Subasaurus

just the cranks with the U clip and plastic washer.

well then, ill go with the metal window cranks instead. need both sides.

im interested in the original ignition switch with the key that corresponds to it.

phase 2 EA71 started around mid 1977. my starter is on the 12 o'clock position and its a phase 2 EA71, i think its the solenoid/relay of the starter is the way to tell if its a phase one or phase two, can't remember fully now how to distinguish them. and as far as i know, EA71's from the year 1977-1979 got the round air cleaner, the 1980 and 1981 and i think even the EA81 got the oval air cleaner that said Subaru across it. thats good that you barely have any emission stuff, you probably just have those EGR tubes, the EGR valve and a Charcoal canister on the passenger shock tower. ports are the intake manifold vacuum ports, but you probably have wayy less ports than i do since you don't have much emission stuff on it, you got it pretty easy. not sure about reed valve and silencer and such, its the circular piece of metal located on the back middle of the manifold, right behind the carburetor.

forget the project, i hope the vehicle is still around atleast, 13years later from the post.

what year brat do you have? alot of things changed from 1979 to 1980 emision wise. The 80 had the second canister of sorts on the drivers side, thats easy to remove and plug, infact i added a coolant reservoir in the same location since the first gen never came with one which is suicidal down here in south texas. im pretty sure the original hitachi carb is made to run correctly with the emission stuff, i didn't bother reusing the carb for this reason. i used to be a stock freak, and never doing a modification, and if i did i would hide it really well, after a few years of doing that and then it all shatters away by having someone hitting my vehicle and all that for nothing, don't care much anymore, as long as the body is left alone, im fine. i removed the solenoids, there should be two on the passenger side of the block, and some weird vacuum damper controller for them, as far as i could tell, there is no vacuum controller for the vacuum advance that gets regulated, and if there was and i missed it since there was so much nonsense on it, didn't affect anything, vacuum hose is attached directly to the manifold. theres 2 small ports on the passenger side and 3 small ones and 2 large ones i think on the drivers side, half of them are plugged because i have no need for that many vacuum ports. the 2 passenger ones are being used for inside of the cab for something im still not sure about, the other goes to the distributor, on the drivers side you got the brake booster and 1 small vacuum is being used for something i don't remember now that also goes into the cab on the passenger side, and the other 2 small ones are plugged, plus the large one too. might be 2 large ones plugged actually, can't remember now. the egr is optional, i didn't notice any difference, but since i was going all out and simplifying the engine as much as possible so that when you look at a wire or hose, you immediately know what it is. i cut up a piece of a front of a bumper on an EA82 and used the gasket as a template when cutting the metal, then used the same gasket to seal it up. theres a cylinder looking thing inline with the emission tubes that go to the sparkplugs, on the drivers side behind the manifold, thats suppose to avoid dieseling, but i didn't expect any of this to even still be working after 40years, pulled it, didn't have a choice anyways since it was inline with the tubes that i was pulling. you have 6 ports to plug on the EGR recirculating nonsense, you got one right next to every spark plug, and 2 more, one on the bottom rear of the passenger side of the engine block itself and that one attaches to the manifold on the rear passenger side as well next to the thermostat. i had to use a tap because the hole was slightly too small for plumbing caps that they sell at home depot, don't remember the size off the top of my head, 18thread, it was just the threads that were too large, i think it has to do with plumbing and bolt sizes being different and measuring outer diameter and inner diameter. Merica the valve breather hoses or whatever they are called, you have 2 options, one is to just buy new hose and run them behind a shock tower with a pod filter, or you can make a hole for it on the bottom of the air filter like i did, buy a fitting with a plastic nut with a 90 on it, then buy a T for it, then you can attach the valve hoses to it, just expect to see some oil on the bottom of the pan of the filter. i know theres other things im missing, but feel free to ask me, you can use the original throttle bracket but i recommend buying a new throttle cable from an EA81, they give you more length of cable and less of the tube that the cable runs through, unless you make your own cable. it took me all friday afternoon and all day from morning to night on saturday to finish all this including installing the carburetor and tuning it, but this was with runs to the autoparts store, if you have absolutely everything you need (which is unrealistic and impossible) expect 6-10hours of nonstop on this, and a back that hurts once you're done. also get a manual choke with it, as long as you understand a lawnmower, you can understand a choke on a vehicle, plus if you're having tuning issues you can adjust the choke to get you home, too lean and you have to close the choke alittle when the engine cools down after getting off of the highway and such, so much more freedom. also i think the original location to non U.S. vehicles for the manual choke was on the left side of the steering wheel where that circle blank is with a black plastic cover on it, i've had 2 first gen's that were top of the line and this hole/cover has never had anything on it, so thats probably what it was for, just that it was never an option here in the United States because people would say its too confusing and call it a bad lemon immediately, infact some international markets got the manual choke as far out as the EA82 because thats what that country prefers. there is no Step by Step on this, every year changes slightly because of the tree huggers and california, use your best knowledge and expect to break a bolt and drill it out and such, especially those 3 manifold bolts to the heads of the block. also, timing will change when all the emissions stuff is removed and plugged, my vehicle went from 9.5 degrees to 12 degrees, runs like crap at the original 9.5 degree location it was originally at, but then again it could be because of the new carburetor also, or both.

just sent you a PM, thanks.

there it is!! hey thanks pooparu! pretty cool to see some of the stripes i've been wondering about the color of, now it makes alot of sense why one side was different shades than the other, thought it was the sun shining on one side more than the other. although being OCD it bothers me that one side was different colors than the other, but thats how they came i suppose.

know anywhere where to get the multicolored first gen brat decals? mine has the yellow, orange, purple, red and maybe other colors? not sure, 40 years later the decals has seen better days, only reason i know those colors was because when replacing the mirrors from a 1993 Lincoln Towncar onto the brat, the colors were still vivid there. also, has anyone else notice that the Passenger side is white lettering on a black background and the Drivers side is black lettering on a white background?

saw that double row radiator at a junkyard about 4 years ago, didn't think much of it till i found out about 3 years ago that they are pretty rare since only turbos got them, now im kicking myself for not getting it at the moment. haven't seen another since.

i've actually had this discussion with my friends and have a few questions myself, so if a country sent an EMP bomb to a certain part of the U.S. obviously a points type distributor would keep the car running around while everyone else tries to shoot you for the car like in the movie War of the Worlds, and if you have the original 70's radio in it, that'll probably keep working too since the copper and such are overly done, although don't know if the old clarion radios from the 70's have vacuum tubes or microprocessors, i doubt it has any chips. and no, not potato chips. in 77? 78? somewhere in there the ignition control module came out, being that its in 1/4 inch metal encased and the pick up coil is just a magnet with 2 wires comming out of it (no electronics there) then it would be perfectly fine right? i've also read somewhere that you should keep an ignition coil in a metal safe, but an ignition coil is just copper windings with some liquid inside of it, plus its encased in pretty thick metal so thats got me confused there. EMP would burn up tiny wires only right? like in a microprocessor? so it would affect our older vehicles, but probably not even noticeable since the copper was way thicker back in the day and they weren't worried about weight reduction to the last ounce. i still got the original 40 year old ignition coil working on mine, are the new ones made of thinner wires? and plus like GD said, you got the thick metal of the vehicle itself unlike today's cars. any opinions?

and its a dual range too, not bad! thats awesome. you beat me by $60 from when i bought a 1979 GL for $60 3 years ago. whats the story behind the car and how you got it?

even idling, the engine eventually picks up to the proper engine temperature, remove the thermostat and run to the auto parts store if you must, watch that needle, you don't got much to play with.

thats better but 8k tops i would say for a pristine second gen brat like that.

My life "should" work.

404 not found 404+5=409 All Purpose Cleaner.

nope, not my style, keep the vehicle stock, with the original radio and original seats, then ill be a buyer, what annoys me on these really really nice offroaders is that they keep it sparkly clean, defeats the purpose entirely, its like putting 36" rims with almost no rubber on the wheels on an F-350. another decoration vehicle.

that would be me lol, and many other parts, i texted you them, and emailed them to you too so you could print the list out.

this right here all the way after a few days trying to figure out why my webber kept sticking, i overtightened the bolt, i did a webber conversion a few days ago and ditched the hitachi carburetor, plus about 18 pounds of emission stuff, poor car was suffering with all that stuff on her, 6 plugs on the engine block from EGR tubes, custom made plate for the EGR valve and a whole bunch of nonsense, theres so much more power. plus an extra return spring on the throttle so that it returns all the way back down everytime.

-im interested in the 3 subaru badges on the vehicle, the 2 side fender ones and the rear one. -im interested in both front clear corner lights also. shipping to 78245 for quote, PM me if needed, thanks! p.s- to remove the fragile 37 year old plastic badges without breaking it, don't use a screw driver, use fishing wire.

i do have a pair of first gen brat tail lights to ship to you for free dave so you can make copies of it, they are the old ones from my brat, passenger has a small crack and the drivers side is missing almost all of the amber part of the turn signal, but perhaps flipping the amber on the other side you could make it work. i do not have trim cups for a first gen, well i do but theres only about 10% of the cup remaining around the screw that holds it, its pretty much non existant i do have both corner lights from a second gen, and yes the whole corner light is clear/transparent since the turn signal on this vehicle was located on the bumper, drivers side has a hole in it though, but i think you can still make it work by the sounds of it, but i would want the original corner lights back, but i don't need the brat tail lights back. as for the corner lights on a first gen, my good pair went on my 79 wagon that i sold last month, i am now stuck with a pair of broken ones on my brat with quite a bit missing.

all the ones i've had also turned into dust like carfreak mentioned, ill be glad to place an order, -a pair of 2 interior door handle trim cups for an EA71 -a pair of front corner lights for an EA71, they don't have to be the same transparency as the originals, but as long as theres a pair, and they both look like they have the same wear to each other, no one will ever know. -and a pair of front corner lights for an EA81

3D printing plastics can't be transparent right? or can it? because i just paid $350 for a pair of 78-81 brat tail lights New old stock still in the box from 1982 from the other side of the world in Israel. agree with idosubaru, make a bunch, about 50+ pieces and slowly sell them. seems that the most needed pieces right now are brat tail lights for first and second gen, and front corner lights for first and second gen. there may be a few old Subaru's still out there, but the few that are still out there are in desperate need of old parts including myself, hours and hours of surfing the web searching for the little parts there are remaining. even 3rd gen there seems to be a lack of corner lights, i had 7 good pairs of corner lights and a few driver sides, im all out of stock on them in less than a month.

incorrect key with the box, thats the valet key, original yes, but does not belong in that box. cool find though, didn't think these boxes were still out there, thats why i've hanged on to mine. don't know how rare they are, i mean every subaru got them but im sure mostly all of them got lost or trashed.

its for when you bought your vehicle new from the dealership, thats the box that they provided it for you to deliver your awesome keys to your awesome new vehicle. got 2 of them, one is in poor shape and super sticky with the foam inside missing, and the second is in decent shape. they stopped providing them with your new vehicle sometime in 1988, although a few 1989 got them if the dealership still had them in stock.