Subasaurus

too many pictures to post, i probably have the part you need... i still have boxes in the garage full of EA-82 stuff. -1991 Loyale died because of a Head Being cracked so i used the engine for parts on another one in the past, i did drive it home, smoking, but it did still drive. -1994 Loyale was a re attempt of me bringing back to life my wrecked vehicle.. never happened. -1989 GL has electrical issues, No Spark, never figured it out, eventually gave up. 1991 Loyale 1994 Loyale 1989 GL 1991 Loyale 1994 Loyale 1989 GL 1991 Loyale 1994 Loyale 1989 GL 1991 Loyale 1994 Loyale 1989 GL

okay so im pulling out of 3rd gen subarus all together, after a lady wrecked my 1990 Loyale Wagon in October of 2015 that i had put who knows how many hours and was so perfect, i would get under the car and actually scrub underneath the car and such, i've never been interested again in restoring another 3rd gen. i currently have 3 Wagons in my backyard that are parts cars, a 1989 GL, 1991 Loyale and a 1994 Loyale. The 1994 does run but bogs down around 30mph, could be as simple as a fuel filter, don't know, never bothered. call it $250 on that one since the scrap yard is gonna give me $225 if someone wants the whole vehicle before its sacrificed as parts, then eventually scrapped. i did have a 4th wagon but scrapped that one a year ago, but threw a bunch of parts from it in one of the other wagons, so i have 3+ EA82 parts cars that are fairly complete as parts cars. before i junk/scrap them to a local yard here, does anybody need parts on these things or are they still common in junkyards up north? they are all 4WD, one is auto 4WD and the other 2 are manual 5Speed 4WD. -- if you're curious as to what i have moved on to, im currently looking for any Model Studebaker or Austin Mini, although im still interested in Subaru's, but only pre-1979 or 1981 for the brat since i HATE electronics and 100 wires going through a harness.

could be the sensor in the distributor, under the metal plate attached by 2 phillip screws is a metal disk with holes all around and a sensor attached to it, check to see if that sensor is fully plugged in, which the plug is located about 5 inches down the wire away from the distributor, white 4 wire plug if i remember correctly, try cleaning it. not to let your hopes down or anything but this exact reason is why i gave up on my 1989 GL-10. no spark issue so i went even further and messed with the wires so much that returning things where they belonged was impossible, looked for wiring diagrams and apparently 1989 and 1990 models are a mess with half year stuff and such, just becareful on what you re-wire. Best of Luck!

a brat in hawaii? now thats an oddball, wonder if they even sold them there or someone brought the brat there from the states in a ferry.

awesome and clean XT! or Vortex, but ill call it an XT for today, love the seats, favorite thing about them. i don't think i've ever seen a brat with the 4WD emblem on the hood, perhaps they've all fallen off, now i need to search for one... good meaty tires on it though, looks good, thanks for the awesome pictures!!

so I did the sea foam on the IAC and to no change, unsuprisingly, screws are still tight and fine. whats got me wondering now is i know an 89 and 90 GL/Loyale don't do the idling issue while coasting as i've owned both of those and still do, but my 1994 Loyale does the same idling "coasting" issue as my Impreza, which is now a parts vehicle so the only vehicle remaining that has the idling "issue" is the impreza. Manufacturing date on the 89 GL is 06/89 while the 90 Loyale is 07/89 any thoughts? im wondering if Subaru sometime in the early 90's implemented it on the ECU on all vehicles and future cars up to a certain year?

oh wow, you're in adkins? that is really cool. im only like 15-20minutes from you, talk about a rare occurance. would love to come help you get the car back on the road, and see anything 1st gen, 2nd gen, or 3rd gen on these roads as i have yet to see any of the above the last 6 years of driving around this city, besides me. let me know! i might have some parts for your vehicle too. -wait a second, theres too many coincidences going on right now, you're not talking about my vehicle i have for sale right? and wanting to sacrifice a good condition 1st gen to keep a 2nd gen on the road?

thats insane, a quart of oil every 900miles, almost competing with the jeep wrangler there. my 1989 Subaru GL leaked about a quart of oil every 1,500miles, i kept putting it for tomorrow and it started costing quite a bit of money, i would buy Two 5qt jugs of oil every 5,000 miles to compensate for the leak. if you're willing to throw away 30 bucks every oil change which is around every month and a half for me, you should be fine, but you're burning the oil while i was just leaking it out the oil pump, which is now fixed. wonder if its excessive emission blowby, or the rings are literally seeping oil into the combustion chamber, either way on the long run the burned oil is going through the catalytic converter, and thats usually not good. 1,200 dollars is a bit excessive, but then again thats the dealership for you, and it sucks that they now have a note inthere saying that it has a leak, because if you fix it on your own they will come up with the excuse that you have voided your warranty for working on your own car and deny replacing the engine for you. i would love to own a new car but all this recall scam stuff is what has stopped me form getting one, so back to the past im stuck with. your situation is quite tricky though, but if YOU KNOW that the car IS ACTUALLY loosing oil and its not loosing it through the left cam carrier, 1,200 dollars doesn't sound bad for a new replaced engine, but theres always a risk, hopefully it favors you, but in dealership hands who knows.

Scott in Bellingham might be able to help you, hes the only one that i know that makes lift kits, although im sure he can make you a drop kit of sorts, i don't know much about the XT and the suspension layout as i've never seen one in person, good luck, hope this helps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/user/6264-scott-in-bellingham/ http://www.sjrlift.com/

i've put some down the intake with the plastic intake removed but never poured it directly down the 1" rubber tube that goes to the IAC, ill try that this afternoon and let you know what happens, ill also double check if the 4 screws are tight on it.

I agree about the neutral switch, but my bad on my end, it also does it with the clutch pedal depressed or neutral with the clutch pedal released. Although never knew there was a neutral switch on this transmission! So thanks for that info Just something that bugs me seeing the revs just stay up like that only at highway speeds while the rest of my carburetor vehicles stay where they’re suppose to like a normal car should, it’s not 3,000rpm extreme but it’s a 1,500rpm noticeable

1993 Impreza FWD been wondering for about 6 years now, whenever im going over 45mph, say when im getting off of the highway i go into neutral (manual transmission) the idle stays above 1,200-1500rpm. it only finally drops back down to 750rpm where its suppose to be when im decelerating past the 45mph mark. its not a gradual decrease of rpm's with the speed im going, it just drops back where its suppose to be when im decelerating and it passes 45mph (slowing down/coming to a stop) it's never affected anything but just something im curious about. is it in the computer itself so its easier for me to release the clutch and continue on driving if i need to? turning the engine off and on makes the RPM's go back to 750 even though im going 70mph but once i rev it alittle, it then stays above 1200-1500 revolutions, its quite funny, almost like a One Way Wall, and the "problem" hasn't gotten worse or better if it's even a problem the last 6 years of owning the car. just something i've wondered, thanks!

only 1500 of them in the states? wtf so there was one at the junkyard here about 4 years ago, and theres one currently there right now with that higher roof line.. just went to the junkyard about a week ago. so why exactly do they have the higher roof line? besides the extra inch of room you get inside, was it an option on all models? or only the top of the line and selecting that option? certain years only available for?

Seems that the original bulbs last for decades while replaced ones last for about 2 years and LED ones range from 2months-10years, just some planned obsolescence going on, nothing to see, let’s just keep living our disposable lives, it’s not like there’s a 100+ year old light bulb still on at a fire station with a 24hour live webcam pointed at it.

Actually they just turned 40years old, halogen bulbs wern’t common in U.S vehicles till like around 1981, before then they were just under vacuum and yellow as hell.they say Koito on all 4 of them, you can find them online for sale but they’re asking a ridiculous 60-80dollars a piece for crappy dim yellow original 70’s sealed beam headlights. so that’s why i’ve been wanting to conserve these since all 4 are still working, and looking around for LED’s.

although could i ask what bulbs you went with? i've been wanting to convert mine to led but theres so many out there today, i lost track of led brands in 2015, and autozone led bulbs are overpriced, but im just overwhelmed with all the different options when you go online that im not sure which ones are the bad/cheap ones, which ones are the good ones, and which ones are overpriced, especially since led prices have dropped so much recently, plus which ones have the correct resistance since i still have an analog flasher that would just stick on and never flash if i just slapped led's in there. -did you also convert the sealed headlights to led? im still running on filament bulbs from the 70's and boy are they dim.

mine diesels for about 8 seconds after i turn the engine off, but it seems to only happen on really hot days in the summertime, but i think its probably because its alittle rich on fuel. led light bulb fixing dieseling sure sounds strange though, i have no comments on that outcome, perhaps someone here knows a strange electronic anomaly connection with it?

its either too loose or the V belt has literally run out of tread and is now slipping, --if you're trying to get by for a few more days, try putting some belt dressing on it..

glad to know someone near me has a 70's Subaru. my vehicle also had a few strange things going on, - the 12v positive on the electric fan would switch to negative when it had a load (the fan) but the wires woudn't short or blow any fuse when you would touch the 2 wires together, just capped it and ran new wires like most of the electrical on the vehicle, looked like original wiring too so don't know what was happening there. - same goes for the ignition coil, fuel pump. vehicle has 3 new relays, or should i say the only relays since everything electrical was acting so strange. - when i was driving down the road the headlights would get brighter then dim down every 10 seconds, ran a new ground to the chassis and block and that fixed it. - still haven't fixed the issue with the tachometer though, colder days it likes to read double to triple the RPM's, then read correctly after warming up whatever the tach needs warming up, then after about 45 minutes later i guess what warmed up is overheating now? because the tach then shoots all the way to 6,000 and stays there for the rest of the day, its kind of hilarious. and for some reason the fuel and temp are also connected to whatever is going wrong because those read only when the vehicle feels like it. - Different distributor since the computer thats attached to the coil that reads the magnetic pick up in the distributor was shot and would only work for a few minutes, ended up switching to a points type distributor from a 75 Subaru, works great, just gotta service the points every 5,000-7,000miles. pretty much everything electrical was going wrong with the vehicle unless i ran a completely new circuit, makes you wonder what will happen to all these newer cars 30 years from now. -- Forgot to mention! the tension tabs that hold the fuses are usually pretty weak by now after all these years, try giving them some tension, to all of them. loose fuses will cause some weird stuff to happen, including fuses blowing since theres more resistance present in the circuit, even though theres nothing wrong with that circuit besides the fact that the fuse is barely making contact with all the corrosion and such, something a meter will read as good continuity, but under load is a different story. best of luck!

interesting, so if Goliath didn't go under in 1961, we would have the 1985 Goliath Leone or if they went AWD then a 2005 Goliath Impreza WRX STI. that would perhaps explain Subaru's birth of the boxer engine in 1966 on the 1000. few years after the defunct of the Goliath company, smart Subaru there... never knew a thing about the Goliath company, infact never heard of them, cool stuff! although that rust looks a bit harsh, keep us updated!

after doing alittle research, there is a few gas stations here that have non-ethanol gas available, but its some weird off brand gas stations in some shady places, including a phillip 66, but we don't have on the fly availability of ethanol or non-ethanol at the same pump unfortunately. and yeah gas thats been sitting for a few years turns into some weird strange tar stuff. >oops was looking at some old stuff from 2011, as of 2017 there is no longer ethanol free gas stations anymore in or around my city, enjoy that free ethanol gas you got there buddy!

thanks GD! that concludes the thread i suppose

brat is awesome! love it, keep us posted, did it come with the jumpseats too? btw you aren't the youngest here (me 22) and im sure theres others.

perhaps different laws in different states with the ethanol percentages in fuel?

who sells non-ethanol gas though? everywhere where i live it says the fuel dispensed from this pump may contain up to 10 percent ethanol... the shell, the Valero, the HEB-Gas, and the Chevron.