Mike386

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the input. I'd like to say how much this site and everyone here has helped me in the past with keeping my suby on the road and out of the scrap yard! Thanks! -Mike

It was in 2wd when it was towed. I have always heard that you should tow 4wd's on a flatbed to prevent any possible damage, but you're right, there is no differential between the front and rear wheels. It's just that I haven't driven this car for a few months (engine replacement) and I'm trying to reacquaint myself with its oddities. Thanks!

I had my 88 GL 4WD WGN towed home (about 3 miles) on its rear wheels, I know, I know, that’s not good for a 4WD, but at the time I had no other option. Now when I engage the 4wd it works fine in high and low, but I have to push down hard on the level to disengage it and it gives a big “clunk” when it releases. Is the syncro damaged or out of alignment? What can be done to correct it, and if not can I continue to drive it in 2wd?

Basically what I am asking is, is Gabriel Utlra's a wimpy ho-hum shock or are they doable?

About $90 for the sachs strut and $57 for the Gabriels, shocks 55/32 KYB/Gabriel.

Question: I need to replace my shocks and struts on my 88 GL wagon and I know Sachs and KYB are up at the top when it comes to quality, but how do Gabriel Ultra compare? I mainly drive city and highway and very little dirt or off road, just to get to my favorite fishing spots. I’d like to save some money with the Gabriel’s, but should I. -Mike

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the input. I believe this "new" engine is going to finally ROAR! -Mike

Cool! :cool: If I mount the new pump up in the engine compartment, can I leave the old pump in line or should I pull it? And of course it started snowing tonight. Well, hopefully this weekend is suppose to be warm. Oh well, life in Colorado... Thanks for the info. -Mike

I recently swapped an 85 XT MPFI engine into my 88 GL WGN (formally spfi), but I forgot to pull the XT fuel pump. In the manual it says the spfi pump runs at 28-43 psi and the mpfi pump runs at 61-71 psi. Could this be causing my hesitation in acceleration? Once the engine finely revs up the power picks up. And, is there an inexpensive after market pump that would work well for me? -Mike

Are you fairly good with tools? A set of metric tools, a torque wrench, a Chilton or Haynes manual, and a $20-$30 set of gaskets may save you. You don't even have to pull the engine to do it. Also rent or buy a compression gauge and test the cylinders both sides of the engine. If you do it yourself, also replace the o-ring on the bottom of the cam towers, they're usually hard and cracked which decreases the amount of oil that goes to the hydraulic lifters. -Mike

Thanks for the response, I'll check it out tomorrow. -Mike

I just finished putting in an '85 XT MPFI Engine into my '88 GL WGN (spfi - engine died). The problem I'm having is with the idle after warm up. When I start the engine cold, it goes to high idle just fine and runs smooth. But when it warms up it will intermittently "flutter" and drops rpm, then tries to recover; and when I try to rev it a little it will "flutter" until the rpm get way up. Do I have a vacuum problem or a sensor issue? Help!

Double check the axle nut, it may seem tight but if it isn't torque to 145 ft/bls it will make that noise. When driving 50+ mph as you described, the centrifugal force will take the uneven load off the bearing thus quieting it. I had the same problem once.

Ya think?!

The shredded timing belt may have simply snapped (belts should be changed out around every 60K miles). Check the center drive shaft with a 19mm socket and a breaker-bar and see if it will rotate. Also check the cams to see if they will turn (you may need a special tool to turn those). If they turn, then try a new set of belts. 1. Rear axle nut: 36mm socket and an 18" to 25" breaker-bar and stand on it! If it still won't budge, then heat up the nut with a hand held propane torch, then let it cool. The expansion / contraction can help break it loose. Note: when you tighten it back on, be sure to torque it to 145 ft/bls (push it to 110 ft/bls first, then to 145) otherwise the bearings will be loose and make a nasty grinding noise when you're driving. 2. No fan? There should be... Look closely at the pulleys towards the driver's side of the engine; one should have four mounting bolts for clutch driven fan. On the passenger's side, mounted to the radiator you should have an auxiliary electric fan. 3. Binding wheels? There is no differential slip between the front and rear when 4WD is engaged. Turning tight corners on dry pavement in 4WD will cause binding and grinding. You can damage the 4WD doing that. Only engage the 4WD on snow/mud/dirt roads where the tires will naturally slip and release the tension. Newer 4WD’s have a slip differential to compensate for this problem. -Mike 88 GL 4WD WGN