Subasaurus

perhaps a drill?

no issues now, just a concern i had since these engines will run forever and since they are bullet proof, just been wondering if microscopically the engine is taking damage from unleaded. ofcourse today's gasoline are killing ALL CLASSIC CARS out there with the sticky residue (ethanol i think?) they are leaving in vehicles not being able to handle today's mixtures of fuels unlike modern cars today for emission purposes, pretty depressing...

probably so, i've just been putting 87 in my vehicle with the timing at 12 degrees, but then again i feel like the flywheels on these things aren't spot on either, my EA-71 Brat likes to be between 9-10 degrees, its just more so an approximation i would say. anything higher than 12 degrees though will cause me to overheat on the wagon, so thats probably the sweet spot on my vehicle, been like that for the last 2 years...

Hey thanks for the reply and information! So basically the EA-71 is the first engine to be able to handle unleaded fuel, and can handle both types of fuel, but the benefits are so minimal between them that it’s not worth it. So octane rating wise, where should that stand at? Does the engine even care?

so i haven't really been able to find much on what fuel an EA-71 likes to run on best, seems that a RON of 100 leaded fuel was the default for the EA-71 back in the 70's? seems that the closest we can get to today is an octane rating of 93 at a typical gas station and some fake lead additive for our vehicles at the autoparts store, does the engine really need the additive? what is in it anyways because i doubt its actually lead with all these regulations today. i think i recall reading in the original water damaged owners manual in my vehicle that it prefers an octane of 90 or higher? being a NON-CATALYTIC vehicle as it says on the door tag means it would prefer Leaded Gas, right? and that the engine was designed for Leaded fuel, hence the name EA-71 for 1971 designed engine. any opinions? not sure on my facts.

i wanna see guess ill just have to imagine it then...

if it is truly illegal, that would be the most ridiculous law ever.

if they were illegal, then i should have been stopped 5 years ago lol, plus it can be seen as daytime running lamps as well, im not worried if they are illegal.

then again, no one really changes oil viscosity unless they have an issue with their vehicle having oil dissapear on them, goes both ways. but yes, changing to a higher zinc level oil on a newer car would NOT cause catalytic converter damage if everything is working well. plus once a vehicle is 20 years old and burning oil, the last thing you care about is the catalytic converter anyways, unless you live in california. there are a few vehicles out there that do burn a bunch of oil when they are only 2 years old though, for example i witnessed 2013-2015 jeep wranglers mising 2 quarts of oil at only 1,000 miles in on their oil change, fiats missing 1.5 quarts at 5,000 miles in NEW, chrysler 300's and PT Cruisers.... don't even get me started on those, and many more. most were 0w-20 burning all this oil, the one that did the best while i worked at an oil and lube shop was Honda burning around 1/4 of a quart at 7,000miles in, but this is getting off topic.. >my brain is just used to talking about older vehicles than newer ones, then again what vehicle are we even talking about here anyways?? all we know is that its a Subaru and its one of these according to his profile EA82, EJ22, EJ251, EJ255, EJ257, EZ30, EZ33. so who knows lol

remove a spark plug and see if the spark is extremely weak when cranking, mine would stay running for about 10-15 seconds and then die, let the vehicle "cool down" even though nothing warmed up for a few minutes and it would restart and run for a few seconds, then die again, turned out to be the distributor, the square sensor that reads the disk spinning around, also known as an early crank sensor of sorts. hope this helps.

i think it has to do with what the general people of the area are familiar with. in my city, you'll be lucky to see 2 of any Subaru driving around in a single day, new or old and by old i mean late 90's, and half of those have license plates from Oregon. people overhere just have not accepted Subaru, and i think it has to do with being so close to the border to Mexico, as my dad used to own a Car Lot on the border back in the 80's and 90's he mentioned that everyone disliked Subarus since the engine was strange and no one knew how to work on them, he had 2 early 80's Subarus for sale for 2 years and never sold, ended up trading one for a boat, and the other for a school bus. Therefore old Subarus are extremely hard to find downhere, but when they do show up, they are so extremely cheap its unrealistic since no one wants to buy them, and ofcourse then theres me taking advantage of every single one i ever see up for sale or hiding in someones backyard since there are non in Junkyards of any kind. heres a quick history of what i've been able to purchase mine for in my city in the last 5 years- $60 for my 1979 GL Wagon 4WD manual $900 for my 1980 GL Brat 4WD manual $1,200 for my 1983 GL Hatch FWD auto $350 for my 1989 GL-10 Wagon 4WD manual $250 for my 1990 Loyale Wagon 4WD manual $180 for my 1991 Loyale Wagon 4WD auto $200 for my 1993 Impreza FWD manual. --all somewhat ran when purchased except for the 1979-- >parts cars that never ran- 1991 Loyale for $200 4WD manual 1993 Loyale for $250 FWD auto seems that the sweet spot of "desired" Subarus right now is somewhere between 1980-1985.

Probably passenger rear spline bearing going out, you’re not the only one experiencing that, also in my own opinion 3,000 seems kind of on the higher end side? But then again California is always overpriced on everything.

zinc is good for engines as it avoids corrosion and acts as a lubricant agent, but too much of it (like found in Rotella thats meant for diesels) is not a good thing, anything above 800ppm of zinc and you are looking at catalytic converter damage on newer vehicles, anything higher than 1600ppm and it begins to clump, only time i ever saw that Rotella would be needed for was on my friends 1994 3000GT plus the Catalytic converter was removed, burned every type of oil due to the extreme heat and pressure, Rotella stopped all that and worked quite well on it. ---(a Turbo model might fit that application too like carfreak85 mentioned) also on the back of the oil bottles theres a seal that has 2 letters on it that say something like API SN and such, that tells you alot about whats in the oil itself. im sure theres a chart somewhere online that you can read about it. quick 2 minute search > http://www.pqiamerica.com/Labels.htm

do they even know what harbor freight is? lmao.

EA71 are made of metal BUT suprisingly, half of the cranks are broken on my EA71 vehicles, i guess a bad mixture of metals? EA81 is plastic outside but not sure if theres metal inside of it as i've never had one break on me before or seen one broken, same goes for the EA82. i could check for you this afternoon if all the window cranks splines from all 3 generations are the same if you need that information? but in my own opinion, metal cranks are cool but seem to be weaker than the plastic ones for whatever reason... just in my experience.

i had no idea this had been going on for some time, thanks for clearing that up.

like forester2002s said- if it works, just keep doing whatever it is that works well for that situation, as for > could not agree more with this, just hope this doesn't cause comment suppression from Gloyale and GD on other future threads if one replied to a thread before the other.

there is no such thing as a bolt in seat for such early Subarus besides the OEM ones, although if there is one or one with some modifications to the mount that is more comfortable and gives more room in the cab, im interested in knowing also. My legs barely fit with the seat all the way back, right knee hits the volume knob on my radio, annoying... >if i recall correctly from a thread years ago, a saturn vehicle of some model does mount on 3 corners with a modification to one corner, but removes room in the cab which is the opposite of what were trying to accomplish here, it was just for people that needed a seat that was completely demolished and useless.

probably the tube thats next to the radiator cap that leads to nowhere that is meant to leak out since water expands when the engine is hot if the vehicle is overfilled with antifreeze when cold, i attached a reservoir from an EA82 where the horns are since the vehicle never came with a reservoir and ran a rubber tube to the side of that radiator cap tube, and i moved the horns to the firewall.

resistor pack, it is located on the right side of the front middle console, above the radio, 2 screws holding it, one is easy, the top one not so much, then just a plug to disconnect, where to get one not sure, but as long as you know alittle soldering skills, you can just mount one from another car, 1 resistor at a time, use a meter to determine which one is low, med, high and such.

3 reasons why i would ever retire one of my Subarus 1. Rust. 2. Some idiot hits my Subaru and demolishes the vehicle past the point of repair (not insurance totaling it) 2 different things. 3. Can't find a replacement engine or transmission in a 6month search locally. i currently have a 1993 impreza with 380,000miles waiting for a new transmission (doing too many burnouts did it) although i can find a transmission really easy at a junkyard right now for around $300, i'd rather spend it on a parts car as i do not have one for it yet around me for around the same price as i need a new interior and transmission for it, that would be an exception for me.

--plus i also bought a $60 dollar 1979GL Wagon back in 2015, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155288-rescued-1979-subaru-wagon-now-i-need-help/page-2 doesn't mean im gonna keep all parts and maintenance below 60dollars for the rest of its life (that would get interesting really quick) im probably around $1,300 on parts on it? not to mention all my free labor time i have in it including making parts for the dang thing since anything for it is non existant.

Agree, either you pay the car around 100 bucks a month on parts and maintenance, sometimes more, sometimes no cost for that month (once the initial cost of getting it on the road is done ofcourse) and such or 400+ a month to someones pocket laughing at you at why you just bought an overpriced plastic disposable new car that will just disintegrate and fall apart in 8 years, not to mention as the days, mileage and such go by, it depreciates. you got yourself a decent well built vehicle, i personally love the EA82, just carry a spare set of timing belts with you in the hatch compartment with some basic tools, you'll need them when it decides to shoot one out in the middle of nowhere

thanks!!! i will definitely try it soon then!

not sure what the best way was but i used a combination of goo gone and evaporator cleaner for aluminum coils on A/C units, and ofcourse a razor blade and about 2 boring hours later got both stickers off, it ain't perfect in any means, take a look at the rear bumper of the car on the updated picture, you can still see the rectangles and underneath the stickers is shinier better condition chrome. my dad used to own a car lot in the 70's and 80's and told me to use aluminum foil and coke to shine up the bumpers and make it look even but haven't tried it yet, he said it worked pretty well but that was the old coke formula being used... but then again doesn't really bother me much either as it just make it more unique with every dent, scratch, paint faiding away and such.