andrsn

I did a write up of it as well, feel free to scope it out. It's pretty easy aside from the front strut blocks. I build a little jig for the front blocks, it just ensures for x" of lift you are offset x". https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163207-83-brat-build-thread-with-questions/?do=findComment&comment=1365398

I was considering selling my project, I still am for the right price. I was driving around the other day and its inspired me to keep my dream alive and continue working on it. I just ordered what I hope are all the things I might need to get it on the road: -disc caliper rebuild kits -power steering pump rebuild kit and tie rods/ball joints -new O2 sensor Hopefully that'll address the brake pulling and steering shimmy issues. I'll also take it around the corner to have an alignment/balance done once I get steering stuff installed. I'm pretty busy trying to finish up a remodel in the basement of my house right now... hopefully I can get my permits completed soon and then dig into the BRAT. I also bought a 1958 Triumph motorcycle... so too many projects but driving this car around is toooo fun.

Sorry to go off topic but do earlier ej22's (1991-obd1) have 1 o2 sensor or 2?

I got some in the same spots between cab and bed... what a pain

Love those old wagons, can't wait to see it progress! Always excited to see some local builds.

I wish I would have done mine this way. I'm at the point now where the car is running and driving seemingly fine but its failing DEQ. I'm guessing I just didn't hook something up correctly in my wiring as the donor car I got it from had passed DEQ a few months before I bought it...

I've used a lot of different methods for rust removal. Mostly for smaller parts and motorcycle gas tanks. I have to agree in saying that if you follow the instructions you can get great results. I also use vinegar and electrolysis for rust removal, both of which take a bit longer but can be just as effective. But typically when I'm doing rust removal I do the following: 1. brush/scrape/sand off rust as best as possible 2. use a rust remover - POR15, vinegar bath or electrolysis for as long as necessary 3. use an etching product to prep surface for paint or sealers depending on the method used to de-rust (POR15 Metal Prep is usually what I use) 4. apply primer/sealer etc... Other products to check out that I've found nice to have on hand over the years: RedKote - I have found it to be far far far superior to all other tank sealing products. Kreem is the absolute worst, POR15 is ok, but ReKote works soooo much better. Don't waste your time with the other brands, just not worth the headache that can ensue if every step isn't 100% perfectly executed. Penetrol - This is a paint additive (thinner/reducer/sealer) and a favorite of mine. On its own, it is a great clear sealer. I've used it on all kinds of outdoor metal project that I want to keep from rusting or stop rusting where it is and keep a 'patina'. It takes forever to dry but dries smooth and hard. Its also great in its intended use as a paint additive, I've had excellent luck getting decent looking and durable brush paint jobs on metal. Japan Drier - This is great for expediting drying times of oil based paints, can be used in conjunction with Penetrol but it still seems to take forever to dry. Rustoleum oil based metal primer/paints - These are compatible with the above items and are great to have around when you just want something to be kinda close in color but mostly just don't want it to rust again. I keep a can of primer around and a can of each Yellow/Blue/Red so I can mix stuff to get whatever color I need. ***Above all, read all product directions and product compatibility

If the blocks don't move the shock mounts in towards the car, something is off. If the lower mounting holes are offset, you may just need to let things settle but its really hard to tell from your picture.

on my 83' brat there is a pink connector terminal near the right strut tower/ac stuff. it is a test terminal i believe and if I remember, one of them will supply 12v constant. you can use a multimeter to determine which one it is

I'll try and hook up a light and check the codes this weekend but then I'll be out of town for 2 weeks. The engine came from a FWD 1993 Legacy. Its an OBDI non-interference engine with about 120k on it. I looked over the service records that came with the car and it appears it logged an o2 sensor and TPS error before I owned it that may not have gotten fixed. I'll probably start at the o2 sensor.

Yeah, I'm required to meet the standards of the original engine/car so I assumed the EJ would breeze through... I feel confident the catalytic converter is fine, the donor car had recently passed DEQ no problems when I got it. It failed at both idle and cruise. That is a long list of things to check... good thing I'm about to head off on vacation. I did replace the timing belt when I had the engine out. I thought as long as the belt was on the correct teeth there wasn't a way to adjust the timing. I can't find any write ups online for adjust timing on these engines, just how to install the belt. Would it run even half way decent if I installed the belt 1 tooth off? I was pretty careful doing it... but I am learning a lot of this stuff for the first time.

Hey crew, I recently got everything sorted on my 83' BRAT (EJ22 swap with a 5spd D/R) and I thought it was running great. It seems to start up/idle/run just fine but I took it down to DEQ the other day to get some new tags and it failed! It failed for unburnt hydrocarbons and 1 other thing that I can post to the board when I get home. The car has some other driving issues and needs an alignment so I am planning on taking it to a shop here in town soon because I'm sick of working on it. I would like to save the shop the nightmare of sorting through the wiring if that could possibly be the DEQ fail culprit. Keeping in mind it seems to run decently, is there anything in the harness I could have forgotten that could cause a DEQ failure? Thanks all.

sent a pm regarding the rear tailgate 'Subaru GL' emblem. thanks

I've had the opposite problem. My oil pressure and temp gauges are wild but my battery charge seems to be accurate. They go from zero to hero and back over and over. I bought a cheap set of Bosch aftermarket gauges. Once I get them wired in and working I'll take the stock gauge cluster apart and mount them in there so they look clean. With a recent ej swap, its piece of mind...

I haven't heard of anyone pushing the lower control arms out to correct camber, not to say it wouldn't work. It is necessary to offset the strut spacers when lifting the car to retain camber, I'd guess you could probably just adjust it at its stock height by offsetting the mount (you'd have to remove some material for clearance etc).

Also you don't wanna use a tap for repairing existing threads. If you're just cleaning up existing threads you want a thread chaser. A tap will remove material whereas a thread chaser will just clean up existing threads. When I have bad thread issues, I've done all sorts of things to make repairs. If you can access both sides of the thing you're trying to thread my favorite is to drill the hole out really big and then make an insert with lip on one side, that way the nut/bolt can't pull the insert through the drilled out hole. But usually you don't have that type of access and its just a pain....

So I haven't locked the doors on my BRAT in months because it wasn't capable of driving and didn't have any valuables inside. That has recently changed so I started locking it, unfortunately the door locks have always been really troublesome and now they don't unlock. Does anybody know of a universal lock cylinder replacement or a surefire way to rebuild what I have? I think I also need to replace my ignition switch due to the fact that the dash light stay on sometimes or engine will stay running after I turn the key to the off position. I did do an EJ swap but I don't think I could have caused those types of issues during the wiring job. There is a kit from Australia for all the locks and an ignition switch but its 200$ which is way more than I was hoping to spend on this repair. Suggestions?

Got my brakes bled and took the BRAT for a drive around the neighborhood this Sunday. The new engine/transmission/lift combo is awesome! I've still gotta get all my gauges and a bunch of small things buttoned up but this car is super fun to drive.

I wish I could help, I just wired up my EJ swap. I'm not even sure what the 'black fusible link' is. I just have constant power direct from battery through a fuse to the ecu backup power and fuel pump/starter relay, switched power to my harness from the ign switch, crank setting to starter from ign switch and my alternator wired through the EA81 harness.

Yeah, that's what I've slowly come to realize. I still have all the wiring bits I didn't use in a bag. I know the relay and wires for the fan relay are in there somewhere. thanks.

I do need to get my universal radiator fans hooked up. The fans I got just have 2 wires but my original wire harness has 3 wires where it used to plug into the radiator fans. Anyone have newer 2 wire universal fans wired to their stock ea81 harness and care to share how they wires it up? thanks

I had missed one switched wire yesterday, got it fire up running real nice today. Super pumped!!! I've got a bunch of odds and ends to tie up before I can take it for a spin but I'm really excited.

When it does catch it just kinda sputters and dies out. It'll only catch on the first try after i've had the fuel pump going for a bit. I also have my fuel pump jumped straight to 12v power because I can't seem to get it to operate through the relay correctly (my fault, not the relay). I have a pump from a turbo gl. Just to confirm, in the image below the top of the pump (smaller spigot coming out at 90deg) goes to the engine and the bottom would come from the tank right? Also i have the pressurized fuel from the pump going into the top fuel inlet barb on the engine (above photo shows it going through the stock ej filter and into the engine). Is that all correct?

Got all my wiring temporarily run. I can get it to crank and catch but it won't run. I've got a few things to try before I start asking for specific help but I'm close, I can smell it.

Well, I'm interested to know what you do. I think I read a post in some thread on here by a person who ran all the stock stuff for years and never had a problem... I do wanna build a surge tank eventually.