Subasaurus

how did you attach the roof rack on the roof? curious, hard to see in the pictures currently.

there's also another type of relays that doesn't have the spade terminals poking out of it colored already, instead it has numbers on the top or side of the relay, 86 and 85 are your low current, should click loudly if current is given to those 2 pins (literally negative and positive to it). 30 and 87 are your high current paths, high amperage comes in (+), and high amperage goes out (+).

that's it, that's the fuel tank plug, mine didn't have a rubber seal to it, it just seals. relays are simple as long as you use a 4 pin type. 2 are usually silver, and 2 are gold plated, i don't remember which is which but one of those pairs controls the low current switch, meaning one goes to ground, the other you'll need to find a switch hot but a hot that stays on while cranking. you can test for this with a multimeter and disconnecting the wire that activates the solenoid to your starter so you don't wear that part out, and have someone "crank" with the key while you search for a hot, i don't remember what i grabbed onto but i don't recommend the ignition coil circuit. the other 2 pins are the high amperage load switch, you run a FUSED hot from the battery with fresh wire, connect that to the high load side of the relay, connect another wire to the last remaining port on the relay which would be the corresponding high load pair, route it around the back of the engine against the firewall and connect it to your fuel pump. the hardest thing out of all this is finding a switched hot with the ignition key on and cranking.

I'm drooling all over that digi dash! never have had the opportunity to see a working one yet, always makes me smile when I see one.

i wouldn't weld it if it was me, there's brats to be found at the junkyards, there's just not many, owning a first gen Subaru is literally a waiting game for parts. try installing one of those emergency rubber oil drain plugs instead for the time being, they grab on from the inside and seal by pressing a rubber plug against it, don't remember the name of them but it's the "oh crap" plug after stripping an OS plug (oversize drain plug). can't remember how big that hole is though, been like 6 years since i've drained my tank. tanks that don't have rust holes are hard to find, plus it's a neat feature you don't see on cars anymore due to safety, and living up north, i would leave the unique feature to drain water out. have you tried buying a thread pitch gauge and measuring the hole size with a micrometer or a bolt itself with the wrong pitch and go to your local hardware store to compare and such?

also my fuel pump is located where the stock one would have mounted at, I bent the 2 studs sticking out apart from each other just a tad and it fit right in. i also recommend checking voltage at the pump first, both my first gen subaru's i've had have had 1-3 volts at the end of the wire, never understood why but i ran a new power source and wires and on a relay with key on, just make sure your power source doesn't turn off when cranking lol.

i just use the crappy Mr. Gasket fuel pump, but they always guaranteed go out every year and a half if you use the vehicle 3-4 times a week. i was able to get 2+years out of mine it by purchasing the 5-7psi for domestic vehicles, and also installing an adjustable regulator and dropped the pressure to 2.5psi. it's suppose to be 3-5psi. theres a fuel pump for 3-5 psi by mr gasket fuel pump but it seems to not last as long as the higher psi one, just keep in mind the fuel pump is overpriced for what it is ($70) and the regulator is too ($30).

whoops, I confused myself! lol, sorry.

probably the lowest mileage 1984 Subaru out there in the wild in that kind of shape combination, ofcourse, Subaru has their own collection but those aren't for sale nor are they out in the wild. if i was you, i would be asking 3,800 and come down as low as 3,500. my brat has 68,000 original miles currently but it isn't in that great of shape since it was a farm vehicle and abandoned from 1994-2016, the interior needs help and so does the body but what the heck, oh well. so ask for the higher price of 2,500-4,000 range, it really is worth it, even if it's just a 2WD. forgot to mention, don't get desperate, the longer you have it posted for sale, the more forums your car will appear on, trust me, word always spreads will classic Subaru's, especially in that kind of shape.

i can drive in rush hour traffic at a maximum of 105F with a 160F thermostat, if it's any hotter outside, i start overheating (with electric fans going) but it sucks in dead winter when it gets to 25-30 degrees, the brat coughs for about 10-15min, by the time it fully warms up, i'm already where i need to be lol. also keep in mind, i removed the mechanical useless fan and installed 2 electric fans on a switch to survive the summer heat here.

hope this helps lol.

second gen tanks don't have a drain bolt, carbs are available on ebay for it, aftermarket ofcourse, unsure about the dimensions of the hole though where it connect to the manifold. i think the third eye emblem is extremely specific, never seen one in person but i think i recall reading that somewhere a while ago, when you find one, make sure it fits before purchasing. i don't understand the 38 hour road trip though, i barely trust my Honda Oddysey to do that, i can't imagine a brat, do you need to go get the brat or are you going in the brat?

did the second gen brat ever come with the third eye? i thought it was only 2dr hatchbacks and it was an add on option only. did someone convert the brat?

you'll need to find a reliable electric fuel pump for carbs (low psi) i think it's 2-5psi, run new fuel lines and clean the tank out which sounds like you're about to, there's a drain plug on the bottom of the tank btw. check for leaks where the sending unit installs from the side of the tank. what carb does it currently have? does it have a big blue round/oval metal air filter over the carburetor? glass sight on the carb? the original was a Hitachi. things to hope you don't need on the brat that are impossible to find, the front brake calipers and disks (rotors), blinker system on the steering column, oil pump, radiator, and tail lights, passengers go for $140-$250, and drivers go for anywhere between $80-$150, that's used. take a few pictures, it would help a lot to see what you're up against,

i see about 1 SVX per 2 years at the junkyard, so the odds are much better at finding parts than an XT, i've only ever seen 1 XT on the road EVER, never been up close to one personally if that says anything.

that's what it was, thanks for the correction!

if i remember correctly, oil pump and waterpump are the non existant parts on a XT6.

there's EA71's that don't have the starter on the top?

try pinching all your fuse terminals on the fuse box to make better contact, also clean them out with a small tooth brush looking wire brush, and reinstall your fuses, sounds like you got a bad connection issue. also make sure your fuses don't spin around, where the metal endcaps unglue from the glass cylinder, if they do, replace the fuse.

try going to a radio repair shop, hard to find but they do still exist, i have one in my city. should cost somewhere between $35-$65 (if no radio repair stores exist in your city, look for someone that knows how to repair gauge clusters on vehicles, they will know how to repair radio's but may not advertise it) gen 1 radio's are quite expensive for what they are, here's one on ebay currently but it's a very early one with only AM- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-CLARION-X100-SUBARU-DATSUN-RADIO-RF-1421/392833347813?hash=item5b76b130e5:g:CoIAAOSwUQle4TOJ next time, try a FM transmitter if your gen 1 radio is a hybrid of both AM and FM, where you tune to the station you preset already, they're $5 at 5 Below, or you can get a better quality one at walmart for like $10. Auxiliary quality isn't really needed with an original Clarion Subaru radio, sounds like a turd anyways so might as well transmit it through FM waves. only thing you'll need is an auxiliary jack on your Phone/Ipod.

post pictures!

i went with a 160 degree, that's just what worked best for me, remember you have options if any issues arise.

that's really cool you have 2!

nice find! unsure if it works 100% but looks to be correct...

i would just run a new wire to it, if i remember correctly, that wire is yellow the one you are talking about, i was getting 7v on mine, made no sense.