Subasaurus

im thinking the cable is jammed.. check to see if you can open the gas tank with a flat head screwdriver, not on the door itself but on the little knob that comes out to hold the door closed.

everytime i go to the junkyard and see an old subaru, i take the door chime with me, $3 they charge for one which is great, i currently have 4spares in a box lol, i've added it to every vehicle i own, from a 79 to a 1993 impreza, even though they never came with them.

thanks grossgary for clearing that up.

when i don't want mine to chime i wiggle the key in the ignition and it stops, funny, but i do love the ding ding.... ding ding.... ding ding. my friends always ask is that the sound this car makes when the door is open? also if you remount the little box and actually level it out, you can make it louder or make the first ding louder then the second or the second ding louder than the first, anyways i got mine to where i like it and if i am working on my car and my door has to be open, i wiggle the key and it stops, guess my ignition switch has play somewhere but im not complaining.

lack of replacement anything, whats up with that anyways.. does anybody know why?

just thought of another.. gas tank was on the drivers side (left side) in the 70's but then moved it over to the passenger in the 80's?? makes no sense to me.

Just a fun little thread i thought of, ill start, this applies to any Old Generation Subaru Vehicle. > i hate how Subaru didn't put more thought into the EA82 oil pan, if your ever going to replace the oil pan gasket, you gotta lift the engine up about 4" inches to have access to the rear bolts and you have to remove 1 motor mount in order for the oil pan to come out. > i hate how the mirrors begin to "rust" even the interior rear view mirror thats not out in the elements. > i hate that were all stuck with the 4x140 bolt pattern, unless you adapt something or upgrade. > i hate that the small gauges are inaccurate (oil psi especially)

where did you get the front plate? i have one similar but with the old logo next to it and am currently looking for another.

> how much for the interior plastic cups that go in the door handles that is used to open the door from the inside (both) > the regulator box above the coil and transistor box thats also next to the coil. > i see 1 wheel cap on the rims (front passenger one) if theres more on the other side, ill buy the rest. why not lugs also, don't have any extras, incase i loose one some day. > does it have the factory radio in it? prefferably the AM/FM one and the analog clock, if it still has it. thanks -Omar

ask them that you will be willing to pay for shipping from another state for the part, when they look for a part (O'reilly's and Autozone) if the HUB distribution center that belongs to that store doesn't have it, then they just don't have it, unless its shipped from another state but the shipping is on you, they don't advertise this because a competitor might have it at the same price but it will look like NAPA (where you go for your parts) is more expensive once they add up the UPS shipping and the cost of the part and perhaps later in the future you will never go there again because they "ripped you off". so they would rather just tell you they can't order the part. im not sure how NAPA works but thats how Autozone and O'reilly's does it.

remove heli coils and install new ones, woudn't recommend going larger (my opinion) if you are, becareful to not drill any deeper, you could hit something. and as its been previously stated, gotta make the waterpump holes bigger also, and to any future waterpump. but before anything at all, if you have a tap and die kit, try recovering the threads and see if it grabs enough, if not then go to plan B (replace helicoils) or C (drill and tap a new thread).

got a question i've been wondering for a while, when you replace the head gaskets on that Subaru engine (EJ25 i think) could it still fail due to the cooling design of the engine or once you replace the OEM head gaskets you're good to go just like any other Subaru engine? just incase i buy a late 90s Subaru someday.. thanks.

-bump- im still searching for a 1977, 1978, 1979 Subaru Wagon, any color, any condition (literally), any location in the United States, i will travel to you for the title and money exchange of course, title in Salvage or Clean Condition Wanted. Plus the 2 metal vins. i will post another comment below this one once i find one, if this is the last comment (by me), im still searching! thanks. update: im still searching, not looking for a pristine or complete Subaru

you can actually see the "gap" already, and its just going to keep growing, lots of 1996-2001 vehicles are gone. but when you get a new aftermarket gauge to test wether if its the pump or the gauge, theres 2 types, theres the one with the long skinny tube that literally carries oil to the gauge ($15) and if that breaks... well lets just say you woun't like it, digital ones like the one in your Subaru are a bit more ($30) but i think its worth it. i've heard that you can actually rent a gauge to screw in on the pump itself at autozone, obviously you're going to have to be upside down to see what its measuring, but it'll atleast tell you that the pump is good.

the most difficult part is getting the cluster back in without the cable disconnecting (well for me)... sure looks like a disaster for someone that doesn't know about vehicles when you remove that instrument cluster.

found the issue with the alternator, the regulator seems to be shorting, time to buy a new one. thanks for the help naru.

i have an 89 GL that was cracking also, stole one from a junk yard vehicle, fixed that issue. but you might want to say what generation your vehicle is? Update: you have an 86 XT. don't know much about the seal/trim, someone here can probably answer.

just an update, turns out, ignition key switch is working perfectly, and theres 2 wires comming out from the main harness, 1 wire powers the fuel gauge meter in the dash and the other is suppose to deliver 12 volts for the coil, well instead it delivers sparks of horror. theres a short on that wire, well after running a new wire thats fused and replacing the coil with a new one ($13) finally the vehicle is running again, now the charge light is on. no problem i just disconnected a battery terminal to see if its the alternator, well sure enough i thought it was, after installing another alternator, sparks came out while trying to connect the main + wire to the alternator. so now that wire has a short. does anybody know if anything splices power on that alternator wire and where the other end of it is? can't find anything in the book about it. i just want to run a new wire and discontinue that one. and your colors are right naru, whoever owned my vehicle before me really screwed things up, yellow is -, and black is +, and the noise suppressor capacitor is suppose to be on the -, not + lol ridiculous, i have no idea how it was even running before, anyways i also found one of the wires coming out of the key ignition switch is cut, after figuring out individually what each wire does, i fixed that issue.

So i was unable to find this ballast resistor.. because the wiring harness goes through the firewall (from the top of the passenger side in the corner behind the strut tower) and unless its between the dashboard and the inside firewall... i can't find it/don't have one. after looking through my 1600 Subaru book, i found this... is the thing they call a "resistor" the Ballast Resistor?? because apparently the 4WD does not have one (mine). im starting to think i have 2 issues, either the magnetic sensor inside the distributor went out or the coil pack went out, or its the ignition key switch that went out.. is this possible? i've never had the key switch go out on me before on any of my cars, does it just stop working or sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't? because so far, does not matter how many times i go foward and back, it never reads any voltage on the other side of the harness that goes on the coilpack. I guess tomorrow im jumping the ignition key switch, see what that does and see if power comes out of the other side.

i don't know what you meant by theres a ballast resistor between the coil and module and if its open or not. im not even sure how it looks like? and how would i jump power the correct way so the coil could get the correct voltage to see if the problem is a melted wire or plug and so i could test the module output power to see if its pulsing? perhaps a picture will help? i don't know. [ I HAVE DELETED THE PICTURE] DUE TO THE PREVIOUS OWNER 15 YEARS AGO NOT UNDERSTANDING + AND - DIFFERENCES. DON'T WANT TO SPREAD INCORRECT AND FALSE INFORMATION. Where is the other end of those 2 wires coming out of the main harness that go to the ignition coil?

im alittle confused, i got no spark, after checking voltages, i have nothing on the + wire that comes from the main harness to the ignition coil, i already checked all the fuses and even ohmed out all of them to make sure and still nothing when i turn the key to "ON".. i forcefully jumped power to the coil and still no spark when i crank on it? what does the transistor box next to the coil do??? i see theres 5wires going to it, 2 are to some electro magnetic sensor in the distributor, 1 is - to the coil, 1 + to the coil and 1 is ground to the vehicle body, but that shouldn't matter because its not even getting power at all to it.. Also i just noticed that it no longer tells me what my fuel level is when the key is on "ON", used to tell me until this morning when it refused to start, it started up just fine last night, it does tell me my fuel level when i forcefully jump power to the coil, but still no spark? thanks..

thanks,Even old Subaru's that have never seen the snow still rust in a dry and hot climate, funny... but its all repairable and will repair it sometime in the future.

thanks for clearing that up Leeroy, so only a 1977, 1978, 1979 Wagon, any color with a salvaged or clean title needed in any condition, literally.

can't, he has to hire an auctioneer (at my cost ofcourse) and i have to compete with other bidders which will probably go for $600ish, or more, who knows, but thats how its done in Texas, if i try to do it myself and get a title, they will attempt to call, mail and if no response/claim in 3 months, then i guess the vehicle is mine (after fees and the DMV's time) BUT the DMV will NOT accept any applications on a vehicle without a title valued below $4,000. so even if i get an appraiser to value my vehicle incorrectly, imagine the amount of taxes the title registration will cost me on a vehicle valued over $4,000. so my best bet will be to ask here for a parts car (somewhere between 77-79, or lower, or whenever the wagon became available without too many changes) if im unsuccessful and one on craigslist has not appeared in a couple weeks, then i will travel to another state.

perhaps, but don't you have to be a resident at that state or have a mailbox? but anyways before i go that route i just want to see if anyone is willing to sell me their parts car, and if they want it back then they can have it back for more parts. and i didn't know all GL's had tachs.. but the firewall vin doesn't worry me, i could either modify it or not worry about it at all since they never seem to check any cars that i've ever registered.