Subasaurus

if the tire has no date on the sidewall, then it's probably the original, i still need to get mine replaced since it looses air after about 45min, bridgestone is what Subaru used in it's early days when the vehicle was new. the "date" would be in an ovaled out spot on the sidewall, with numbers like "2305", standing for the 23rd week of 2005. "5112" stands for 51st week of 2012, hope that helps.

this might help some too. http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/gallery/wheels/wheels.html#wagonwheels

pretty sure the steelies, if they are original to the brat, are suppose to be white, but maybe someone else knows more about this than me. as for the jackmans, there's 2 style's of them, one being flat design and one being curved, gen 2 had the curved one if i remember correctly, except for 1980-1981 brat models, those got the new curved jackman wheels on older body gen.

i just remembered for some odd reason about your tach question, my brat does have a tach, it was my wagon that didn't, anyways early 1978 models, regardless of trim level came with only speedometer but no tachometer, somewhere around mid 1978 tachometers started to come out, unsure what models got tachometers or if they all did after a certain date.

lol they got lazy with mine with the inspection check. here's some other stuff that came with the vehicle when new, so if you find any of this other stuff, don't throw it away.

things to be extremely careful with while you keep the brat stored, that top canopy looking thing which is called a "Roof Spoiler" is EXTREMELY rare, i've been looking for one for years now, so that i would say is the rarest piece you have. next thing to becareful not to break are the front corner lights and the tail lights, everything else is somewhat findable with money and a couple of weeks of searching.

the 2 spoke steering wheel is odd for a GL, i thought GL's had 4 spoke steering wheels? mine is a GL but has only a speedometer but no tachometer, has the factory A/C, the dealer added A/C had control knobs above the shifter but below the radio. being AM/FM tells me it was mid trim or top trim. post your imagess on imgbb, then link them here and they'll appear as a full photo here. -some rare stuff on a brat that are hard to find for your knowledge- all 4 mudflaps, centercaps with the logo still in the center of them, uncracked tail lights, especially the passenger one, jumpseat seat belt covers, windshield, front rotors, front calipers, -some unrealistic rare stuff to have on the brat- uncracked dashboard, an original radiator that doesn't leak or been repaired lol, antenna that isn't bent, original seats that aren't torn, original floor mats, original carpet in the bed of the "truck", do post pictures!!

I bought from him and just received my package, honest, fast and trustworthy seller! if I need something else again I'll definitely be back.

i might be wrong but i thought you set the choke when the vehicle was fully warmed up and tuned properly in the fully open position?

it is a very obvious squirt of gasoline being injected into the carb too, you having to crank a lot sounds like the choke isn't calibrated correctly, i go rid of my electric auto choke and went with a mechanical manual cable driven choke cable that runs under the steering wheel, i've never looked back since.

has the "dealer A/C", i had it on my 79 wagon and it took like 20hp from the poor motor, when i got my blue brat, the compressor was locked up, so i gladly deleted it, now that i have this one though, im not sure if i want to put it back on the blue brat, the compressor spins freely on the parts brat, so i'm still trying to figure that one out. im just confused about the lack of A/C controls inside the cab, i thought the A/C controls were below the radio but above the shifter, but they seem to be non existant on this parts brat, regardless, i still have mine in the blue one.

spent 10+ years is salted roads, and 25+ years in Texas heat, so it's the worst of both worlds, honestly i'm glad it's in this bad of shape so i don't feel bad pulling parts from it. my baby which is the blue one has been in Texas it's whole life, and the only rust it has is where the drain plug is under the driver seat, but it's pretty much insignificant since the hole is only about 20% larger than what the original rubber plug was from factory. having them side by side really puts into perspective what salt does to cars, the part that stuns me the most is the tailgate that has a hole and a massive gash across the side like a monster's claw gashed across it, the taillights look like they were replaced right before they abandoned the brat all together. the passenger front wheel has actually disconnected from the control arm due to the rust, i think it's where the control arm connects to the "frame" of the vehicle, i actually pushed it back into place so it doesn't look so sad. haven't messed with the brat yet since i got it, gonna wait till weather cools down because it's hitting 105F here daily.

i always appreciate your input, you're always so knowledgeable on these older Subaru's. i was the one that bought that taillight from you on ebay like 6months ago or so.

yeah lots of it, the main things i was after were the tail lights, windshield, rotors, and the driver seatbelt, my current one was hanging on by like 6 threads, glad whoever owned this never buckled up lol.

here's the rest of the pictures, i'll be slowly taking it all apart and eventually just be left with the body, I noticed yesterday afternoon oil cap is missing, so that ain't good for internal components, probably has had the cap off for over 20+ years, oh well.

Unfortunately this Brat will not have a good ending, this vehicle is barely holding itself together, nonetheless I bought it for $300 (double scrap value) I offered the guy so it wouldn't go to the junk yard like he was intending to. I was planning on having 2 Brats running, but it looks like this one will just feed me parts for many years to come, more pictures to come tomorrow. ---backstory on the vehicle--- bought in 1980 as a 1979 model, the original owner would come down from Colorado to visit his family, in the 1990's it broke down in south Texas in a little town called Pleasanton TX (50 min from where I live). not sure how he went back home without it but never came back for it, was left outside for 20+years on the farm. farm sold to new owners 4 years ago, guy posts on facebook, I see the post and go get the vehicle before it ends up at the junkyard.

I noticed the red badge, what was the reason for the red on the badge? top of the line trim level?

that's one hell of an amazing first car for your kid to show off at school! I love Zero, more pictures of that one please!

i've also thought the same about this if i ever find rails for mine, drilling is really the only way to mount them securely without loosing them or someone holding onto one while it's parked and it falling off unfortunately. i mean, the mirrors are also brutally just screwed onto the door from new, so you can look at it that way so it doesn't hurt so much making a hole into the sheet metal.

thanks for this info! i haven't bothered with mine because i figured it was first gen specific, i can definitely find a third gen at a junkyard and get the back up switch out to put on mine. thank you!

they definitely will! if you ever find rotors in the rear of one say at some junkyard, TAKE THEM!!! I screwed up by not taking them when i saw them because the sun was strong that day, went home. the next weekend i went to grab them and there was a blank spot where the car would have been, i asked one of the yard workers, and turned out the vehicle was crushed and scrapped already, really sad when that happened, it was on a 87 GL-10.

clean bolts, clean threads, chase threads if needed, reassemble. i'm still going strong on my headgaskets after 4 years after reusing headbolts, I had the rare opportunity of having 2 EA-71's to work with and choose the best headbolts out of the bunch.

love it! I noticed you said one of the rotors was warped, are the rears disks or drums?

lucky you managed to salvage your lines, i had to run new lines from the tank itself on mine since either something inside was blocking it that required more than 120psi, or it rusted inside the metal line itself and was blocking fuel.

someone took the windshield already...