Subasaurus

becareful to not drill any deeper, if i remember correctly in another thread, something flows literally right behind those holes, if you have one of those drill bits that has that extra point on the end of it, make sure to compensate for that length also. i've broken the bolts on the oil pump before but never stripped the block threads, good luck!

From flawless and perfect condition status to my beater that i will not care if i get a shopping cart ding or if i back up into a pole. although it may seem perfect, its far from that now underneath since i was the one that did all the pounding and pulling i know where all the flaws are, but to be honest it actually came out better than i thought it would. hope you guys found this entertaining in a way back on the street the subie goes, and a daily driver once again. 20,000lb of pulling force on the winch, was struggling alot. went through 7 bolts in total, from grade 5 ones to grade 8. even 20,000 pounds of force was not enough, the heat did the rest of the work at the same time. Costs of damage: $25 oil change due to only a punctured oil filter and a whole bunch of free labor (me) and parts from the donor vehicle. Profit: $1,331 Guess this is the end of this thread..

update--- so the case is now closed, i ended up getting $1,356 for the wagon, (yes they totaled it) would have gotten $1,500 if i gave them the car, ridiculous, $150 for the vehicle, anyways, i would have gotten about $200 more if i didn't get rear ended a year ago (that showed up that the vehicle had been totaled once before) depreciation they claim because i didn't take the car to get repaired by a certified whatever, so they still assume things are tweaked underneath (which are not) but you get what you get... ill post pictures later of how things are going with the rebuild.

does the transistor box also send the signals to the tachometer? i have a feeling it does? since some mornings the gauge doesn't work until something "warms up" for about 5minutes and then magically the background green lighting in the dash cluster lights up and the gauge comes to life. or advice on downgrading and going fully mechanical and getting rid of the electric stuff? where could i find an early distributor with the point thing inside? 1978 and before i think, don't know too much about them.. but what do i need in order for this to work?.

when checking the fuses, ohm them out, its a pain i know but this way you can surely know its not the fuses and move on to the next steps to diagnosing your problem. i've had a blown fuse hide on me before, blown on the corner of the fuse where you can't see it until you open it up.

that would be the voltage regulator, its next to the transistor box, keeps voltage at 14volts instead of the 17volts that the alternator is capable of, thats not it :/ thanks for the help though.. and i guess i forgot to note also, i've checked all the bus fuses under the dash that are above the hood latch pull cable and ohmed them all out and everything checked out fine..

Coming from a 1979 GL 1600 4WD Wagon, Starting from the beginning--- Car ran absolutely great and flawless for the first 25 minutes then it all went to hell, from it backfireing, to only running on 1 piston, to the engine not allowing me to go any lower than 2,500rpm because if i did i would not recover the rpm's and it would leave me in the middle of the street, wait 5 minutes for something to "cool" and off i went again with the crappiest sounding vehicle there was. (note: vehicle was parked since 2002-2015 and it always did this to me every single time since when it first started up) i've replaced the cables, ignition coil, spark plugs, cap and rotor, and a remanufactured distributor with no change to absolutely anything, this morning it was only running on one piston, so much for waiting 25 minutes when it did it on start up. i've also put a timing light on the cables including the main one that comes from the ignition coil and the timing light comes on and off about once every 3-5 seconds which lead me to believe that it has weak spark, well the only things remaining that are electrical are the Transistor IGN Box and the magnetic sensor in the distributor. This is the Electronic Box that i cannot find anywhere for sale, tried online, tried all the junkyards from regular ones to full service ones and no one had a clue... anyone know where to get one? if this is even the problem. This is what the internals look like. This is off of a 1978 Toyota Corrolla that i tried rigging up to my wagon due to the lack of parts.. its a NipponDenso, it had the same setup, 5 wires, one was the body ground, another was the negative to the coil, positive to the coil, and the other 2 were to the sensor in the distributor. Was not successful with the NipponDenso setup so i went to plan B and used an igniter from a 1985 Honda, well that didn't work either.. after putting everything back together like how it was this morning, now the tachometer and the chrg (charge), Brake, and oil light no longer work, and they don't come on for the first 2 seconds like they used to, so i think i might of made things worse, oh and theres no longer spark, not even to that 1 piston now... i really am in the dark on this one, and no one in real life is even capable of helping me with such an obsolete rare vehicle, need your help badly... thanks alot!! -Omar. ---Forgot to Mention, my wagon has the Hitachi setup.

and alittle wireing to do but really simple. i've been searching for the past 2 years for a DL for the quad headlights but the only thing that keeps appearing at junkyards are GL's and GL-10's, seems that the DL's all died a while ago and the others are now dying, including my 89 thats now crashed and totaled, so much for searching...

where do you find axles? i was thinking when mine go out to just have them remanufactured locally...

My 89 GL's A/C kicks on for 1-2 seconds when i push the bilev or vent button, then turns off on its own even though those options have nothing to do with air conditioning.. oh you pushed a button meaning you want A/C, 80's computing currently processing, oh crap we screwed up turn the compressor off!

thats a really good and cool find!!

>need dashboard ashtray, >both rear door plastic handles >those plastic things that go in the interior of the door that go in the inside (behind) of the pull handle, its held on only by 1 phillips on each one, need all 4. >if theres a 5inch (the model with 4 headlights) and they say Koito (the ones that came original to the car), i need 1 low/high beam and 2 highbeam circular headlights (3 sealed glass headlights total) thanks!! -Omar

found the issue! so apparently something in the throttle in the carb freed up and screwed all my calibrations up, after timing it again at 8degrees (ofcourse it was more work just finding the marks) and retuning the mixture screw to 1/2 turn and its back running perfectly, the pedal doesn't get stuck anymore at over 70% .... so something unstuck since it was sitting for so long but im not complaining idles so much better now after whatever unstuck. thanks moosens for the tips.

no worries it has paper plates now.. although i spoke too soon, now the car wount stay running... so the car was dying on me and turns out it was the fuel pump so changed that and i have tested it and fills a cup in about 10seconds so im sure thats more than enough, one detail that interests me is the accelerator used to get stuck if i pushed it down more than 70% so thats all that i ever used it, between 0-70, any more than that and the engine would just get stuck in 5,000rpm or more untill i shut it off wait 2 seconds and it would idle again, never could figure out what was getting stuck, it wasn't the pedal or cable. now that i have full range of the pedal (mysteriously) the car is running like crap, after driving it like that for 10minutes, now the distributor timing has to be all the way to the right (after i think) just to have some power, after 5minutes of that now the pedal has to be all the way to the floor and timing all the way bottomed out just for the car to idle at 800rpm. the car would back fire ALOT when it was running like crap. i've checked the diaphram next to the distributor and it seems good (blew through the vacuum hose and the piece inside moved counterclockwise so thats not broken) any ideas? :/ thanks.

really does give me hope to see that someone thats had it worse than me has been able to fix it at home, im definetly buying it back from insurance now.

that crash looks very similar to mine but about 40% less, very interesting, thanks for the pictures I75eya!

just an update, found a place that got me the title at a price of $520. not completely the right way but if the owner hasn't looked for his car in the past 14years, why will he return now plus before he gets to me, he has to get through the mechanic which im sure after 90days its the mechanics property anyways. anyways thanks for all the help guys, i apreciate it. ill be posting a couple of pictures of the wagon cleaned up and working in a bit.

will do, thanks for the suggestion..

just wanted to share more photos, now that i can actually see what exactly happened. Heres the frame damage, i have no idea how im going to fix that, if i can manage to straighten that out, i think i can rebuild the vehicle. this is pretty much the worst of it all, since i have parts cars that i can fix the rest with. The engine will be removed and replaced with another or rebuilt since compression on it was pretty low already (115psi). Either the oil filter was punctured or the bolts that hold the oil pump stripped out because of the leverage with the oil filter on impact. shows you how much it was squished. the foglight bracket used to be halfway from the vehicle and the end of the bumper, now its tucked underneath side by side comparison with my parts car, im thinking of maybe building on the blue one if i can't fix the damages. but i woun't know untill i dig in but i can't untill insurance tells me whats going to happen.

im either going to get it repaired or buy another (if i can even find one) and use it as parts which i know everything was perfect on it so i will be buying it back from insurance if i can't get them to pay for the damages. im really hoping for $3,200 atleast, even though if wasn't for sale, my price on it would have been around $3,500 due to the flawless condition that it was in.

im not at fault, at all, going 35mph and the old 65year old lady that barely walks with a cane stupidly pulled out of a driveway on a main road like 30 feet infront of me, yeah thats enough time to stop.. anyways do you think insurance will fix it if i make them or just total it out no matter what? crankshaft is whacking the radiator (or fan), powersteering fluid is spraying everywhere, A/C radiator is smashed, i have no idea where all the oil is comming from but in about 10 seconds it dumped all 4 quarts of it on the floor. sad sad day.... was the only 3rd gen driving around in my city, i've never seen another the 2 years of driving it. being pulled home the steering wheel is 90 degrees to the right so i guess the A arm is bent also. i don't know what else is wrong with it but ill take a look tomorrow morning and post pictures. to be honest, the car actually did amazing, i hit that car HARD, i will definetly be buying another Subaru Tank in the near future if that comes to the case. here she is, not a single spot of rust anywhere, flawless everything, always fixed it the day that something was wrong, waxed it once a week. wish it would have been a POS before the accident. the Subies blood all over the floor heres the other car

agree with Datsunrides, sorry about the issue but the only solution you really have would be to make the breather hoses longer and make a "catch canister" which would never catch anything because by making it longer the oil can't get there anymore.. a member here by the name- Loyale 2.7 Turbo (Jeszek) wrote a whole thread about it, althought it was on a third gen Leone, but the concept is the same. i begin to have issues with oil entering into the intake at around 110psi of compression on a third gen, first gen i have no idea where it would be at for it to introduce oil but im sure its close. another solution which is alittle extreme would be to move the air filter to the entrance of the intake (before the breather hoses) like third gens have them, this would solve the oil issue but will not solve your compression issue. btw nice to know theres another person with a first gen!

yes definetly wait, and who knows, perhaps Wix will rebuild your engine for free if you tell them it damaged your engine??

faulty WIX filter you say? i better change brands on my next oil change...

if only one existed still in that condition back there, vehicle in the back is between 1977-1979, and its a GL.