andrsn

I have been taking the scenic route to the DEQ, but that is still only about 15mins. Next time I go I'll drive it a bit longer/harder. I guess my understanding of the mixture screw was a bit backwards, I'll reset it to 2-3 turns out from bottomed (but it seems start idling the smoothest around 4 turns out). I'll take the carb off to check my jets, blow out the passage ways again and lower the float level. I've started looking at my vacuum lines and they seem to all be in order, I'll take a look at the EGR and PCV stuff too. thanks for the tips i'll let ya' know what happens...

I'm trying to get my 227k mile Brat legally on the road here in Portland Oregon but it won't pass DEQ. I rebuilt the carb a couple months back and the car starts and runs great; pulls plenty strong, rev's well and hold a nice idle right around 800rpm's. To sum up my experiences: Trip 1 - failed putting out 2200ppm hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel), adjusted carb. much more carefully via air mixture screw Trip 2 - no air coming out of tailpipe caused by huge hole in muffler, replaced muffler with a Magnaflow (not sure how they got a reading the first time but whatever...) Trip 2 - failed putting out 580ppm hydrocarbons, replaced plugs and leaned out the mixture as much as possible without the mixture screw falling out Trip 3 - failed putting out around 600ppm hydrocarbons I have noticed that once the car is running i can unscrew the air mixture screw as much as i want without actually removing it and the engine doesn't seem to be affected, that seems odd. I did notice that the fuel level in the sight is on the high side, could that have anything to do with it? The car definitely needs the mixture screw in the correct position (about 4 turns out from closed) to start but once started it doesn't seem to matter... What should I try next? I would like to do an ej swap in the next 2yrs. so I'd prefer not to spend a ton of $$$ on a weber, cat etc... if I can avoid it. I gotta get this sweet ride back on the pavement!

So, bought my car a couple months back. Had to address a dirty carb, warped front rotor and replace the front CV axles. Got the car running pretty decent after rebuilding the carb. Replace the front rotors, pads and CV axles. Now its got this repetitive mechanical rubbing noise. I think it was there prior to the CV/Brake job, but honestly the CV's were so noisy I may not have noticed it. Now that the CV's seem good, Its very apparent. It rubs accord to speed and gets slightly worse/better when I'm turning. It will go away once and a while if I accelerate or brake harder than normal. Definitely sounds like its coming from the front, hard to tell which side. After the CV/Brake job I noticed the noise, took everything apart again, reset the pads and all seemed to be right. Could this be a wheel bearing? Check the brakes again? Any/all ideas would be really appreciated. Here's a picture, just cause its fun...

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded. Got the carb back on, somehow figured out where all the vacuum lines went and the brat fired up after a battery charge and a few turns of the engine. Haven't figured out if it solved the dying at stop signs issue, but i'll start another thread if it still isn't fixed. thanks

figure it out. all the parts game from the diaphragm assembly attached to the carb. None of the diagrams I had or found online illustrated this, below there is another model Hitachi that does illustrate the mystery pieces (part C and part #17): thanks so much for everyone who replied.

OK, #1 is resolved. to the best of my knowledge parts 2,3,4 came off of the carburetor during dis-assembly (I hadn't opened the rebuild packages until i had the carburetor taken apart/cleaned). I think 2,3 came out when I detached the throttle chamber. Pictured below are the mating surfaces that were separated when my mystery parts appeared (to the best of my recollection). There is only one hole that the ball bearing and spring will even fit in. The hole is threaded, but the screw that bolts these two parts together has a hole through it (part #40 in the diagram Sapper 157 posted above). I haven't seen anything in any diagram I've found with these parts though! anyone seen this before??? #4 I still don't know about, it looks like it came from a choke diaphragm as Gloyale stated, I'll see if it fits there. Is there supposed to be a large spring in there?

Looking for a little help from members that are familiar working on the Hitachi carbs. Got an 1983 Brat GL. Can't find the Hitachi serial number on the carb, but the rebuild kit I bought seems to match more or less. If someone can tell me where to find the model number I might be able to find a more correct diagram and solve all this myself! I have 4 parts that I cannot figure out where they came from, woops! I've been studying the exploded diagram that came with the rebuild kit, but I don't see them listed anywhere. I see the nylon ball listed in the diagram and that is in place but I don’t see a steel one anywhere? Parts in Question: I made a note where I believe the long needle pictured above goes: I also don't see how the long narrow spring clips onto the shaft that I drew a star around. Anyone know? there is a little hole in the shaft, does the end of the spring where its bent need to stick through that? doesn't seem right... thanks to anyone who can answer this. or if people have more carb diagrams somewhere? I can't find many online that are different than the one i have at home...

I'm in the process of rebuilding my Hitachi carburetor in hopes to get my ea81 engine on my '83 brat running a little better. I will also be replacing my vacuum lines. I'm really tempted to just get rid of the Hitachi and the gobs of vacuum BS and replace it with a Weber. Every time I open up the hood I'm floored by the complexity of the carb and associated vacuum lines, I'm used to working on motorcycle carbs from the 70's... My concern is whether or not it would pas Portland Oregon DEQ with a Weber. Anyone have any experience with this? If anyone here in portland has done this and passed i'd be really interested in hearing from you! thanks

Finally bought my dream car. Baby blue Brat GL. 1983, same as me! 240k on the car, supposedly 120k on a rebuilt or replace engine (can't confirm). Pretty clean for its age/mileage. Interior looks great, body is straight with only small little dings here and there. Traded it for a mountain bike and 1k on my local craigslist. But.... its got a few issues I need to take care of before I can fully rely on it and I was hoping for some input from ya'll. I'm no car mechanic, but I've worked on motorcycles for years, I have a small home machine shop and I'd consider myself mechanically inclined... 1. The front right CV axle feels pretty bad and the front left brake rotor shutters pretty bad when you brake hard. While I'm down there, would I be wise to just do both the CV's and both the rotors? 2. It seems more difficult than it should to get it into 1st gear. The clutch pedal has a lot of free play, maybe it'll be solved with a clutch adjustment. Do these things have mechanical or hydraulic clutches? Anyone have a link to an online manual? 3. Car idle is a bit troublesome and tends to die when you let your foot off the gas at a stop sign/light. Not sure where I should start with this, maybe time for a carb. rebuild? Anything more simple I should try first?