched. Though if you already loosened them, might as well replace them since you're there. Get an oring assortment box from wherever is convenient. The expansion valve, probably a quick glance will tell if you need a new one. If it's gunked up, looks corroded, just pick up any generic one that fits. You could try freezing it to see if it closes, it's probably not worth the effort. Oh the schrader valves could leak, though those are easily replaceable and can be done anytime.
  19. nvu
    You'll have to access it through the glovebox. Take out the entire fan/duct assembly to make life easier. Once you do that, there's a white cover with 3 or 4 screws holding it on. It's in the rearmost center console, near the floor. You'll be working around the passenger airbag, unplug the battery beforehand. There's a single nut that hangs the fan assembly way up near where the airbag is. Probably a cable bundle hanging from it. The expansion valve is sandwiched between the evap and external lines, when putting it all back together, get a helper to push on the engine side while you push from the cabin side. Try not to depend on the tiny bolts to pull everything together, it's easy to crossthread them. Other common places for leakage are the orings on the compressor and wherever there's a rubber hose to pipe coupler.
  20. nvu
    Find a local used tire center. Bring a tape roll measure or probably get by with string. Measure the circumferences of the tires. I think 1/4" difference is within specs for most cars.
  21. nvu
    Yeah, search for balljoint boots.
  22. nvu
    Just vent to atmosphere, it's a schrader valve on the low side. like a car tire, put something in there and press the pin to release. Maybe 1/2 second burst and try testing again. Do it sparingly though, probably stop by the 5th time if nothing changes. There's not much refrigerant in these cars, usually you'll get out 90% of it if you hold the release for 10 secs. The rest comes out in less than 30 secs
  23. nvu
    Likely compressor, but also other things to check. Let's assume the system is somehow overcharging and causing enough back pressure to seize the compressor. It could also be blockage or a kink in the lines. Let off some gas a bit at a time and see if things improve. Since the worst case is replacing the compressor anyways. And if you do end up taking it apart, consider taking time to remove the expansion valve and look at the oil that comes out of the evap core. Dark and black is not the best, but normal wear and tear. Poke something in the lines like a pipe cleaner or qtip, if there's clumpy stuff or sludge, that's what's causing the clogs. Usually replacing the entire evap core is less hassle than flushing. Get a box of those assorted green hbnr orings beforehand.
  24. nvu
    I have a 98 OBS, it's the impreza version 2.5l sohc slightly higher compression frankenmotor, but likely same ac system. The initial kick in sometimes makes a squeak noise, but engine doesn't even flinch in power. Doubt it's the flywheel. If you're in gear already all the weight of the drivetrain plus pulling the vehicle is a bit bigger than just a 10lb lighter flywheel. It's probably more electrical and sensors than physical. If you want to make sure, just loosen the ac belt so it lightly grips the pulley. Next time the ac kicks in if it really is the pump seizing up, the belt would make slipping noises and you'd lose less power. Doubt it though, compressor pumps either work or make horrible noises before seizing up. I'm just guessing at this point, I don't know either, but could an overcharged system do this? Also if the clutch is somehow shorted out, would the coils pull so much amps it makes the electrics go haywire?
  25. nvu
    Do you have a low pressure light or oil pressure gauge installed? Rod knock is easy to diagnose on subarus. With engine warmed up to normal temps, rev it up really quick and snap the throttle shut with your hand. You might hear light tapping on a worn engine, which is okay. You'll definitely know if it's knocking. If that test seems ok it's likely the tensioner or something wrong with oil pump/pickup tube.
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