Subasaurus

if he can find another Baja in the first place... only ever seen 3 in my life, and 2 happened to be bright yellow, probably the same one a few years later. then again im not really in a friendly Subaru city either, and it never snows here so that might explain that too.

sounds like you're too low on Freon, borderline before the compressor just doesn't come on at all anymore. just some few things i've messed around with over the years, undercharging the system just alittle bit will make the air blow extremely cold, which is how i run mine, the only bad part about this is that after driving on the highway for about 3hours or so, the whole condensor will freeze up, so before going on a road trip, actually charge it correctly, but it wont blow as cold. ---also it depends what kind of compressor you have! and how the computer/car controls the compressor, some are always constantly on like Honda, and i know 90's Subaru's cycle on and off, 80's Subaru's also cycle if you have the factory installed compressor, dealership's installed compressors on 80's Subaru's don't cycle, well mine didn't.

that is one of the most depressing pictures i've seen all week...

i still get R-12 from Mexico whenever i go visit family overthere to have extra in my garage, something about it makes an old compressor cool like it's on steroids, i heard ammonia cools better than R-12 and i could easily aquire that overthere, but im not risking a leak and dying over that stuff, anyways im sticking with R-12. my 2004 Oddysey that has R134a takes so long to cool to increase it's terrible 22mpg highway and like 13mpg city, stupid tree huggers.

if your compressor is located in the center (between the power steering pump and alternator) then a part number does exist for that compressor, and it is available to order from autozone for a costly $280, if the compressor is located on the outside closest to the drivers side, then your best luck is finding a generic compressor that has those bunny ear holes in every corner. but that's not the difficult part of all this, once you locate your compressor of your desire, just hope that the fittings/adaptors will be the same as the ones you have or you'll be going to alot of little A/C shops looking for that antique fitting. part number: 57453 (this one is only for the compressor that's located in the center between the powersteering pump and alternator)

i completely agree, but got a few things to say, i've never had solder break apart on me before, or noticed it i suppose, perhaps it's the mixture of solder im using? it's happened to me before where solder actually melts since so much current was moving past it, but that was a weak connection with very little solder on it. i would crimp the giant 2 gauge wire but i don't have crimpers that big, plus doing a hybrid of both worlds i think is best, a soldered connection for as little resistance as possible through the circuit, but incase of melting which takes ALOT of amps, smashing the crimp with a hammer/flathead and hammer would guarantee that the wire never comes out incase of melting.

i can't stand electric soldering irons, they irritate me so much and i just throw the damn thing against the wall and when it fell on the floor, it burned a hole in the carpet (true story) i bought a butane soldering gun, they're $27 at Lowes, compared to the $20 for the crappy electric soldering gun leaving you to wait for 20minutes just to loose all the heat in 5 seconds of touching a wire, only thing is it needs a refill of butane about every 15min of use, but i've had the same little $4 bottle of Butane refill for a year now, it's running low now but still refilling. i've tried everything, and this is the only soldering gun that has never let me down, gets up to temperature in about 10seconds, and the pilot spark is still going. it also has a cool feature to shrink wrap with that shield it comes with. here it is. https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Lead-Free-Soldering-Kit/1000170991

this is currently my biggest crimping tool i have, anything bigger than this, and i just go the homemade copper tubing way.

isn't Lead softer than copper? yet they were using it as terminals for decades? good question. also if you're not that good with the torch, just melt some solder with a soldering gun in the homemade ring terminal while the wire is already in the hole, probably not as good to fuse with the copper iself though. i just use a Walmart torch, it's $5 for 2 propane cans, and you'll need the tip also to ignite the propane which is i think around $12. i was just tired of buying big ring terminals for like $4 a piece.

i use copper lines from airconditioning to make my own crimps and ring terminals when giant wires are involved since i have a spool laying around in my garage. i cut about 2 inches of tubing off, flatten half of it down, drill a hole, there's your ring terminal if needed, the other side where the wire is gonna go i fill it with solder, then heat it with a torch until the solder is liquid, then i put the giant wire in there and let the solder cool, sometimes i smash it some more but that's not really needed.

all of mine do too, even though there's no rust at all anywhere on the body, think it has to do with battery acid, or water sitting underneath the battery.

first time i ever removed it i used a long breakerbar and bumped the starter, other times i would use a breaker bar and a nice slam with a sledge hammer, it's not too difficult, try standing on a longer breaker bar with an old pipe for more leverage and bounce on it a few times..

there you go

the coolant system is actually pressurized since i added a coolant reservoir to the radiator, but having the radiator cap doesn't really make a change besides loosing coolant while going down the road. here's the thing, the vehicle has trouble picking up temperature when its 30degrees outside and never goes higher than a quarter of the temp. in 105 degree weather, my top speed is around 65mph before the needle goes higher than halfway. in 90 degree weather, i can cruise down the highway going around 75mph. im going to install an actual temperature gauge from the autoparts store and see what it reads, perhaps im just being paranoid about the inaccurate 40 year old temperature needle...

any other suggestions besides the deletion of the mechanical fan and instead having a pair of EA82 Electric Fan's already on there, timing is as much as i can go in the retard way (around 7 degrees) and has a 160F degree thermostat? can't go higher than 65mph for more than a few minutes before that needle begins to climb, but then again the Rev's are at 4,000rpm at that point, im already on 155/90 R13 to decrease Engine RPM, which helped by increasing my speed from 58mph to 65mph... perhaps the waterpump is working too well and not letting the coolant have enough time to cool down when going through the radiator? again, any radiator suggestions?

hmm... didn't know the gasket was still available new, would have been useful on my 79 Wagon i just sold since it made this strange goo on the very top of the filler neck, guess water humidity and oil were mixing there slowly, but that wasn't the reason i sold it, it was the overwhelming rust.

has anyone replaced the radiator on a EA71 with a better performing one that somewhat fits with 2 electric fans on it already from some other brand vehicle? height, width, thickness and size of input/output fits?

what GD said, i have a few first gens and 1 second gen, they are not a daily driver nor possible to become one for more than a few months without something breaking on it and parked for a few months while locating a replacement part. as much as i would love to daily one, its not possible, so they only get to see the roads on saturdays and sometimes sundays

that is one cool SVX there! awesome that you were able to reunite with a similar one again, rare to see one today, only ever seen 2 in my life in the last 8years, and both were at the junkyards, so technically i've never seen a good running one ever. keep her going!

thats worth just putting up on a display shelf and never using, plus im not sure if i would ever use a 40 year old filter, not sure on that one, don't really come across 40 year old filters on a daily basis... that's really cool though! thanks for posting it up! would love to see other relic's of the 70's whenever you get a chance!

i use this on my Subaru's that don't have a voltage needle since they're usually base models that don't have them.. they range from $5-$15, depending how long you would like to wait for your shipment. there's different syles and different colors of them.

hey there's a true statement!

Abandoned in 1993, Rescued in 2017, Work still in progress as of 6/14/18, but has been road worthy since 2/1/18 (will update with 1 more picture in a few weeks)

From Beginning to End. 1979 GL. Abandoned in 2001, Rescued in 2015, Sold in 2018.

the problem with those Hitachi Carbs is that they are made to work with the emission crap on it, as much as im an original freak at keeping a vehicle as original as possible, unfortunately after many, many months of tinkering with my Hitachi, i never could get it to work smoothly for more than 40minutes. i would go to walmart, and have to tune it again before leaving, i would leave work and time to tune it again, i would bottom out on the idle mixture at times just to get it to somewhat run right. all the calibrations shifted horribly on mine from day to day. the hardest thing about the whole conversion will be removing all the emission stuff, but after hours of doing the conversion on mine, first crank, and it started right up, with a growling sound too like the old carb was stealing so much power from it. $300 dollars is alittle harsh but its actually worth it at the end, i was a non believer at first, but i don't regret one bit of all the work i did to it.