Subasaurus

not necessarily, in the 80's subaru had about a 5-6month delay time on year models so say your vehicle says 6/83 or 7/83 on the door tag, who knows, only the title could tell you, but if its before 6/83 its probably a 1983 and if its after 7/83 its probably a 1984.

easiest way of knowing if its compression stroke or exhaust stroke is to turn the engine manually the direction its suppose to go (don't remember now) on the crank pulley and right before piston #1 is about to reach the top of its stroke (using a straw rising helps), cover the spark plug hole with your finger, you are suppose to feel a push on the skin of your finger, it ain't much but works for me..

Fun fact: the wagon still had innertube tires when i replaced them!! suprisingly still held air in them after 15years+ didn't know the exact age of them as date stamp on tires wern't required yet in the 90's guess something died in the back a long time ago, i ripped it all out including the plastic covers on the wheel wells, you could just poke your finger though the plastic, literally, it was toast... 94,000? 194,000? today i am at 3,905miles... still under warranty right? Jeco Leco ieco Clock? and some hideous aftermarket radio! replaced it with an OEM Subaru one from an 89 wagon at a junkyard with that weather station channel on it, whatever model that one is, don't know, just looked cool. Back seat with a For Sale sign?? that throws me off so much, either the guy had just purchased it and sent it to a mechanic which was unable to find parts for it down here in pre-internet buying times or was gonna put it up for sale after he fixed it.. Registration expired in 2002, interesting fact: Note the american flag below the registration and inspection, that comes from 9/11 when gas stations were handing those out and people sticking them on cars. a 1986 Subaru i still need to go back for as it has the Dual Range Manual tranny i've been looking for quite some time. at the same location where the yellow 79 wagon was at. probably has been sitting longer than the yellow one. --The most difficult thing in getting this vehicle back on the road were the front brake calipers with the E-brake mechanism, now those were interesting to find! those are all the pictures i still have of her on day 1, think there were a few more but oh well..

yes, seems that the sideways 4 spoke steering wheel was only available in 79? or 79 and only in the GL? don't know my facts on that one. also the clock is a different brand than most of the other pictures i've seen with the analog clock on old Subarus, don't know my facts on that one either.. few more pictures below of the day i got her..

i've noticed the GL/Loyale OEM keys are made out of softer metal that can just twist if you try to open a paint can with it, yes i know let me go slap myself for doing that to an old subaru key, but seems that Subaru knew about this and improved greatly on the legacy and impreza keys. -if it was an aftermarket key, don't know on the quality of those...

just realized theres nothing to compare to from old posts as the photo hosting has expired, heres one of the first pictures of it from september 2015 when i was rescuing it. Wagon was abandoned from october ish 2001-September 2015.

Probably a Russian AvtoVAZ LADA (i think thats how you spell it), those cars are pretty cool, they look like volvo 240's. except it reminds people of communism, still cool that they were imported in the 70's, although i thought it was only to Canada but some seem to have made it to the states, perhaps the 25year old rule import, but anyways rusted to hell like old Subaru's, seen only 1 running around in my life in my city.

Oil does work, extremely well actually, just messy, older subarus from the 80's leaked a lot of oil "naturally" so many of them did that, that there's a joke floating around saying that the Subaru came with the rust prevention option from the dealer. (By having the whole underside of the vehicle soaked in oil not purposely)

Cutting out and welding a new piece of metal is definitely the correct way of fixing it, I was just saying a quick and easy way since it's hidden away from sight rust

the absolute easiest thing that i do is buy some BBQ Grill paint that is actually made to stop rust/prevent it, as long as its in a spot that no one can see, sufficating the rust from oxygen will stop the rust as long as you paint behind and infront of it. done it so many times on my vehicles, but perhaps theres some other easier and cheaper way to stop it for a few years that someone else might know here...

so i've noticed not much is going on in the historic subaru section so ill fill it in with one of my old posts that i never completed, heres my Subaru GL Update like i promised, still on the road after 2 years that i rescued it.. -few things that don't belong on this car for those of you that can notice OEM period parts, ill just point them out right now--- >rear spoiler wing from an EA82 since finding one for an EA71 is impossible >the metal rubber bumpers that are mounted on the bumpers come from like a 1982 Lincoln Continental >removed the faded Wood Grain stripe across the roof rack and replaced it with a strip of flexible chrome >chromed the grill >chrome wheel rings around the wheels from an EA81 >the headlight that says 75 on it comes from a 1975 Toyota pickup at the junkyard since finding a circular Koito original non-halogen headlight on anything is impossible now. >rear Subaru emblem comes from a 1987 GL Wagon >hard to see but not all centercaps are exactly the same, some have the textured center >front plate comes from the early 80's when you bought your subaru new from the dealership >and ofcourse the white stripe across the side, although i think it was an option? Front corner light is cracked as its impossible to find one, just covered it with that film tape Sometimes it makes me nervous having the mudflaps on the vehicle, would be a very sad day if i ever lost one And the Wagon with the rest of the Subaru family, picture is alittle old so some things aren't current on the wagon. -----One last thing, in the 5 years of driving in San Antonio TX, i have still yet to see anything Subaru older than 1995, its pretty lonely down here.. (oldest subaru seen driving around was a green 1995 Subaru impreza wagon) thanks for reading! -Omar

what dave said, V-belts are alittle different from today's belts the good thing about V-belts is when they "warm up" by slipping around for a few seconds they will grab for the rest of the trip, thats usually the warning to either replace it or tighten it back up. also if you are going to replace the belts, if your A/C compressor is on the drivers side, good luck finding the belts just off the autoparts computer lol, you'll have to remove it, take it to the autoparts store and compare it to random belts till you find one that matches, seems that the only model they care about is the one with the compressor in the middle and alternator on the drivers side... edit: but being in alaska, i doubt most vehicles even have A/C lol

i had an issue on my 1989 wagon seatbelt not clicking in anymore a few years ago, went to the junkyard and got a pair of 91 Loyale seatbelts, (just the end part with the button), turns out they were not the same! just had to get the grinder and make a notch on it, i think the metal part of the seatbelt change shape over the years, when and by how much, im not sure, but just look at the ones you have (take a picture) and head to the junkyard and find the same one, if not, get one with the possibility of modifying it, i got lucky as i can grind metal off, but not attach metal to it on mine. theres a good example on my 79 wagon and my 80 brat not being the same seatbelts at all! completely different shape, quite interesting as they are the same color strap, same clicker, same engine, but just the mechanism inside changes.

i had an ea82 on a 1989 GL wagon with 314,000miles that continued to run even when the compression test showed between 38psi and 45psi, pretty funny how it still ran, burned about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or perhaps it was blow by since i think back in the day they had a recall about that and modified the rubber tubes going into the intake, anyways the ea82 is a good engine ignoring the fact that it has timing belts and the heads crack between the valves and "most" of the time the cracks are harmless. about 2 years ago i forgot to check the oil level when i was over 4,000miles in, not sure how long it ran without oil, good engine though i trust it.

i have an 83 GL Hatchback EA81 that needs a new carburator, it currently has a holly, but its beat up pretty badly, what would be a WEBBER replacement for this EA71 wagon and would the same exact one work for the EA81? not sure about the bolt patterns and sizes between these two engines..

actually, maybe i should have also mentioned i swapped over to points on the distributor as the little "computer box" that was attached with the ignition coil was out when i got it, but i replaced the points about 2 weeks ago and set it to .020in the thing is ill mess with everything on a car except when it comes to anything further past the head gaskets (inside engine block) and the carburator itself, but perhaps the carburator should be something i should overcome my fear of...

could not agree with this more, although not sure how different california or vermont inspection stations are from texas state inspections, but as a state inspector myself at jiffylube, there is so much corruption on them, you have no idea, thats probably why there will no longer be inpections at all starting in 2018 here. i'd recommend going to a gas station with a small garage in the back of it that does state inspections, buy some wipers from them or something, and if they do pass you, make sure to leave the change with them, (few bucks). next time you go in again, and trust me they will remember you, i remember all mine that tipped me afterwards so next time i was more lenient on their vehicles. although im still a state inspector, i am no longer working at a shop so... good luck! also in texas i can't see the reason you failed last time or even failed at all, it just looks like you've never gotten an inspection, yes it is illegal in texas to continue going to places to see who will pass you, but it just keeps costing you the inpection fee over and over again, till you pass, and theres no way of tracking that you have gone to multiple places.

Hello everyone, i've been gone for alittle while, been pretty busy from getting my life in order, new job, new house, people passing away and such and abandoning my projects for some time, well i guess im back again, 1. anyways my 1979 wagon seems to leak water from under the dashboard and im tired of covering the car everytime its going to rain, i guess water entering the cowl but im not too sure how its all designed after that? has the aftermarket dealer airconditioning option under the dash on the passenger side. theres always a huge puddle of water on the passenger side on the floor after it rains. 2. wagon still has the original 2 barrel hitachi carburator, was last rebuilt about 10 months ago, the mixer screw is all the way closed but i think its still getting too much fuel? it pukes black smoke like a diesel if i rev it some, has a fuel pressure regulator at 2 psi right now, flooring it when boarding the highway looks like a semi truck is getting on the highway and such, i mean amusing and fun non the less but theres some real nasty black smearing sulfur stuff that comes out of the exhaust, also the accelerator pedal seems to have a dead spot around 40percent to 45 percent of throttle with a load on it (the car) it just lags terribly, could be when the second barrel comes in, but im not sure whats going on or how to calibrate this, only when im accelerating slowly it does this. i've also maybe thought it could be 20,000 miles later perhaps its time to change the sparkplugs but not sure as i thought modern spark plugs were good for 80,000miles plus. 3. on cold days the charge light is on and the interior dashlights don't work even though the alternator is working perfectly fine, if the ebrake is on it shows half of the revs its suppose to be at but when the ebrake is removed the revs redline and just stay stuck at 6000rpm until the car warms up, once it warms up then it reads accurately (15-20minutes later) or smacking the top of the dashboard accelerates this process, then about 45 minutes later the tach just gives up and redlines again and stays there, kind of funny and its been doing this for about a year now, same pattern, perhaps theres some small electronic board somewhere? im not sure... thanks for reading my question, any help is appreciated.

well... before worrying about the fenders, first you didn't mention if you've been successful at locating peugeot wheels first. 13" stock tires are very limited, as in theres only a couple options of rubber you can get, so the ride isn't going to get much taller, nor the tires any bigger so you get what you get and you don't throw a fit. if you want to go bigger and get away from these donut tires you will have to either redrill for more studs to a more common lug pattern, manufacture and fit an adapter plate or find some 70's french peugeot rims that are 14" or 15" with the lug pattern 4x140, then people here can start telling you things with more accuracy about fender clearance.

no cracking windshields for me but i seem to always forget to put down the wipers after cleaning the car when raising the hood to check on the fluids, now the hood has missing chipped paint across the top, small and barely noticeable yeah but it sure makes me mad when i damage my own vehicle and its completely my fault when i could have avoided it easily..

only suggestion i know of is don't get a standard aftermarket radio, they are too long and woun't be flush with the rest of the dash, i don't know the measurements and such, one of my parts cars had an aftermarket radio with an extension of some sorts on the front so the sticking out woudn't look bad, im sure stereo shops have these as these radios slots are just standard measurements, but not the depth..

one of my parts cars had rectangular foglights in the grill, it was cut out by some previous owner though and rigged to work, i thought it was ugly and ridiculous, but now that i see a picture here very similar, wonder if whoever installed the ones on my parts car were trying to recreate the actual rare stock option as you see in this picture... im a believer that this grill in the picture is a true genuine Subaru rare part.

well bad news, the paint has 3 bubbles, and a bunch of tiny ones next to them, i guess not even Subarus are safe in south Texas :/ talk about poor design/rust protection on the body... sorry about the inconvenience dave.

i still use RTV, but i do give it about 15-20min to dry before applying, then taking off all the residue inside, outside not so important unless you want it to look pretty, honestly its up to you, and brand shoudn't matter much, as long as you use anaerobic sealant.