andrsn

I went with the barb adapters and my stock hard lines. I thought about running a bigger line but then realized that no matter what you do, if you don't put bigger barbs on your tank it doesn't really matter how big your lines are further down the supply chain... at least that's my thinking about the matter. I haven't run it yet but hopefully it'll get enough fuel as I have it set up.

I needed that belt part number too, thanks!

I had a very similar issue with my BRAT when I first got it. It'd idle up super high now and again but I could usually get it to kick down to 800 rpms by blipping the throttle. I'd second checking your timing and distributor. I replaced all kinds of vacuum junk without much luck, adjusting the timing and choke settings eventually got it running right (well, right enough to pass emissions with a lean mixture setting) but never perfect.

I'm trying to get a stock looking cabin but want to add a Aux 3.5mm stereo jack so I can play music from my phone. My BRAT came with a big amp and stereo hooked up to a hacked up dash and stereo. I sourced a stock stereo set up but anyone have any advice on how to add a stereo jack to the stock tape/radio decks and run it through the amp?

yeah, makes it extremely easy...

I live in North Portland, I can cut them super precisely in about 20mins. I will only charge you 1 burrito or a six pack...

I can help you re-drill your flywheel if you need...

Awesome! Love that old hatch. What part of Portland town do you live in?

Does anyone know if it's possible to have the axle's incorrectly matted to the trans? The spline count is correct and they slid on just fine but the hole for the roll pins is like 1/2 the size that it should be. Maybe they're rotated 180deg. from where they should be? is that possible?

I am swapping the battery to the drivers side. It'll make the intake fit much more easily.

Finally finished up a bunch of small parts. I made an intake manifold/mount for my intake air cone filter. I want my stock gauges to work with the EJ22 so I made an upper radiator hose reducer sleeve with a threaded hole for my coolant temp sensor. I made another without the temp sensor hole for my lower hose, what a tight fit that was... but I evaded buying any hoses. I also ran a little braided line to a special T piece to run the mechanic oil pressure gauge along with the stock EJ pressure gauge. I'd like to get the EJ ECU to run without engine codes constantly flashing if possible.

I had the exact same issue when I put the 5spd D/R in my ea81 Brat. Different car but same problem, It wouldn't go into those gears once the console was on. I shortened all my linkages about 20mm and not its perfect. I wouldn't think you'd have the same issue with a 93' loyale, but I bet the linkages are just a bit too long.

The threads of the larger oil pressure sender in the picture (for the mechanical guages) is definetly 19tpi, that's what i was referring to. the smaller one that came on the ej engine is the 27 or 28 tpi.

If someone knows off the top of their head how the heater hoses connect from the firewall to my EJ22 engine, I'd appreciate it. I currently have the top hose from firewall hooked up to the top inlet pipe on the engine. Is that right?

I'm currently messing around with putting my ea81 mechanical oil pressure sender unit on an ej engine. My EA81 oil pressure sender has 3/8 BSPT threads. The 3/8 BSPT has 19 threads per inch and is about 5/8" outside diameter.

Here is my write up for making the lift kit minus the strut blocks (those are a bit more complicated but can be purchased readily from a few people online as I'm sure you all know). Lemme know if you notice any errors and I'll try and correct them for future use by the community. Once strut tower blocks have been purchased or fabricated, you will need the following to complete your lift kit: Tools- Drill Press ½” drill bit (set drill press to 750 rpm’s or lower when drilling steel) 17mm and 19mm sockets with 3” extension and driver Jack, jack stands, simple hand tools (file, screw driver, breaker bar etc.) Materials- ***order your pieces of steel cut to length if you do not have an efficient way to cut it yourself. All tubing should be rectangular tubing 2” x (desired lift height) @ ¼” thick walls. I’ve found that onlinemetals.com is easy to work with but because shipping will kill you, call around to local steel suppliers and see if they’ll cut small pieces to length for you. Purchase all bolts at the highest grade available, at least grade 8.8 or whatever grade the bolt you removed was. Front Blocks -6 pieces cut 2” long -2 pieces cut 7” long Rear Blocks -4 pieces cut 2” long ***note that this is the same dimension as the 2” long Front Blocks above. If you’re doing an even lift for the whole car just add this quantity to the quantity above for a total of 10 pieces cut 2” long, if you’re doing a different front vs. rear lift height these pieces will be a different height than the Front Blocks. Differential drop plate -steel plate 4” x (desired lift height +1”) @ ¼” thickness Hardware 4qty: 10 x 1.5 x 35mm bolt with washers/lock washers/nuts. These are for the front 7” long blocks. 12qty (4” or more rear lift) or 8qty (3” or less rear lift): 12 x 1.5 x 35mm bolt with washers/lock washers/nuts. ***if lift is 3” or less in the rear, you will have to buy longer bolts for your blocks because the stock bolts you remove will be too long to fit inside your lift blocks. You will need 4 qty of these bolts. Stock bolts are 60mm long, for every inch of lift add 25mm to your bolt length: 1” lift = 12x1.25, 85mm 2” lift = 12x1.25, 110mm [ 3” lift = 12x1.25, 135mm Drilling the holes- Make sure you have a way to clamp your workpiece to your drill press adequately. I recommend using a ½ drill bit which is just over 12mm in diameter. You can choose to use a slightly smaller drill bit for the 7” long blocks since the bolts are 10mm but a ½ is probably fine. 2” Long Blocks -There should be 10 of these pieces total, 6 front, 4 rear. Drill ½” holes, more or less in the center of the 2” blocks. The X” below represents your lift height. Drill the holes in one pass (don’t drill one side then flip the piece over to drill the other side, you’ll run the risk of getting the holes out of alignment) 7” Long Blocks -There should be 2 of these. Use the bracket from you engine bay to accurately place your holes. The holes should be approximately 142mm from center to center. One hole should be centered in the middle of the block while the other should be offset from the center ¼”. ***You need to end up with 2 of these being mirror images of one another. Luckily since you can flip them over and turn them around so you can’t screw it up. Rear Differential Plate Drill 4 holes in a rectangular pattern. The centers of the holes should be 8cm apart X the lift kit height. The X” below represents your lift height. *if you are going with a 2” lift or less you will need to remove some material from the differential cross bar so the new bolt locations can clear the crossbar. Make your life easier and just remove the differential cross bar completely instead of altering it while installed on your vehicle. General notes/tips ***if you have a 2 piece drive line you will need 2 additional blocks to space down the center mount properly. I did not have this setup and cannot speak to it 100% but I would assume an additional 2qty. 2” blocks would do the trick. ***do the front/rear ends of your car separately. Be extra careful when doing the front, if the engine crossmember and transmission cross members are not supported well enough they will want to tilt when disconnected from the frame. This will cause a lot of headache and could cause harm. I lifted my BRAT with the engine and transmission removed and the cross members still wanted to come out of alignment. ***if you are lifting your car 4” or more I would strongly recommend “tying” all your lift blocks together by welding some angle or flat bar between the blocks. This will greatly reduce the chance of driving forces being unevenly applied to the blocks and causing issues. It would be easiest to install the lift and weld the “ties” in afterwards, and this way you can practice upside down welding. ***If you lifting 2”, bolt the blocks to the engine crossmember before the car frame. You can quickly run out of space to operate inside a 2” block, if you put the bolts through the holes before reinstalling the nuts onto the studs it’ll make your life a little easier. Do the same for all the other blocks. ***it is easiest to just replace the rear shocks. You could make a spacer for them but I wouldn’t make one longer than 2”, the bolt spacing is fairly narrow and I would be a bit worried about a failure given the sturdiness of the top shock mount. I did a 2” lift and bought a set of KYB KYKG5504 struts. They fit lots of older American cars and come in various lengths. I just pushed out my old bushings/mounts and pressed them into these shocks, worked great. ***The lift blocks need to installed in the proper direction. The angle they are made at should compensate for wheel camber. Install the strut blocks in a manner that effectively moves the strut in towards the vehicle. Also be aware that they are not only directional side to side but front to back as well. Do one side at a time so you have a reference to compare to. ***When the lift is first installed your camber will probably look bad, let the suspensions settle and it should return to normal (which is still not the greatest). I cannot explain exactly how to install the kit, you really just need to understand where the blocks go. Here is the best video I’ve seen illustrating where to place all the pieces. lease note the fantastic accent!

Out of order, but if anyone needs a picture of a lift kit for reference... Here is mine all laid out.

I also have gotten a few questions about how I mounted my Legacy seats. Its hard to see everything in the picture. There are 2 pieces of 1" Angle Steel welded from side to side on the EJ seat frame. The pieces of angle steel have slots cut in them so the BRAT seat rails can move side to side. This provides about 1" of side to side seat adjustment. If you do this just make sure you peel the fabric back on the seat as far as possible and get it wet before welding anywhere near it. I also put some metal spacer material between the seat frame and fabric to minimize the heat. I didn't have any burning problems at all.

Re routed my exhaust so it'd be tucked up in the under carriage at least half way decent. Here are some pictures. What a pain it was crawling under that thing to test fit it all over and over. If I had a lift or rotisserie I'd do a full custom exhaust but without it, its just awful. My local exhaust shop didn't make anything easier either. They charged me 15$/ft. for aluminized tubing, what a rip off! If anyone ever needs tubing or pre bent pieces, Columbia Mandrel is the place. Even thick stainless is affordable from those folks, I don't know why I didn't just go there first. Sorry about the ranting.... it was weeks ago but I'm still pissed. For the most part its a stock EJ exhaust with some bends and sections added to fit the chasis. I also had a Magnaflow muffler from before that I put on there. The tailpipe came out right where I wanted it so all is well that ends well.

I'm in the process of finishing up my exhaust system. I didn't realize what a pain it would be to modify the ej exhaust so it tucks up nicely on my BRAT chassis. I really wish I had one of those car rotisseries... Anyway, now that I have everything in place I'm thinking I may have 'tucked' things up a little too close. Lemme know if ya'll think its an issue to have: 1. header pipes about 3/4" to the rubber tie rod boots 2. the catalytic converter (with heat shield on) about 1/2" from my trans x-member 3. the rear exhaust tube about 1/2" of an inch from my rear cv boot thanks as always

Yeah, my 5spd hi/lo is from an ea82. You can maintain the Brat 4wd shift lever handle and all the interior trim pieces. For the 4wd selector you just need to extend the Brat 4wd linkage about 30mm and make the hole at the trans. end a bit bigger. It's pretty easy to figure it out once you get it apart and see how it needs to attach. Just make sure you test fit it all before welding things together permanently. For the 5spd shifter linkage you need to shorten everything about 30mm. With the stock ea82 linkages your shifter will be placed too far back and once you have the Brat trim installed you won't be able to shift into 2nd, 4th or Reverse. You only need to shorten 2 pieces (the mounting bracket arm going from the underside of the transmission to the shifter perch and the linkage piece going from the shifter arm to the transmission). The trick to this is that both pieces are odd shapes/angles, you can't just cut 30mm of material out of each piece and get it perfect. I made a little jig so that the amount of material i removed from the pieces would effectively move the whole assembly forward 30mm. If you wanted to get around doing all that you could first cut away material from the mounting bracket until its right where you want it then tack weld/weld it together, then you could just do the same with the shift linkage until it fits. This would require a fair amount of test fitting but would probably get it close enough. Be careful to keep clearance between the linkage pieces and the output shaft of your transmission, its a close fit and it would be a bummer if there were interference when in 4wd...

I think it can be left out, there are a number of Nissan forums stating the same part in their vehicles is there to keep the cranking amps in check when starting. The Nissan people seem to say its optional so I'm gonna leave it out for now.

Since its been super hot this weekend, I've been in the basement working on my wiring harness. I'm pretty sure I can get rid of this resistor, I don't see mention of it in any of the ej22 swap wiring threads I've come across. anyone?

I got the steering linkage hooked up. Deleted the rubber disc coupler in favor of a steel plate. I extended the ej u joint coupler as much as i could without having anything interfere with the axle boots. The splined shafted extending from the rack is now shorter than stock, hopefully that won't wear the carrier bearing out too quick. I'll swap to power steering someday but I just wanna get this thing cruising while summer is still here. I also just made a spacer to extend my drive shaft 15mm, it was easier than taking it somewhere. I'm not even sure if the driveshaft has to be 100% engaged with the trans. splines, seems like they would design it to have a little 'wiggle room'. either way, the shaft carrier and everything is all bolted up and supported. I also figured out all the shift linkage stuff finally, I wanted to keep the stock levers and I was able to do so. I had to shorten up a few of the linkage pieces buts its all installed and shifting through all the gears now! It just barely hits the stereo but should clear when I put a factory stereo back in or I can bend the shifter just a tad more later on... I do have to say that these Legacy seats are sooo much better than the mystery seats that were in there before.

I just put a set of 1994 legacy seats in my BRAT/Brumpy. It did require me to weld some brackets on the underside of the Legacy seats. The mounting holes were very close but just different enough to require welding. I have the seats out right now if you'd like a picture...